LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 

ROBERT  B.CRIDLAND 


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THIS    BOOK     IS    DEDICATED 
BY      THE       AUTHOR      TO 

3lnHr|ih  ilrrhau 

EMINENT    HORTICULIURIST 
ADVISER    AND    FRIEND 


JOSEPH     MEEHAN 


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Practical  Landscape 
Gardening 

THE  IMPORTANCE  OF  CAREFUL  PLANNING 
LOCATING  THE  HOUSE— ARRANGEMENT 
OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES— CONSTRUCTION 
OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES— LAWNS  AND 
TERRACES— HOW  TO  PLANT  A  PROPERTY 
LAYING  OUT  A  FLOWER  GARDEN— ARCHI- 
TECTURAL FEATURES  OF  THE  GARDEN 
ROSE  GARDENS  AND  HARDY  BORDERS 
WILD  GARDENS  AND  ROCK  GARDENS 
PLANTING     PLANS     AND     PLANTING    LISTS 

BY 

Robert  B.  Cridland 


^: 


New  York 

A.  T.  De  La  Mare  Printing  and  Publishing  Co.  Ltd. 

1916 


Hillliililllllllilllllliill 


Mt 


Copyright,  1916,  by 
A.  T.  De  La  Mare  Printing  and  Publishing  Co.  Ltd 


All  rights  reserved 


FOREWORD 


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This  book  is  the  outcome  of  a  series  of 
articles  on  Landscape  Gardening  which 
appeared  periodical!}'  in  The  Florists' 
Exchange.  At  the  suggestion  of  the 
pubHsher  these  articles  have  been  aug- 
mented, new  subjects  added,  and  the 
whole  more  thoroughly  illustrated  than 
was  possible  in  the  limited  space  of  a 
magazine  treatise. 

The  book  is  designed  to  appeal,  in 
particular,  to  that  large  body  of  sub- 
urban home  owners  who  have  moderate 
sized  properties  susceptible  of  artistic 
arrangement  and  beautification. 

It  is  not  possible  for  the  majority  of 
men  and  women  to  give  a  sufTicient  amount  of  time  to  the 
study  of  design,  horticulture  and  gardening,  in  order  to  treat 
their  individual  properties  in  a  practical  and  artistic  manner, 
and  although  nearly  every  one  possesses  the  sense  of  taste  to 
the  extent  of  appreciating  the  difference  between  that  which 
is  pleasing  and  that  which  is  crude  or  grotesque  in  the  com- 
pleted subject,  very  few  have  the  time,  imagination  and 
constructive  power  necessary  to  formulate  a  design  which  will 
represent  fully  the  capabilities  of  their  own  grounds,  whether  it 
be  a  small  plot  or  an  estate  of  some  acres. 

To  assist  all  who  are  interested  in  the  artistic  development 
of  their  home  surroundings  it  has  been  the  author's  aim  in  this 
book  to  set  forth,  in  a  clear  and  logical  way,  the  basic  principles 
which  will  bring  about  the  most  desirable  environment,  from 
a  gardening  standpoint,  of  the  moderate  sized  city  lot  or  the 
suburban  estate,  however  limited  that  may  be. 


382863 


4  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDEXIXG 

The  text  has  been  made  as  brief  as  possible  to  give  more  space 
than  usual  to  photographic  illustrations,  sketches  and  plans, 
so  that  each  subject  treated  may  be  more  readily  understood 
and  applied. 

Long  lists  of  trees,  shrubs,  and  flowers  have  been  omitted, 
except  in  those  instances  where  planting  plans  are  shown, 
accompanied  by  planting  keys.  In  preparing  these  planting 
keys  the  type  of  plant  necessary  to  secure  the  best  eff"ect  has 
been  considered,  rather  than  individual  varieties,  and  these 
keys  are  therefore  subject  to  modification  so  as  to  suit  existing 
conditions. 

While  the  initial  intention  of  the  articles  was  to  assist  those 
engaged  in  gardening  as  a  business,  it  is  the  desire  of  the  author 
that  all  who  take  pleasure  in  the  art  of  gardening  may  find  in 
this  book  some  additional  incentive  to  attain  that  which  is 
beautiful  in  landscape  design. 

I  wish  to  gratefully  acknowledge  the  valuable  assistance 
rendered  by  Mr.  Stanley  V.  Wilcox  and  Mr.  A.  T.  De  La  Mare 
in  the  arrangement  of  this  book. 

Robert  B.  Cridland. 
Philadelphia,  May  9,  19 16. 


CONTENTS 

{For    Classified   Index   See   Pages  265  266) 

CHAPTER  I 

Importance  of  Careful  Planning 

Greater  Enjoyment  of  Our  Surroundings — Expression  of  Taste  and 
PersonalitN — Enjoyment  of  Others — Uplift  to  the  Community — Economy 
of  Execution — The  Plan — -The  Grading  Plan — The   Planting  Plan. 

CHAPTER  H 
Locating  the  House — Exposure 

CHAPTER  HI 
Arrangement  of  Walks,  Drives  and  Entrances 

CHAPTER  IV 

Construction  of  Walks  and  Drives 

Cement  Walks — Macadam  Walks — Red  Gravel  Walks — Flagstone 
Walks— Brick  Walks— Stepping  Stone  Walks— Terrace  Walks— Dutch  Tile 
Walks — Driveways  of  Cement — Waterbound  Macadam — Bituminous  Roads — 
Cement  Surfacing — Cement  Approaches — Gutters — Cement  Gutters — Rubble 
Gutters — Brick  Gutters — Sod  Gutters — Care  of  Sod  Gutters — Cratch  Basins^ 
Gratings — Connecting  Catch  Basins  with  Drainage  Lines. 

CHAPTER  V 

Lawns:     Grading-,  Construction  and  Upkeep 

Preliminary  Preparations — Lawns  Ascending  from  Highways — Lawns 
Descending  from  Highways — Sub-Grade — Underdrainage — Lawn  Grading — 
Larger  Areas — House  Below  Pavement  Grade — Terraces — Lawn  Making- 
Sodding — Seeding — Grass  Seeds. 

CHAPTER  VI 

Ornamental  Planting  of  Trees  and  Shrubs 

The  Background  for  the  House — Framing  the  House — Trees  for  Framing 
the  House — Base  Plantings — What  to  Avoid  in  Base  Plantings — Plants  for 
Base  Plantings  (Shrubs) — Plants  for  Base  Plantings  (Broad-leaved  Ever- 
greens)— Unity  in  Lawn  Plantings — Planting  for  Detail — Avoid  Straight 
Lines — Avoid  Rows  of  Trees  Along  Curved  Driveways — Lines  of  Trees  for 
Straight  Driveways — Specimen  Lawn  Trees — Lawn  Groupings — Planting 
in  Lawn  Depressions — Planting  in  Valleys — Boundary  Plantings — Variety 
in  Border  Plantings — Edging  the  Border  Plantings — Evergreens  in  Border 
Plantings — Specimen  Trees  in  Front  of  Border  Plantings — Avoid  ( )dd  Shaped 
Beds  in  Lawn  Center — Ornamental  Planting  on  the  F"arm — Summary — 
Tree  Planting — Pruning — Tree  Planting  with  Dynamite — Moving  Large 
Trees — Root  Pruning — Care  of  Trees  and  Shrubs — Insect  Pests. 


6  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

CHAPTER  VII 
The  Flower  Garden 

Classification  of  Gardens — Garden  Dimensions  and  Design — Garden 
Entrance — Garden  Background — Garden  Enclosures — Height  of  Garden 
Enclosures — Garden  Walls — Gray  Sandstone  Walls — Coping — Brick  Walls — 
The  Stucco  Wall — Dry  Stone  Walls — Hedges — Retaining  Walls — Garden 
Steps— Piers— Walks  and  Beds— Width  of  Walks— Materials  for  Walks— Turf 
Walks — Brick  Walks — Red  Gravel — Stepping  Stones — Flagstones — Slate — 
Tanbark — Borders — Garden  Beds,  v'V^idth — Preparing  Garden  Beds — Humus — 
Floral  Treatment — Bulbs — Annuals — Hardy  Shrubs — Evergreens — Treatment 
of  Gardens  Constructed  on  More  than  One  Level — Planting  Around  Garden 
Enclosures — Water  in  the  Garden. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

Architectural  Features  of  the  Garden 

Sundials — Bird  Baths — Fountains  and  Pools — Depth — Construction — 
Pool  Coping — Water  Supply  and  Drainage — Garden  Pools  with  Fountain 
Heads — Planting  Near  Garden  Pools — Plants  in  the  Pool — The  Plants — 
Fish — Swimming  Pools — Water  Supply — Garden  Seats — Garden  Houses — 
Pergolas — Floors — Color  of  Wooden  Garden  Features. 


CHAPTER  IX 

Hardy  Borders  and  Rose  Gardens 

Perennial  Borders — Location  of  Hardy  Borders — Avoid  Borders  Next  to 
a  Hedge — Turf  Edge  for  Beds — Borders  Along  a  Fence — Borders  in  the 
Vegetable  Garden — Width  of  Borders — Preparation  of  Beds — Time  to 
Plant — Summer  Care — Arrangement  of  Plants  in  Hardy  Borders — Border 
Beds  Should  not  be  Graduated  Evenly  as  to  Height — Back  ground  for  Borders — 
Rose  Chains  in  Perennial  Borders — Arches  Over  Walks — Planting  in  Clumps- 
Bulbs  and  Tubers— Spring  Bulbs — Summer  Flowering  Bulbs — Autumn 
Bulbs — -Annuals  in  the  Borders — Rose  Gardens — Rose  Garden  Designs — 
Position — Beds — Preparation  of  Beds — Planting  and  Care — Varieties — 
Climbing  Roses. 

CHAPTER  X 

Wild  Gardens 

The  Wild  Garden  as  an  Isolated  Feature — Walks — Beds — Planting  in 
the  Wild  Garden — Flowers  in  the  Wild  Garden — Rock  Gardens — Garden 
Locations — Placing  of  Rocks— Soil — Arrangement  of  Plants — Moisture 
Important — Garden  Steps  with  Pockets  for  Plants — Time  of  Planting — 
Shrubs  in  Rock  Gardens — Evergreens  in  the  Rock  Garden — The  Heathers. 

CHAPTER  XI 

Planting  Plans  and  Planting  Keys 
Glossary  of  Technical  Terms 


ILLUSTRATIONS  AND  PLANS 

Approach,  Construction  of  a  Cement 59 

Approaches.     See  Entrance  Arrangements. 

Ash,  American.     Fraxinus  americana 97 

Back  Yard  Planting 209 

Base  Plantings 86,  87,  88,  89 

Birch,  White  (Betula  alba  laciniata  pendula) 100 

Bird  Bath,  The 174 

Border  and  Boundary  Plantings.  .92,  94,  95,  103,  104,  105,  107,  108,  110,  196, 

199,  200,  201,  202,  203,  206,  207,  208,  212 

Brick  Garden  Wall 141 

Brick  Walks 53,  54 

Catch  Basins 63 

Cedar,  Deodara  (Cedrus  Deodara) 98 

Cedrela,  The  (Cedrela  sinensis) 83 

Cement  Walks,  Construction  of 49,  50 

Chrysanthemums,  Hardy,  in  a  Border  Along  the  Wall 199 

Construction  Details  of  the  Garden.     See  Garden  Construction. 
Construction  of  Lawns.     See  Lawn  Grading. 

Dogwood,  Pink  Flowering 13 

Drive  and  Walk  Entrances.     See  Entrance  Arrangements. 

Driveways,  Construction  of 57,  58,  59,  60,  61,  62 

Dry  Wall  Gardening 225 

Entrance  Arrangements 30,  31,  32,  33,  34,  35,  36,  37,  38,  39,  40,  41,  42, 

43,  44,  45,  46 

Farm  Plantings Ill,  112 

Flagstone  Walks 51 

Flower  Garden,  The.  .  .  .125,  127,  131,  134,  136,  137,  139,  141,  145,  147,  152, 

153,  154,  157,  158,  160,  161,  164,  165,  168 

Fountain  and  Pool 175 

Garden,  Construction  Details  of  the.  .  .  .139,  141,  142,  145,  148,  150,  151,  157, 

158 

Garden  Entrance 192,  193 

Garden  House 185,  186,  187,  195 

Garden,  Rock 229 

Gardening,  Dry  Wall 225 

Garden  on  Three  Levels,  Sketch  of 166 

Garden  Pergola 189,  190,  191 

Garden  Seats 182,  183,  184 

Garden  Steps 148,  227,  228 

Garden,  The  Flower.     See  Flower  Garden. 

Garden  Pools 176,  177 

Garden  W'alls,  Construction  of 150,  151 

Garden,  Wild 220,  223,  224 

Ginkgo  or  Maidenhair  Tree  (Salisburia  adiantifolia) 81 

Grading  of  Lawns.     See  Lawn  Grading. 

Gutter  Construction 60,  61 

Harmony,  A  Study  in 17 


8  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

Page 

Hollyhocks  in  a  Border  Planting 207 

House,  Framing  the 78 

House,  The  Best  Exposure  for,  in  Relation  to  the  Sun 21 

House,  The,  Various  Studios  in  Locating  on  a  Small  Lot.  .  .  .  19,  22,  23,  24,  25, 

26,27 

Landscape  Development,  In  its  First  Stage  of 16 

Larch,  The  European  (Larix  europsea) 82 

Lawn  (Groupings 94,  95 

Lawn,  Specimen  Trees  for  the.     See  Trees,  Specimen,  etc. 

Lawns,  Grading  of 64,  66,  67,  69,  71,  73,  75,  77 

Locating  a  House  on  a  Small  Lot.    See  House,  The  Various  Studies  in,  etc. 

Macadam  Drivewavs,  Construction  of 57,  58 

Macadam  Walks.  .  .' 49 

Moving  Trees 121 

Oak,  Pin  (Ouercus  palustris) 96 

Ornamental'  Plantings 78,  79,  80,  86,  87,  88,  89 

Perennial  Borders 200,  201,  202 

Pergola,  Garden 189,  190,  191 

Personal  Note  in  the  Design  (Lombardy  Poplars) 12 

Phlox,  Hardy,  in  a  Border  Planting 199 

Planning,  A  Result  of  Careful 14 

Planting  for  Ornamental  Purposes.     See  Ornamental  Plantings. 

Planting  for  Unity,  Detail  and  Effect 85,  86,  87,  95,  104,  113 

Planting  Plans  and  Keys 95,  128,  129,  130,  131,  132,  134,  135,  167,  168, 

169,  214,  215;  232  to  263 
Planting  Trees.     See  Tree  Planting. 
Plantings,  Base.     See  Base  Plantings. 

Pools,  Garden 176,  177 

Poplars,  Lombardy 12 

Rear  Yard  Artisticallv  Planted 209 

Rock  Garden .' 229 

Rose  Arches 218 

Rose  Garden,  A  Design  for 214,  215 

Rose  Garden  on  an  Ascending  Grade 217 

Slate  Walks 52 

Spruce,  Roster's  Blue  (Picea  pungens  Kosteriana) 99 

Standpipe  for  Garden  Pool  Overflow  and  Drainage 178 

Steps,  Garden 148,  227,  228 

Stone  Walks 55 

Stucco  Walls 142 

Swimming  Pool 180 

Terrace  Walks 56 

Terraces,  Grading  of 69,  71,  73 

Tree  Moving 121 

Trees,  Specimen,  for  the  Lawn 81,  82,  83,  96,  97,  98,  99,  100 

Vegetable  and  Flower  Garden 136 

Vegetable  Garden  on  an  Old  Farm  Propertv 113 

Tree  Planting '. 116,  117,  118 

Vista,  Establishing  a • 11 

Walk  and  Drive  Entrances.     See  Entrance  Arrangements. 

Walk,  Dominant  Main,  with  Smaller  Service  Walk  Somewhat  Removed.. .    28 

Walks,  Construction  of 49,  50,  51,  52,  53,  54,  55,  56 

Walls:     Construction  of,  150,  151;    Dry  Stone,  226;    Brick,  141;    Stucco, 
142;    Retaining,  145,  158. 

Wild  Garden,  The. 220,  223,  224 

Yard  Planting .209 


IMPORTANCE  OF  CAREFUL  PLANNING 


CHAPTER  I 


IMPORTANCE  OF  CAREFUL  PLANNING 

How  very  seldom  it  is  that  the  home  builder  gives  the  same 
thought  and  consideration  to  his  outdoor  home  surroundings  that  he 
gives  to  the  interior  of  his  home  !  Do  we  not  enter  a  man's  home 
the  moment  we  set  foot  on  the  property,  and  not,  as  generally  ac- 
cepted, when  we  cross  the  threshold  ? 

There  are  many  important  reasons  for  the  careful  planning  of 
the  home  grounds  and  I  would  lay  particular  stress  on  these:  The 
greater  enjoyment  of  our  surroundings;  The  expression  of  taste 
and  personality;  The  enjoyment  of  others;  The  uplift  of  the  com- 
munity;  The  economy  of  execution. 

GREATER  EN'JOYMENT  OF  OUR  SURROUNDINGS 

To  get  the  greatest  amount  of  enjoyment  out  of  our  home  sur- 
roundings from  a  purely  practical  standpoint  the  drives,  the  walks 
and  other  utilitarian  features  should  be  carefully  planned  in  their 
relation  to  the  house.  Much  thought  should  also  be  given  to  the 
location  and  arrangement  of  the  garage,  stable,  chicken  houses,  and 
other  buildings  apart  from  the  main  house. 

From  an  esthetic  standpoint  an  even  greater  amount  of  thought 
should  be  given  to  the  accentuating,  through  the  correct  framing  of 
any  architectural  features  of  the  house  (Fig.  1);  to  screening  out 
unsightly  views;  to  the  establishing  of  vistas;  and  to  the  locating 
and  planting  of  the  gardens.  Every  tree  and  shrub,  every  plant 
and  plantation,  should  bear  a  definite  relation,  one  to  the  other,  in 
the  general  scheme. 

EXPRESSION  OF  TASTE  AND  PERSONALITY 

It  is  a  very  welcome  thought  that,  as  yet,  the  taste  and  refine- 
ment of  the  average  home  builder  is  not  judged  entirely  by  the 
exterior  arrangement  and  adornment  of  his  property.  It  is  only 
when  it  is  brought  to  his  attention  through  some  striking  incident 
that  the  average  man  is  brought  to  the  realization  that,  to  the  ma- 


10  PR^^CTICAL  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 

jority  of  his  fellows,  the  exterior  appointments  of  the  home  stand  for 
what  he  himself  is.  If  these  be  cheap  and  tawdry  he  is  judged  to 
his  prejudice,  but  if  the  arrangement  is  orderly  and  artistic  he  is 
credited  accordingly. 

It  is  essential,  therefore,  that  our  exterior  surroundings  reflect 
us  truly.  No  matter  how  small  the  space,  it  is  possible  to  beau- 
tify it.  Among  all  the  arts  of  design  none  is  so  varied  in  its  appli- 
cation as  that  pertaining  to  landscape  gardening.  Every  subject 
has  surroundings  which  influence  the  treatment  best  suited  to  its 
needs;  it  may  be  the  configuration  of  the  ground,  or  the  presence  of 
Nature's  gifts  of  woodland  and  water;  it  may  be  unattractive  nearby 
scenes,  or  beautiful  distant  views;  often,  lacking  all,  we  must  create 
scenes  within  the  boundaries. 

The  personal  note  continually  enters  into  the  design  (Fig.  2), 
Some  lean  toward  an  arrangement  that  is  stiff  and  formal,  others 
to  the  flowing  and  graceful;  some  are  partial  to  evergreens,  others 
to  deciduous  trees  and  shrubs.  In  the  floral  adornment  much  oppor- 
tunity is  given  for  individual  taste  in  the  arrangement,  the  color 
scheme,  and  the  seasons  of  bloom. 

ENJOYMENT  01  OTHERS 

This  is  an  unselfish  reason  for  more  careful  planning  and  worthy 
of  mention  from  that  standpoint  alone.  Have  some  thought  for 
your  neighbor  and  the  passerby.  Surely  such  an  opportunity  is 
not  to  be  overlooked,  for  of  all  pleasures  none  is  to  be  compared  with 
that  which  brings  joy  to  the  heart  of  others. 

The  owner  who  plans,  builds  and  cultivates  beautiful  things  is 
a  benefactor,  and  in  no  channel  of  thought  or  activity  is  there  greater 
or  more  satisfying  response  than  in  the  creation  of  the  beautiful  in 
landscape  design  (Fig.  3),  showing  a  well  placed  flowering  specimen. 

UPLIFT  TO  THE  COMMUNITY 

Nothing  is  so  conducive  to  general  carelessness,  slovenliness 
and  neglect  as  ill  kept,  unkempt  and  untidy  exteriors.  Likewise, 
nothing  is  more  elevating  and  uplifting  to  a  community  than  well 
arranged,  artistic  properties  (Fig.  4)  with  well  kept  lawns  and  gar- 
dens. The  effect  of  such  surroundings  is  magical  in  its  influence, 
and  creates  an  insistent  desire  in  others  for  the  equal  possession  of 
that  which  is  pleasing  and  beautiful.  Figs.  5  and  6  show  property 
before  and  after  planting,  from  same  point  of  view. 


THE   PERSONAL    NOTE    IX    PLANNING 


n 


ESTABLISHING  A  VISTA 

Fig.  1. — Well  planned  exteriors  add  greatly  to  the  enjoyment  of  our  surroundings.     Thi; 
planting  arrangement  emphasizes  the  bay  window  on  the  stairway. — See  page  9 


12 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


THE  PERSONAL  NOTE  IN  THE  DESIGN 

Fig.  2. — Lombardy  Poplars.     In  the  landscape  treatment  there  is  a  wide  choice  of  materia 
to  suit  the  individual  taste. — See  pages  10  and  84 


THE    PERSONAL   NOTE   IN    PLANNING 


13 


PINK  FLOWERING  DOGWOOD 

Fig.  3. — There  is  a  great  and  satisfactory  response  to  be  secured  through  the  cultivation  of 
beautiful  trees. — See  pages  10  and  84 


14 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


A  RESULT  OF  CAREFUL  PLANNING 

Fig.  4. — The  residence  here  illustrated  is  an  example  of  the  good  results  to  be  obtained  from 
careful  planning, — See  page  10 


THE   PERSONAL    NOTE    IN    PLANNING  15 

Every  house  in  a  community  should  contribute  toward  the  en- 
joyment of  the  inhabitants  thereof,  in  some  little  artistic  excellence, 
and  it  is  inexplainable  why  we  have  so  many  heterogeneous,  unattrac- 
tive and  commonplace  properties  in  communities  otherwise  refined 
and  cultured.  Lack  of  foresight  in  the  planning  is  usually  the 
cause.  It  is  important,  therefore,  that  not  only  individuals,  but 
communities  in  general  plan  carefully  for  the  house  surroundings. 

ECONOMY    OF  EXECUTION 

From  a  purely  practical  and  financial  standpoint  much  can  be 
said  of  the  importance  of  careful  planning.  Landscape  work  at- 
tempted without  the  most  careful  consideration  of  all  the  details  is 
never  very  satisfactory  and  usually  entails  large  additional  expen- 
ditures for  omissions  and  revisions.  In  the  planning  of  landscape 
work  the  floral  adornment  is  really  only  one  of  the  many  features 
which  must  be  considered.  To  make  the  most  of  our  opportunities, 
and  to  solve  easily  questions  of  proper  grading  and  draining,  the 
planning  for  landscape  features  should  start  with  the  locating  of 
the  house. 

From  this  point,  questions  of  walk  and  drive  arrangement,  walk 
and  drive  construction,  lawn  grading  and  making,  drainage,  the 
garden  and  the  garden  details,  should  all  be  taken  up  in  order.  It 
is  only  when  we  have  a  preconceived  and  specific  plan  combining  all 
these  elements  that  the  landscape  work  can  proceed  in  an  orderly 
and  economical  manner. 

THE    PLAN 

The  plan  represents  the  conception  of  the  designer  committed 
to  paper  in  a  specific  and  comprehensive  manner. 

Any  development,  to  be  .worth  while,  should  be  studied  in  the 
plan  before  attempting  to  execute  the  work  on  the  ground. 

In  landscape  work  it  is  usually  advisable  to  have  two  general 
plans — the  grading  plan  and  the  planting  plan. 

THE    GR.\DING   PLAN 

The  grading  plan  is  the  essential  beginning  of  the  landscape 
design;  the  foundation  on  which  the  picture  we  desire  to  create  will 
be  realized.  It  shows  the  location  and  arrangement  of  all  the  prac- 
tical and  utilitarian  features.     It  provides  for  the  walks  and  drives 


THE   PERSONAL   NOTE   IN   PLANNING 


17 


A  STUDY  IN  HARMONY 

Fig.  6. — Well  arranged,  artistic  properties  are  an  uplift  to  the  community.     The  building 
'\s  the  same  as  that  shown  on  page  16. — See  page  10 


18  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

and  gives  the  established  grades  for  the  same.  It  shows  in  a  con- 
crete form  the  scheme  devised  for  the  grading  and  lawn  making,  the 
proper  preparation  of  all  portions  on  which  turf  is  wanted.  The 
gardens  are  located,  grades  established,  enclosures  and  architectural 
features,  such  as  fountains  and  pools,  provided  for.  Questions  of 
drainage  are  carefully  considered  and  taken  care  of;  also  the  water 
supply  for  lawns,  gardens,  fountains  and  pools.  In  fact,  all  the 
physical  features  are  provided  for  and  specified  so  that  estimates 
for  the  whole  or  for  any  part  of  the  work  may  easily  be  secured. 

To  prepare  a  grading  plan  there  must  first  be  a  simple  survey 
of  the  property.  The  map  of  the  survey  should  show  the  property 
lines  and  existing  features,  such  as  large  trees,  buildings,  roads,  if 
any,  all  in  their  true  relative  dimensions  and  positions. 

In  connection  with  this  survey  levels  should  be  taken  showing 
the  existing  contours  at  intervals  of  from  one  to  five  feet,  according 
to  the  slope  of  the  ground.  Also  elevations  at  the  base  of  trees  and 
in  the  \acinity  of  buildings,  the  sidewalk  elevation,  and  the  crown 
of  the  highway. 

I  will  not  go  very  deeply  into  the  technicalities  of  making  a 
survey  or  of  running  levels.  On  small  properties  anyone  with  a 
know^ledge  of  simple  engineering  can  get  all  the  data  necessary;  on 
larger  estates  a  topographical  survey  is  necessary. 

THE    PLANTING   PLAN 

The  planting  plan  represents  the  horticultural  and  esthetic  part 
of  the  design.  It  shows  the  selection  and  distribution  of  the  trees 
and  plants,  each  having  a  definite  purpose  and  a  direct  bearing  on 
the  whole  general  scheme.  In  the  making  of  such  a  plan  all  the 
questions  that  the  reader  will  find  taken  up  and  considered  in  the 
chapters  on  Tree  and  Shrub  Planting,  Flower  Gardens,  etc.,  are 
important,  and  their  application  is  shown  in  Chapter  XI,  where 
many  concrete  examples  will  be  found. 


LOCATING    THE    HOUSE 


19 


CHAPTER  II 


LOCATING  THE  HOUSE 
When  planning  the  house,  even  for  a  small  plot,  much  consid- 
eration should  be  given  to  the  proper  location.  The  aim  should 
be  to  secure  comfort,  pleasure  and  enjoyment  for  the  occupants, 
not  only  from  the  interior,  but  as  well  from  as  much  of  the  exterior 
as  may  be  embraced.  Some  thought  should  be  given,  too,  to  the 
presentment  of  the  best  architectural  features  of  the  house  to  the 
view  of  those  from  without. 


EXPOSURE 

The  course  of  the  sun  in  relation  to  the  principal  rooms  of  the 
house  should  be  of  the  first  importance.  Fig.  7  shows  the  points  of 
the  compass  and  the  comparative  value  of  each  exposure. 

The  location  of  the  majority  of  small  houses  is  governed  by  the 
street.  The  highways  usually  run  north  and  south,  or  east  and 
west,  and  so  the  houses  are  placed  accordingly,  invariably  facing 
the  street.  This  is  a  practice  that  should  be  discontinued  if  we 
are  to  get  all  the  enjoyment  possible  out  of  our  homes.  There  is 
no  good  reason  why  we  should  not  turn  the  house  entirely  around 
if  necessary  to  get  the  best  exposure.  By  careful  planning  of  the 
house  and  grounds,  the  kitchen  wing  may,  if  advisable,  face  the 
street  with  more  pleasure  and  comfort  to  the  occupants,  and  with- 
out objection  to  the  passerby. 

Figs.  8,  9,  10,  11,  12,  13  show  houses  variously  lo- 
cated on  small  lots. 

On  larger  estates  the  house  should  really  be  planned 
for  the  house  site,  and  not  the  site  for  the  house,  as 


STUDY  OF  A  HOUSE  LOCATION  ON  A  SMALL  LOT 

Fig.  14. — A  house  on  an  eminence  with  rising  ground  in  the  rear. 
See  page  20 


20  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENLMG 

is  so  often  the  case.  Here,  too,  we  have  the  question  of  best  ex- 
posure, and,  in  addition,  consideration  must  be  given  to  the  back- 
ground, views,  and  drainage. 

The  house  should  always  be  on  an  eminence,  but  need  not  neces- 
sarily be  on  the  highest  point  of  the  ground  (Fig.  14).  In  fact,  it 
is  often  advisable  to  select  a  site  with  rising  ground  at  the  rear.  If 
the  rising  ground  be  wooded  the  house  will  appear  more  attractive 
and  fit  more  snugly  into  the  landscape.  For  the  best  view  one 
can  always  ascend  to  the  higher  point  for  observation  and  the  scene 
will  be  more  enjoyable  for  the  occasional  visit  than  it  would  be  if 
it  were  continually  within  the  line  of  vision. 

It  is  often  possible  to  locate  the  house  so  that  the  principal  rooms 
are  on  the  axis  of  some  beautiful  distant  view.  This  point  should 
not  be  overlooked  when  the  site  is  selected. 

The  question  of  drainage  is  an  important  one.  To  secure  com- 
fort and  health  in  a  home  the  cellar  and  foundation  should  always 
be  dry.  The  ideal  location  is  one  where  the  ground  slopes  directly 
away  from  the  house  on  all  four  sides  (Fig.  15,  page  77).  When  such 
a  location  is  not  naturally  available  extra  provision  must  be  made 
when  grading  the  ground  directly  around  the  house. 

The  character  of  the  soil  should  be  considered  and,  if  the  ground 
is  wet,  underdrains  should  be  provided. 

The  attitude  usually  assumed,  to  the  effect  that  no  consideration 
need  be  given  to  the  landscape  treatment  when  locating  houses  on 
plots  of  an  acre  or  less,  needs  some  modification.  While  the  house 
must  be,  of  course,  the  dominant  feature,  a  careful  study  of  sur- 
rounding .conditions,  the  question  of  exposure  and  exterior .  adorn- 
ment before  locating  the  house,  will  well  repay  the  owner. 

It  is  much  to  be  regretted  that,  on  account  of  the  generally  in- 
considerate placing  of  the  house,  most  of  our  lawn  area  is  in  the 
rear  of  the  house.  Certainly  this  gives  a  larger  measure  of  privacy, 
but  too  often  this  privacy  is  a  detriment.  People  grow  careless  of 
that  which  is  not  open  for  all  to  see.  Backyards  provide  a  con- 
venient place  for  the  accumulation  of  trash  and  rubbish  and  soon 
the  lawn  is  in  danger  of  being  neglected  (Figs.  11  and  12).  A  much 
better  scheme  is  that  of  placing  the  house  well  to  the  rear  of  the  lot, 
leaving  but  a  small  space  at  the  back;  or  of  placing  the  house  well 
to  one  side,  allowing  a  more  extended  lawn  from  the  front  to  rear 
line.  If  the  exposure  is  good  the  principal  rooms  of  the  house  may 
be  planned  to  face  the  lawn  rather  than  the  street. 


LOCATING   THE   HOUSE 


21 


22 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE    GARDENING 


Fig.  8. — House 
located  well  to 
the  rear  of  the 
lot  with 
straight  box 
bordered 
approach. — See 
page  19 


STUDY  OF  A  HOUSE  LOCATION  ON  A  SMALL  LOT 


LOCATING   THE   HOUSE 


23 


Fig.  9. — House 
facing  the 
street  with 
straight  ap- 
proach.— See 
page  19 


STUDY  OF  A  HOUSE  LOCATION  ON  A  SMALL  LOT 


24 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  10.- 
House  located 
vvel  ]to  the  rear 
of  lot.  showing 
treatment  with 
curved  walk, 
entering  from 
the  side  to  give 
apparent 
breadth  to  the 
property. — See 
pages  1 9  and  29 


STUDY  OF  A  HOUSE  LOCATION  ON  A  SMALL  LOT 


LOCATING   THE   HOUSE 


25 


Fig.  II.- 
House  located 
with  kitchen 
wing  facing  the 
street;  hidden 
by  the  plant- 
ing.— See  pages 
19  and  20 


STUDY  OF  A  HOUSE  LOCATION  ON  A  SMALL  LOT 


26 


PRACTICAI.   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig  1  2.- 
House  placed 
in  the  center 
of  lot  facing 
the  rear,  and 
overlooking  a 
formal  garden. 
The  borders 
are  shrub  plan- 
tations with  a 
bird  thicket  at 
the  rear  as  a 
background  to 
the  garden. — 
See  page  19 


)       c^ 


STUDY  OF  A  HOUSE  LOCATION  ON  A  SMALL  LOT 


LOCATING    THE    HOUSE 


27 


Fig.  13.- 
House  facing 
the  street,  with 
curved  ap- 
proach;  lawn  in 
rear  protected 
by  the  extend- 
ing  border 
plantings. — 
See  page  19 


STUDY  OF  A  HOUSE  LOCATION  ON  A  SMALL  LOT 


28 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDEN LNG 


Q 


WALKS,  DRIVES    AND    ENTRANCES  29 


CHAPTER  III 


ARRANGEMENTS  OF  WALKS.  DRIVES  AND  ENTRANCES 

After  the  site  for  the  house  has  been  located  the  next  provision 
to  be  made  concerns  the  best  arrangement  of  walks  and  drives. 
Here,  as  in  all  the  other  features  of  landscape  development,  we  have 
a  wide  latitude  and  are  not  confined  to  any  one  particular  style. 
Every  property  has  its  individual  conditions;  these  must  he  care- 
fully considered,  for  they  will  more  or  less  influence  the  designer  of 
the  drive  and  walk  arrangement.  One  principle,  however,  is  fixed: 
Drives  and  walks  must  be  as  direct  as  possible  without  being  forced 
or  twisted;  they  should  approach  by  means  of  straight  lines  or  by 
easy,  graceful  curves. 

The  house  being  the  objective  point,  the  trend  should  always  be 
in  its  direction.  The  approach,  when  from  the  side,  should  be  so 
placed  that  a  good  perspective  of  the  house  will  attract  the  eye  as 
one  comes  toward  it.  If  some  architectural  feature  in  the  house 
is  a  dominant  note  and  worthy  of  attention  arrange  the  curve  so 
that,  at  a  certain  point,  this  feature  will  hold  the  center  of  the  pic- 
ture. Some  such  feature  may  be  a  prettily  designed  window  or 
doorway. 

When  the  house  is  situated  at  some  distance  from  the  highway, 
the  foreground  fairly  level,  and  the  property  of  considerable  depth, 
a  straight  approach  (Fig.  lO)  on  the  axis  of  the  portal,  such  as  the 
straight,  box=bordered  approaches  of  the  old  Southern  homes,  is 
most  pleasing. 

In  a  straight  approach  (Fig.  17)  there  should  be  no  circles,  such 
as  we  often  see,  around  which  a  detour  must  be  made  before  the 
house  is  reached. 

On  a  property  of  little  breadth  the  straight  walk  through  the 
center  bisects  the  lawn,  leaving  two  tracts  which  are  very  difficult 
to  treat.  On  such  a  property  it  is  l:)etter  to  confine  the  walk  to  one 
side  (Fig.  10)  and  arrange  the  planting  to  accentuate  the  breadth. 

In  the  majority  of  cases  drive  and  walk  should  enter  at  a  right 
angle  to  the  property  line  (Fig.  IS)  and  finish  parallel  to  the  house. 
Fig.  19  shows  an  improper  method  of  intersection  with  front  pavement. 


O""^-, 


T 


WALKS,  DRIVES   AND    EXTRANXES 


31 


Fig.     18. — Good    entrance    arrangement. 

Walk   entering  at   a   right   angle   to   the 

property  line. — See  page  29 


Fig.     19. — Poor    entrance    arrangement. 

Walk  not  at  a  right  angle  to  property 

line.— See  page  29 


When  a  residence  is  located  on  a  highway  where  all  or  nearly 
all  of  the  traffic  is  from  one  point,  the  entrance  drive  (Fig.  20)  should 
favor  that  direction.  Such  an  arrangement  is  also  desirable  when 
the  ground  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  road  is  precipitous  or  dangerous. 

The  entrance  gate  should  be  toward  that  side  of  the  property 
from  which  the  greater  portion  of  the  traffic, may  be  expected.  It 
is  a  decided  mistake  to  place  the  entrance  at  a  point  where  it  will 
necessitate  the  crossing  of  the  breadth  of  the  lot  and  then  having 


Fig.  20. — Entrance  arrangement  when  traffic  is  all  from  one  direction 

to  return  to  the  house  after  entering  the  property.  Where  the  traffic 
is  likely  to  be  just  as  great  from  one  direction  as  from  another  it  is 
quite  practicable  and  pleasing  to  have  two  entrances  with  a  semi-cir- 
cular walk  to  the  front  (Fig.  21).  This  is  feasible  where  the  width 
of  the  lot  is  about  equal  to  the  distance  (or  a  little  less)  from  the 


32 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


WALKS,  DRIVES   AND   ENTRANCES 


33 


T'UB  L.  I  c 


i-i  I  C  H-VA/Ay 


Fig.  22. — Plan  showing  two  entrances  close  to  party  line  fences 


front  property  line  to  the  residence.  Such  an  arrangement  is  more 
pleasing  than  a  straight  walk  down  the  center.  It  gives  the  ap- 
pearance of  the  lawn  expanse  and  apparently  greater  breadth. 

When  placing  the  entrance  at  the  side  (Fig.  22)  a  sufficient  space 
should  be  left  between  the  walk  and  the  party  line  for  some  orna- 
mental planting. 

When  it  is  desirable  to  have  two  entrances  (Fig.  23),  one  may 
be  for  pedestrians  and  the  other  for  vehicles. 

It  is  well  to  have  the  service  walk  (Figs.  24  and  24A)  somewhat 
removed  from  the  front  of  the  house  if  possible.  The  main  walk 
leading  to  the  front  of  the  house  should  be  dominant,  the  service 
walk  narrower. 

Where  the  length  of  the  walk  is  sufficient  it  is  advisable  to  have 
greater  variety  and  beauty  by  having  a  reverse  curve  (Fig.  25),  but 
this  is  only  permissible  where  the  distance  is  at  least  fifty  feet. 

Corner  properties  (Figs.  26  and  26A)  may  be  entered  from  the 
corner,  but  such  entrances  are  rather  difficult  to  arrange  in  a  satis- 


34 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  23.— Two  entrances;  one'for  pedestrians,  one  for  vehicles.— See  page  33 

factory  way.     Where  such  a  scheme  is  adopted  it  is  well  to  have  the 
piers  set  well  back  from  the  line,  placing  them  tangent  to  the  arc  of 

the  circle  with  the  center  at  the  in- 
tersection of  the  two  property  lines. 
This  will  leave  two  small  grass 
plots  on  either  side  of  the  walk 
which  may  be  pleasingly  treated 
with  ornamental  plantations. 

When  locating  a  drive  or  walk 
where  it  is  desired  to  avoid  the 
direct  line,  it  is  well  to  select  a 
point  (Fig.  27),  if  practicable, 
where  some  formidable  feature, 
such  as  a  large  tree,  makes  some 
de\'iation  from  the  straight  line 
necessary. 

On  properties  where  the  resi- 
dence   is    located    not    less    than 
Fig.    24.-Plan   showing   the   walk    to      seventy  feet  from   the  front  line, 

service  end  or  house  somewhat  removed  ,  .   ,    •^,.  .  ^-    i   ^ 

from  the  house.-See  page  33  which  distance  IS  essential  to  give 


WALKS,  DRIVES  AND   ENTRANCES 


35 


Fig.    25. — Plan    showing    arrangement    of    the 

approach  where  the  house  sets  too  far  back 

to  be  reached  by  a  single  arc  of  a  circle, 

and    a    reverse   is    necessary. — See 

page  33 


a  proper  turning  space  for 
cars  with  a  large  wheel 
base,  an  entrance  (Fig.  28) 
may  be  placed  on  the  axis 
of  the  house  and  the  drive 
constructed  to  a  true  cir- 
cle. This  is  a  particularly 
appropriate  arrangement 
for  houses  of  classic  de- 
sign. 

On  narrow  highways  it 
is  well  to  set  the  entrance 
posts  (Fig.  29)  well  back 
to  afford  an  easy  turn 
into  the  property.  The 
piers  defining  an  entrance 
should  always  be  set  at 
right  angles  to  the  road- 
way and,  where  the  en- 
trance is  at  an  angle,  the 
fence  or  enclosing  mater- 
ial, be  it  hedge  or  wall,  should  extend  by  a  graceful  curve  to  the 
piers.  A  more  pleasing  and  comfortable  approach  will  be  provided 
•by  keeping  the  fence  two  to  four  feet  back  from  the  pier,  and  finish- 
ing against  the  pier  at  a  right  angle,  rather  than  finishing  directly 
to  the  center  of  the  face  of  the  pier  toward  the  highway. 

The  question  of  width  and  grade  of  approaches  is  of  vital  im- 
portance. If  the  elevation  from  the  highway  to  the  residence  be 
great,  the  ascent  should  be  as  gradual  as  practicable,  crossing  the 

contours  at  the  greatest  possible  angle. 
To  cross  a  contour  at  a  right  angle 
gives  the  steepest  grade  and  is  to  be 
avoided.  When  laying  off  the  drive, 
set  the  dividers  with  twenty-five  or 
fifty  feet  between  the  points  and  run 
around  the  contour  map  along  a  pos- 
sible line  of  ascent,  figuring  out  the 
maximum  of  grade  desired.  A  six 
r-.     ^,     o,       ,      .  ,      per  cent,  grade,  that  is,  a  rise  of  six 

rig.  lb. — rlan  snowing  arrangement  . 

foi  a  corner  entrance.— See  page  33       feet   in    every   one    hundred   feet   of 


36 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENLXG 


WALKS,  DRIVES   AND    ENTRANCES 


37 


-a 

c 

O  ro 
F    60 


-i    d) 


Ji12 
nJ  .2 


on  g 


38 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  28.— Entrance  on  axis  of  house,  with  drive  constructed  to  a  true  circle.— See  page  35 

drive,  is  an  ideal  grade.  A  ten  per  cent,  grade,  i.e.,  a  rise  of  ten 
feet  in  every  one  hundred  feet  of  drive,  should  be  the  maximum. 
A  line  in  between  these  two  should  be  established.  In  mountainous 
countries,  of  course,  it  is  often  necessary  to  establish  a  twelve  to 
fifteen  per  cent,  grade. 

On  adjoining  properties  (Fig.  30)  it  is  possible  at  times  to  have 
a  party  drive  and  turn,  allowing  an  entrance  to  both  properties  from 
two  streets,  thereby  affording  a  maximum  of  convenience  with  econ- 
omy of  space. 

In  contracted  spaces,  where  houses  are  close  together  (Fig.  31), 


WALKS,  DRIVES   AND   ENTRANCES 


Fig.  2'). — Entrance  posts  set  back  with  hedge  or  wall  finishing  at  a  right  angle  to  the  pier. — 

See  page  35 

party  drives  are  preferable  to  having  two  driveways  paralleling  each 
other,  and  where  it  is  only  necessary  to  provide  for  motor  cars,  two 
tracks  constructed  of  cement  are  to  be  preferred  to  a  driveway. 

Given  a  house  on  a  higher  level  than  the  street,  ayd  only  a  short 
distance  from  pa\-ement  to  house  line,  an  arrangement  of  approach 
steps  as  shown  in  Fig.  32  will  lengthen  the  walk,  allowing  it  to  come 
out  to  the  lot  line;  in  such  a  case  the  grass  slopes  on  each  side  can 
still  be  maintained. 

Where  the  house  is  located  on  a  level  higher  than  the  street  level 
but  near  the  same,  it  will  add  to  the  interest,  and  picturesqueness  as 
well,  if  the  approach  is  placed  at  one  side,  as  shown  in  Fig.  33.  The 
terrace  le\'el  here  is  eight  feet  above  the  pavement,  and  the  approach 
is  arranged  in  four  flights  of  steps.  The  belt  planting  gives  privacy  and 
the  approach  is  planned  so  that  it  does  not  interfere  with  this  feature. 

The  drive  turns  (Figs.  34,  35,  36,  37  and  38),  which  are  usually 
provided  at  the  rear  or  side  of  the  house,  were  quite  roomy  in  former 
days  with  a  diameter  of  fifty  feet.  The  coming  of  the  automobile 
has  made  it  necessary  to  provide  a  diameter  of  seventy  feet. 

The  elliptical  or  egg-shaped  turn  is  more  desirable  than  the  true 
circle.  This  allows  of  a  rather  flat  side  next  to  the  house  so  that  a 
waiting  vehicle  will  be  standing  in  the  proper  position.  This  is 
not  possible  on  a  turn  that  is  part  of  the  arc  of  a  circle. 

When  crossing  a  stream  where  a  bridge  is  required  (Fig.  39)  it 
is  advisable  to  cross  at  a  right  angle  to  the  stream  so  that  the  wing 
walls  may  be  built  symmetrically. 


40 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


J       V 


WALKS,  DRIVES   AND    ENTRANCES 


41 


42 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


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00 

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WALKS,  DRIVES  AND   ENTRANCES 


43 


Fig.  33.— Entrance  arrangement  for  house  on  a  level  just  slightly  higher  than  the 
pavement. — See  page  39 


WIDTH    OF   WALKS   AND   DRIVES 

As  regards  width,  the  walks  should  not  be  less  than  four  feet 
six  inches.  The  driveways  should  not  be  less  than  fourteen  feet 
where  it  may  be  necessary  to  have  vehicles  pass,  or  ten  feet  where 


44 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  34.— The  elliptical  turn  is  attractive  and  practical  either  directly  in  front  of  the  house 
or  at  the  end.     The  ends  should  be  full  to  give  ample  turning  space. — See  page  39 

the  entrance  is  within  sight  of  the  turn.  Where  a  great  expanse  of 
ground  makes  it  more  consistent  with  a  proportionate  entrance  to 
have  greater  width,  the  drives  may  be  made  sixteen  or  eighteen  feet. 
This  greater  width  is  really  necessary  now  to  allow  motor  cars  to 
pass  one  another  comfortably. 


Fig.  35. — To  provide  turning  space  for  the  largest  motor  cars  it  is  necessary  to^^have  a  circle 
not  less  than  seventy  feet  in  diameter.     The  center  should  be  directly  on  the  axis  of  the 
entrance  door. — See  page  39 


Where  possible,  the  pedestrian  walk  should  be  combined  with  the 
drive,  thus  eliminating  the  further  breaking  up  of  the  lawTi.  Walks 
and  drives  are  necessary,  but  cannot  be  considered  as  pleasing  land- 
scape features  where  lawn  space  is  small.  Any  scheme  that  will  help 
to  preserve  the  unbroken  unity  is  to  be  desired. 


WALKS,  DRIVES  AND   ENTRANCES 


43 


Fig.  36. — The  egg-shaped  turn  should  always  be  placed  at  the  end  of  the  house  and  be  well 
concealed  by  plantings. — See  page  39 


Fig.  37. — A  modified  pear-shaped  turn  with  the  line  nearest  the  house  parallel  to  it.    Such 
a  turn  is  less  desirable  for  the  front  of  the  house  than  one  of  formal  design. — See  page  39 


46 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  38. — The  rectangular  turn  is  dignified  and  especially  appropriate  for  Colonial  houses. 
The  center  grass  space  may  be  enclosed  with  box  edging  to  good  effect. — See  page  39 


^  <^/^  i_ 


Fig.  39. — When  a  drive  or  walk  crosses  a  stream  where  a  bridge  is  required  it  is  advisable 
to  cross  at  a  right  angle  to  the  stream  so  that  the  wing  walls  may  be  built  symmetrically. — 

See  page  39 


CONSTRUCTION    OF   WALKS  AND    DRIVES  47 


CHAPTER  IV 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  WALKS  AND  DRIVES 

Walks  and  driveways  are  features  which  should  be  built  with 
a  view  to  permanency.  The  first  cost  of  a  properly  constructed 
walk  or  road  should  not  be  considered  prohibitive  unless  equal 
consideration  be  given  to  the  expense  of  maintaining  a  poorly  con- 
structed one. 

Main  walks  should  not  be  less  than  four  feet  six  inches  wide, 
and  where  a  great  expanse  of  ground  makes  it  consistent  with  a 
proportionate  entrance  they  may  be  five  or  six  feet. 

CEMENT   WALKS 

Cement  makes  a  good,  permanent  material  for  walks  (Figs.  40 
and  41)  and  eliminates  further  upkeep,  care  and  expense.  It  will 
outlast  any  other  walk  material  with  the  exception  of  North  River 
flagstone.  For  heavy  soils  a  foundation  of  cinders  eighteen  inches 
deep  is  recommended.  This  may  be  reduced  to  six  inches  or  omitted 
altogether  on  light  and  sandy  soils.  Three  inches  of  concrete  and 
one  inch  of  cement  finish  make  a  durable  walk.  A  three-quarter 
inch  expansion  joint  should  be  provided  every  twenty  to  twenty-five 
feet.  This  should  extend  through  the  concrete  base  as  well  as  the 
cement  surface.  The  joint  may  be  filled  with  asphalt  or  sand  (Fig. 
42).  Cement  walks  have  very  little  to  recommend  them  from  an 
esthetic  point  of  view.  The  surface  is  glaring  in  Summer  and  slip- 
pery in  Winter.  If  the  top  is  roughened  with  a  coarse  broom  when 
put  down  the  surface  will  be  more  pleasing  than  the  customary 
smooth  finish  with  small  and  regular  indentations  made  with  a 
roughened  roller.  A  cement  walk  with  roughened  surface  should 
have  a  smooth  margin  two  inches  wide  on  each  side. 

The  glare  from  cement  walks  may  be  reduced  by  tinting  the 
surface  coat  with  mortar  stain.  The  stain  should  be  used  in 
small  quantities,  and  only  the  very  best  make,  care  being  taken  when 
mixing  to  have  the  color  thoroughly  worked  through  the  mass,  other- 
wise it  injures  the  quality  of  the  cement.  On  an  inclined  walk  it 
is   advisable   to   have  alternate  lines  of    rough  and  smooth  surface 


48  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

running  at  right  angles  to  the  side  of  the  walk.  The  roughened 
strips  should  be  three  inches  wide  and  the  smooth  strips  two  inches 
wide. 

The  use  of  cement  has  become  so  universal  that  it  is  really 
monotonous  and,  when  possible,  a  material  should  be  used  that  is 
more  in  tune  with  the  natural  surroundings. 

MACADAM   WALKS 

Well  kept  macadam  walks  (Fig.  43)  require  more  care  than 
cement  walks,  but  are  a  little  more  pleasing  on  a  lawn.  Use  three 
Inches  of  two  and  one-half  inch  stone,  two  inches  of  one  and  one- 
half  inch  stone,  and  one  inch  of  breaker  dust.  Wet  thoroughly  and 
roll  to  a  hard  and  even  surface.  Quarry  spawls  may  be  used  for  the 
two  and  one-half  inch  stone  if  securable  near  at  hand;  this  would 
materially  reduce  the  cost.  Such  walks  cost  about  seventy  cents  per 
square  yard  under  favorable  conditions.  A  macadam  walk  is  more 
satisfactory  from  a  landscape  point  of  view  than  cement.  On  properties 
where  steep  grades  are  encountered  provision  must  be  made  for 
proper  drainage,  else  the  cost  of  maintenance  will  be  prohibitive. 
Gutters  and  catch  basins  should  be  installed  at  intervals.  Macadam 
walks  should  have  a  crown  of  one-half  inch  to  the  foot. 

RED    GRAVEL   WALKS 

A  surface  of  one  to  two  inches  of  red  gravel  on  the  same  base  as 
recommended  for  the  macadam  path  makes  a  walk  that  is  really  the 
best  for  paths  within  the  property  borders.  Gravel  walks  are  sub- 
ject to  surface  washing  and  should  be  provided  with  gutters  and 
catch  basins. 

FLAGSTONE   WALKS 

Flagstone  walks,  made  with  flags  of  North  River  blue  stone  or 
Indiana  limestone,  are  the  most  serviceable  of  all  walks. 

The  flags  should  be  two  to  three  inches  thick  and  should  be  laid 
on  a  sub-base  of  cinders  not  less  than  six  inches  deep.  Wet  the 
cinders  and  tamp  them  to  a  hard,  even  surface;  over  this  place  one 
inch  of  bar  sand  compacted  as  a  cushion  for  the  flags.  After  the  slabs 
are  leveled  and  firmed  the  joints  should  be  pointed  with  a  flat  cement 
mortar  joint. 

It  is  customary  to  lay  flags  cut  in  single  blocks  of  various  lengths 
to  the  full  width  of  the  walk. 


CONSTRUCTION   OF   WALKS   AND    DRIVES 


49 


Fig.  40. — Cross  section  through  cement  walk. — See  page  47 

In  recent  years  the  custom,  copied  from  abroad,  has  been  intro- 
duced of  breaking  up  the  flags  and  laying  them  with  random  joints 
(Figs.  44  and  45),  giving  a  very  picturesque  effect.  The  interstices 
between  the  stones  may  be  pointed  with  cement  mortar  one  to  one 
and  one-half  inches  wide,  or  the  joints  may  be  made  from  two  to 
three  inches  wide,  without  mortar,  allowing  the  grass  to  come  up 


■/rr  -/y/v^-^^ 


Fig.  41. — Cross  section  through  cement  walk,  with  cement  curb. — See  page  47 


in  the  spaces.     The  latter  is  much  more  attractive  when  it  is  possible 
to  keep  the  turf  green  by  copious  waterings  during  droughts. 

Slate  (Fig.  46)  is  sometimes  used  in  a  similar  manner,  and,  com- 
ing as  it  does  in  various  shades,  some  beautifully  marked  with  rich 
brown  splashes,  makes  a  very  pleasing  appearance.  When  the 
slabs  of  slate  are  broken  to  be  laid  with  random  joints,  with  grass 


^-<^^/^^  cA^^/ 


Fig.  43.— Cross  section  through  macadam  walk. — See  page  48 


50 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


COXSTRUCTIOX    OF    WALKS   AND    DRIVES 


51 


in  the  interstices,  they  may  be  laid  directly  on  the  turf  where  they 
will  eventually  settle  into  place  with  all  the  appearance  of  having 
"  just  happened  there." 


Fig.  44. — Walk  of  broken  flagstones  laid  with  wide  mortar  joints. — See  page  49 


BRICK   WALKS 


The  brick  walk,  properly  laid,  is  pleasing  to  the  eye  and  makes 
a  good  contrast  with  the  turf.  It  does  not  lend  itself  well  to  curved 
lines  and  so  should  be  used  only  where  straight  lines  predominate. 

Bricks  may  be  laid  on  either  a  cinder  or  a  concrete  base.  A 
cinder  base  should  consist  of  six  inches  of  clean  cinders  with  one 


Fig.  45. — Walk  of  broken  flagstones  laid  with  wide  mortar  joint. — See  page  49 


52 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


A  SLATE  WALK 
Fig.  46. — Slate  makes  a  pleasing  walk,  coming  as  it  does  in  various  shades,  some  slates  being 
beautifully  marked  with  rich  brown  splashes. — See  page  49 


CONSTRUCTION    OF    WALKS   AND    DRIVES 


53 


Fig.  47. — If  a  brick  walk  is  six  feet 

wide    or    more    a    border    such    as 

shown  here  makes  an  attractive 

finish. — See  page  51 


Fig.  48. — A  good  treatment  for  brick 

walks   less   than   six   feet   wide. — See 

page  51 


inch  of  bar  sand  as  a  cushion.  The  concrete  base,  which  is  more 
expensive,  should  consist  of  five  inches  of  concrete  with  a  one  inch 
sand  cushion.  A  concrete  base  preserves  a  true  aUgnment  and 
prevents  upheavals.  A  brick  walk  should  always  have  a  curb  of 
bricks  laid  on  edge  or  end. 

Figs.  47,  48,  49,  oO  and  51  show  various  designs  for  brick  walks. 

The  old  diagonal  fashion  (Fig.  52)  gives  an  atmosphere  of  Colonial 
times  and  will  probably  continue  to  be  looked  upon  with  favor  by 
those  who  contemplate  the  construction  of  garden  walks.  This 
design  in  particular  does  not  lend  itself  well  to  curved  lines,  so  its 
use  is  limited  to  positions  where  straight  lines  predominate. 


Fig.    49.— An    attractive    border    of 

brick  laid  on  edge  the  full  width.— 

See  page  51 


Fig.  50. — Basket  pattern.    Half  bricks 
on  edge  for  a   border.-  -See  page  51 


54 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDEN L\G 


Fig.  5L — The  basket  pattern  of  bricks 

on  edge  is  not  so  pleasing,  as  it 

shows     too     many     mortar 

lines. — See  page  53 


Fig.  52. — The  old-fashioned  diagonal 

or  herringbone  pattern  in  bricks  or 

tile.     Good  where  straight  lines 

predominate. — See     pages     51 

and  53 


When  the  bricks  are  laid  in  place  the  joints  should  be  filled  with 
bar  sand  or  grouted  and  pointed  with  cement  mortar.  The  mortar 
joints  are  expensive  but  more  lasting  than  the  sand  and  prevent 
weeds  or  grass  from  growing  in  the  interstices. 

The  texture  of  brick  walks  may  be  greatly  improved  by  applying 
an  occasional  coating  of  boiled  linseed  oil. 

STEPPING    STONE    WALKS 

Stepping  stones  of  local  field  stone  (Figs.  53  and  54)  are  very 
naturalistic  and  picturescjue.  They  may  be  laid  in  a  single  or  double 
line;  the  double  line  for  walks  of  importance,  the  single  line  for 
secondary  paths.  The  stones  should  be  set  into  the  sod  to  a  depth 
that  will  bring  the  flat  surface  level  with  the  turf  to  allow 
of  the  lawn  mower  passing  o\'er.  Space  the  stones  twenty  inches 
apart,  center  to  center,  using  stones  not  less  than  twelve  inches  wide 
nor  larger  than  eighteen  inches  wide.  Vary  the  stones  and  avoid 
placing  pieces  of  the  same  dimensions  close  together. 


TERRACE    WALKS 


Terrace  walks  (Fig.  55)  should  be  of  rather  generous  dimensions, 
never  less  than  five  feet  wide,  while  on  very  broad  terraces  the  walk 
may  be  from  seven  to  ten  feet  wide.  It  is  good  practice  on  broad 
terraces  to  place  the  walk  nearer  the  house  than  the  edge  of  the 


CONSTRUCTION   OF   WALKS   AND    DRIVES 


55 


Fig.  53.— Stepping  stone  walk:   the  stones,  gathered  from  local  sources,   are  laid   twenty 
inches  apart,  center  to  center. — See  page  54 


terrace,  that  is,  to  have  more  turf  area  on  the  outside  of  the  walk 
than  between  the  walk  and  the  building. 

Any  of  the  materials  mentioned  for  walk  construction  are  suit- 
able for  terrace  walks.  Something  substantial  looking,  such  as 
the  flags,  or  bricks,  are  most  appropriate,  and  should  always  be  laid 
on  a  firm  base. 

DUTCH   TILE 

Dutch  tile,  sometimes  called  brick  tile  on  account  of  the  simi- 
larity in  texture,  should  be  more  generally  used  for  terrace  walks. 
These  should  always  be  laid  on  a  concrete  base  with  mortar  joints 
not  less  than  one-half  inch  wide. 

All  paving  material  should  be  laid  true  and  even,  and  on  walks 


Fig.  54. — Field  stones  laid  in  turf  are  very  pleasing  where  a  walk  of  some  width  is  desired.^ 

See  page  54 


56 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


TREATMENT  OF  THE  TERRACE  WALK 

Fig.  55.— Terrace  walks  should  be  of  generous  dimensions,  never  less  than  five  feet  wide.- 

See  page  54 


CONSTRUCTION    OF    WALKS   AND    DRIVES 


Fig.  56. — A  cross  section  through  a  waterbound  macadam  road  with  cement  curb  and 

gutter. — See  page  62 

it   is  essential  to  give  them  a  crown  of  one-half  of  an  inch  to  the 
foot.     Terrace  walks  should  follow  the  general  slope  of  the  ground. 

DRIVEW.AYS    OF   CEMENT 

On  small  properties  the  cement  driveway  is  advisable  and  superior 
to  any  other.  Oftentimes  two  cement  tracks,  with  sod  between,  will 
take  care  of  all  traffic  and  yet  apparently  reduce  the  space  taken  up 
by  the  drive. 

W.ATERBOUND   MAC.AD.^M 

]Most  of  the  driveways  built  today  are  those  which  are  known  as 
Telford  roads  (Fig.  50).  These  are  usually  constructed  of  twelve 
inches  of  stone  over  all.  An  eight  inch  foundation  is  provided  of 
hard  quarry  stone,  laid  on  edge,  with  the  longest  dimension  placed 


Fig.  57. — Very  often  the  large  stone  for  the  base  course  in  the  drive  may  be  quarried  on  the 
property.-  -See  page  58 


58 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 


Fig.  58.— A  "  Tarvia 


AN  IDEAL  BITUMINOUS  ROAD 

macadam  road.     Free  from  dust  and  of  good  wearing  qualities.— 
See  page  59 


at  a  right  angle  to  the  side  Une  of  the  drive.  Very  often  this  large 
stone  can  be  found  on  the  property  (Fig.  57).  After  the  stones  are 
placed  they  should  be  gone  over  with  napping  hammers  and  made 
fairly  even  by  breaking  off  the  irregular  edges;  the  pieces  of  stone 
so  broken  off  should  be  used  to  fill  in  chinks.  Over  this  should  be 
placed  three  inches  of  one  and  one-half  inch  stone.  Then  a  light 
covering  of  three-quarter  inch  stone  may  be  placed  as  a  binder  and 
finished  with  clean  breaker  dust.  The  drive  should  be  rolled  be- 
fore and  after  placing  the  three-quarter  inch  stone,  with  a  roller 
weighing  not  less  than  five  tons.  The  three-quarter  inch  stone 
and  the  dust  should  never  be  mixed  together;  the  dust  will  work 
through  and  the  stone  find  the  surface,  making  it  rough  and  trouble- 
some. When  rolling  the  finished  surface  it  should  be  wetted  con- 
stantly until  a  wave  of  water  appears  in  front  of  the  roller. 

BITUMINOUS   ROADS 

The  automobile  is  a  new  factor  to  be  figured  with  in  the  con- 
struction of  drives,  as  we  find  the  waterbound  roads  are  not  very 


CONSTRUCTION    OF    WALKS   AND    DRIVES 


59 


cr  o 


Fig.  59. 


CONSTRUCTION  OF  A  CEMENT  APPROACH 
-Showing  the  construction  of  a  cement  driveway  approach 


satisfactory  when  subjected  to  the  wear  and  tear  of  motor  travel. 
Dust  prevention  must  also  be  considered. 

To  strengthen  the  wearing  surface  of  the  macadam  and  reduce 

the  amount  of  dust,  some  kind  of  refined  tar  is  best  (Fig.  58).  There 

are  many  such  preparations  on  the  market  today  and  each  carries 
with  it  proper  specifications  for  applying. 

CEMENT   SURFACING 

In  some  localities  it  is  impossible  to  secure  a  stone  with  any 
adhesive  qualities.  Where  such  a  condition  exists  run  a  cement 
grout,  consisting  of  one  part  Portland  cement  to  three  parts  of  sharp 
sand,  over  the  surface.  Over  this  place  a  thin  layer  of  the  breaker 
dust  and  go  over  with  a  splint  broom,  thus  roughening  up  the  sur- 
face to  prevent  skidding.  This  makes  a  good,  practical  driveway 
that  will  stand  a  lot  of  trafific  without  unraveling  or  costing  anything 
for  maintenance. 

CEMENT   .APPROACHES 

At  the  point  where  the  drive  intersects  the  highway  it  is  advis- 
able to  pave  the  surface  from  the  outside  edge  of  the  gutter  to  the 
property  line  (Fig.  59).  It  is  necessary,  usually,  to  increase  the 
drive  incline  at  this  point  to  meet  the  gutter  grade,  and  if  macadam 
is  used  there  is  constant  erosion.  The  paved  surface  prevents  this 
and  affords  a  hard  surface  for  pedestrians.     Such  an  approach  should 


60 


PRACTICAL  LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


CONSTRUCTION    OF    WALKS   AND    DRIVES 


61 


be  constructed  of  cement  or  brick.     If  cement  is  used  the  surface 
should  be  roughened  to  prevent  sUpping. 

GUTTERS 

Where  the  walk  or  drive  grade  is  not  steep  gutters  will  not  be 
required  and  a  few  catch  basins  will  take  care  of  the  surface  water 
(Fig.  ()0).  If  the  surface  over  which  the  water  gathers  is  great  enough 
the  road  will  be  more  pleasing  and  serviceable  when  defined  by  a 
curb  or  gutter. 


Pr-we^v^ay 


Fig.  61. 


-Section  of  a  concrete  gutter  and 
curb. — See  page  59 


Fig.    62. — A    section    showing    the    con 
struction  of  a  rubblestone  gutter  and  curb 


CEMENT    GUTTERS 

Where  gutters  (Fig.  61)  are  required  the  most  satisfactory, 
although  undoubtedly  artificial  in  appearance,  is  the  cement  curb 
and  gutter  combined.  This  forms  a  good,  substantial  feature 
against  which  to  finish  the  sod  on  one  side  and  the  road  metal  on  the 
other.  The  foundation  on  heavy  soils  should  be  extended  to  a 
depth  of  eighteen  inches. 

Use  clean  boilerhouse  cinders  or  stone  spawls  as  a  foundation 
to  within  five  inches  of  the  finished  grade;  on  this  place  the  concrete, 
consisting  of  a  mixture  of  one  part  Portland  cement  to  four  parts 
of  sand  and  five  parts  of  crushed  stone.  The  finish  coat  should 
consist  of  one  part  Portland  cement  and  two  parts  of  sharp  sand, 
troweled  even  and  hard. 

RUBBLE    GUTTERS 

The  rubble  curl:)  and  gutter  (Fig.  62),  built  of  quarried  or  field 
stone  laid  on  edge  and  swept  with  chips,  is  very  suitable  for  sub- 
urban and  country  districts.  Such  gutters  should  be  not  less  than 
eighteen  inches  wide. 

An  objectionable  feature  of  the  rubble  gutter  is  that  the  grass 
and  weeds  grow  up  through  the  interstices.  Where  the  stone  is 
laid  on  a  good  foundation  of  clean  cinders,  twelve  or  eighteen  inches 


62  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

deep,  the  joints  may  be  grouted  with  Portland  cement  mortar,  using 
three  parts  sand  and  one  part  cement.  This  grouting  will  prevent 
the  grass  and  weed  growth. 

BRICK    GUTTERS 

Brick  gutters  should  always  be  laid  on  a  four  inch  concrete  base 
and  firmed  with  either  bar  sand  or  a  cement  grouting. 

A  concave  brick  gutter,  eighteen  inches  wide,  should  have  a 
slope  of  three  inches  to  the  center.  If  a  curb  is  desired  the  brick 
should  be  laid  on  end  with  the  gutter  finishing  against  it. 

SOD    GUTTERS 

The  most  pleasing  gutters  are  those  of  turf.  Such  gutters  should 
be  concave,  with  a  slope  toward  the  center  of  from  one  to  two  inches 
to  the  foot.  A  gutter  four  feet  wide  should  slope  two  inches  to  the 
center.  A  gutter  six  feet  wide  should  slope  one  inch  to  the  foot, 
giving  a  three  inch  depression  as  the  minimum.  The  carrying  ca- 
pacity is  increased  by  the  increased  breadth. 

In  sod  gutters  inlets  are  necessary  to  carry  off  the  surface  water. 
The  number  required  will  be  governed  by  the  area  to  be  drained. 
In  rolling  ground  with  large  areas  it  is  usually  necessary  to  place 
them  every  fifty  feet.  When  building  a  driveway  where  sod  gutters 
have  been  adopted  the  drive  surface  should  be  finished  even  with 
the  soil  so  that  the  water  will  run  off  into  the  gutters. 

Turf  gutters  should  be  formed  of  tough  sod  cut  from  an  old 
pasture.  Before  laying  the  sod,  the  concave  surface  should  be  covered 
with  three  or  four  inches  of  good  soil  and  made  true  and  even  wath 
a  template.  This  can  easily  be  pulled  along  as  the  soil  is  deposited 
and  a  uniform  surface  made  for  the  reception  of  the  sod. 

CARE    OF    SOD    GUTTERS 

Every  Spring  the  edge  of  the  gutter  should  be  tamped  down 
along  the  edge  of  the  drive,  as  the  frost  will  heave  it  higher  than  the 
road  metal.  It  should  be  rolled  when  the  lawn  is  gone  over  in  early 
Spring  after  the  frost  is  out  of  the  ground. 

CATCH   BASINS 

Catch  basins  (Fig.  .56)  may  be  constructed  of  concrete  or  brick, 
whichever  material  is  most  convenient  to  the  operation.  The  con- 
crete construction  is  simple  and  should  consist  of  a  mixture  of  one 
part  Portland  cement,  three  parts  of  sand,  and  four  parts  of  crushed 


CONSTRUCTION   OF    WALKS   AND    DRIVES 


63 


Stone.  Side  walls  should  be  six  inches  thick  plumb,  and  an  opening 
left  for  the  outlet  pipe  one  foot  above  the  bottom  of  the  basin.  This 
will  allow  a  space  for  the  sand  and  debris  to  collect. 

The  side  walls  for  brick  catch  basins  should  be  at  least  nine 
inches  thick,  built  of  straight,  hard,  building  bricks  that  will  ring 
clear  when  hit  together.  They  should  be  laid  in  a  Portland  cement 
mortar  consisting  of  one  part  cement  to  two  parts  of  sharp  sand. 


UlZI 


Fig.  63. — A  good  type  of 
catch  basin  grating 


Fig.  64. — A  catch  basin  designed  to  receive  a 
large  volume  of  water 


GRATINGS 

Catch  basins  should  be  provided  with  gratings  (Fig.  63)  with 
ample  open  spaces  between  the  bars  for  a  free  intake  of  all  water. 
Small  openings  become  clogged  with  leaves  and  are  useless. 

Where  a  large  volume  of  water  is  to  be  taken  care  of  it  is  well 
to  build  the  basin. back  six  or  eight  inches  beyond  the  iron  grating 
and  place  a  coping  stone  o\'.er  it,  with  an  opening  three  inches  wide, 
for  the  full  length  of  the  grating  (Fig.  ()4). 

CONNECTING   CATCH   BASINS    WITH   DRAINAGE    LINES 

Where  road  drainage  is  connected  to  the  sewage  disposal  system 
it  is  necessary  to  ha\-e  a  running  trap  between  the  sewerage  line  and 
each  connection  with  the  catch  basins.  In  this  event  care  should 
be  exercised  to  see  that  all  pieces  of  pipe  are  free  from  flaws  and  the 
joints  packed  with  oakum  before  cementing  the  sections  together. 


64 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


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LAWNS:     GRADING   AND    UPKEEP  65 


CHAPTER  V 


LAWNS- GRADING.  CONSTRUCTION  AND  UPKEEP 

No  single  feature  connected  with  the  landscape  development 
of  a  property  is  so  important  as  the  lawn.  We  speak  here  of  a  lawn 
principally  in  the  sense  of  an  open  grass  plot,  not  in  the  composite 
sense  of  turf  and  plantings  that  we  often  think  of  when  the  term 
"lawn"  is  used.  Possibly  the  old  English  term  "greensward"  would 
be  a  better  word  to  use  to  describe  a  lawn  in  its  single  meaning, 
and  we  may  revert  to  its  use  occasionally  to  keep  the  thought  fixed. 

The  lawn  is  the  base  that  we  must  work  on  to  make  a  pleasing 
landscape  picture.  It  is  the  central  feature  and  requires  strict 
attention  to  all  details.  It  is  the  element  in  landscape  gardening 
that  continually  lends  or  takes.  It  h  framed  by  pleasing  shrubbery 
borders  and,  in  turn,  frames  lovely  vistas.  Made  perfectly  level, 
and  hedged  in  tightly  with  border  plantings,  the  whole  property 
looks  cramped  and  contracted.  Given  gentle  slopes  and  slight  de- 
pressions, and  allowed  to  run  ofT  here  and  there,  a  feeling  of  expanse 
is  created.  A  house  set  lower  than  the  street  level  may,  by  care  in 
the  lawn  grading,  be  made  to  appear  much  higher  than  it  is.  In 
these  and  in  many  other  ways  does  the  lawn  enter  largely  into  the 
best  landscape  development. 

PRELIMINARY  PREPARATIONS 

Good  greenswards  are  not  often  met  with,  and  the  majority  of 
failures  may  be  traced  to  lack  of  forethought  in  the  making,  that  is, 
lack  of  forethought  in  the  physical  construction.  Too  often  soil 
and  seed  alone  enter  into  the  question  and  no  thought  of  drainage 
or  future  upkeep.  Such  lawns  are  never  a  success  and  can  never 
be  improved  unless  torn  up  and  a  fresh  start  made. 

Let  us  look  well,  then,  to  a  right  beginning,  so  that  our  finished 
lawn  will  be  a  unison  of  the  proper  relation  to  house,  best  drainage 
and  construction,  proper  seeding,  and  ease  of  upkeep.  In  order  to 
do  this  it  is  essential  that  we  familiarize  ourselves  thoroughly  with 
all  existing  physical  conditions  before  the  work  is  started. 


66 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


A  LAWN  ASCENDING  FROM  A  HIGHWAY 

Fig.  65. — Cross  section  showing  proper  grading  of  portion  around  a  residence  located  on 

ground  ascending  from  the  highway. — See  page  67 

Before  the  excavation  of  the  cellar  is  made  all  the  top  soil,  which 
extends  to  a  depth  of  from  four  to  twelve  inches,  should  be  removed 
and  stacked  in  convenient  piles  for  future  use.  It  is  well,  too,  to 
remove  the  surface  soil  for  a  distance  of  fifteen  to  twenty-five  feet 
beyond  the  lines  of  all  the  buildings,  as  the  construction  work  is 
apt  to  destroy  all  the  soil  close  by. 

This  important  feature  is  often  overlooked,  for,  as  a  general  rule, 
the  landscape  gardener  is  not  called  in  for  advice  until  the  residence 
and  other  buildings  have  been  completed. 

Very  frequently,  too,  houses  are  not  properly  situated  as  regards 
the  elevation  of  the  floor  level  above  the  surrounding  grades  of  the 
ground.  It  has  been  the  author's  experience  that  a  large  percentage 
of  the  residences  have  been  set  entirely  too  low.  It  is  very  much 
better  to  err  in  the  opposite  direction,  as  height  may  be  overcome 
by  a  proper  planting  at  the  base  of  the  house  in  case  there  is  not  a 
sufficient  amount  of  soil  available  to  make  the  necessary  fill. 


yrA 


'™==s-_j^^=aHSga 


A  LAWN  DESCENDING  FROM  A  HIGHWAY 

Fig.  66. — Cross  section  showing  proper  grading  around  a  residence  located   on  ground 

descending  from  the  highway. — See  page  67 


LAWNS:     GRADING   AND    UPKEEP 


67 


v"*'" 


Fig.  67  ^^ 


Fig.     67. — A    section    through    foundation    wa 
showing  the  revised  grade  at  the  point  where  th^ 
natural    grade    slopes    toward    the    house.     The 
line  CC  is  the  line  of  the  natural  grade;    the  line 
BB  is  the  revised  surface  grade;    the  line  AA  is 

the  revised  sub-grade.     An  agricultural  tile  is  provided  at  the  base  of  the  well  to  prevent 

seepage  running  into  the  cellar. 

Fig.  68. — A  section  showing  the  construction  of  a  dry  well  for  surface  water. — See  page  68 


LAWNS   ASCENDING   FROM   HIGHWAYS 

If  the  house  is  located  on  ground  ascending  from  the  highway, 
with  still  higher  ground  in  the  rear  of  the  house  site,  it  is  necessary 
to  provide  a  plateau  for  the  building  (Fig.  65).  This  should  be 
approached  with  a  bold  hand  and  the  cutting  out  behind  the  build- 
ing made  broad  and  generous  to  avoid  a  sense  of  being  shut  in.  The 
revised  surface  should  be  sloped  away  from  the  building  in  all  direc- 
tions. The  minimum  fall  on  the  axis  of  the  building  should  be 
one-eighth  of  an  inch  to  the  foot,  while  from  the  center  toward  the 
ends  of  the  building  at  least  one-quarter  of  an  inch  to  the  foot  should 
be  provided  for. 


LAWNS   DESCENDING   FROM   HIGHWAYS 

Somewhat  the  same  conditions  prevail  on  ground  descending 
from  the  highway  (Fig.  66).  In  both  instances  the  precaution 
of  waterproofing  the  house  foundations,  either  with  a  tar  paint  or 
by  building  them  of  waterproofed  concrete,  should  not  be  over- 
looked. 

SUB- GRADE 

The  lawn  surface  around  the  house  should  have  a  minimum 
slope  of  one-half  an  inch  to  the  foot  and  care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  sub-grade  has  a  similar  inclination  (Fig.  67).  No  mat- 
ter how  great  the  surface  slope  away  from  the  house  is,  if  the  old 


68  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

natural  grade  pitches  toward  the  foundation  walls  the  water  perco- 
lates through  the  new  fill  and  runs  down  the  foundation  walls  to 
the  cellar.  Such  a  condition  may  also  be  overcome  by  filling  in 
around  the  house  with  a  stiff  clay,  if  available,  this  to  be  thoroughly 
tamped  or,  still  better,  puddled.  This  sub-grade  should  have  a  slope 
of  at  least  two  inches  to  the  foot  for  a  distance  of  four  feet  from  the 
foundation  walls.  Beyond  that  it  may  be  reduced  to  one-half  inch 
to  the  foot. 

UNDERDRAINAGE 

Occasionally  the  ground  falls  away  enough  to  have  a  point  lower 
than  the  cellar  floor.  In  such  instances  it  is  a  wise  precaution 
against  a  damp  cellar  to  introduce  a  three  or  four  inch  agricultural 
tile  around  the  base,  laid  with  open  joints  and  half  collars  placed 
over  each  joint  to  prevent  the  soil  from  falling  in  and  clogging  the 
orifice.  Where  drive  and  walk  drains  exist  this  line  of  pipe  may 
be  connected  with  that  system. 

LAWN    GRADING 

Generally  speaking,  the  surface  beyond  the  buildings  may  be 
left  as  found  so  far  as  the  contour  of  the  ground  is  concerned;  the 
exception  being  small  properties  where  it  is  possible  to  modify  all 
lines  of  grade  to  suit  the  house  without  entailing  too  great  an 
expense. 

LARGER   AREAS 

On  larger  properties  it  is  only  necessary  to  soften  steep  depres- 
sions or  humps  by  lengthening  the  slopes,  provided,  of  course,  that 
the  surface  water  may  be  drained  off.  Where  depressions  are  large 
and  the  work  entailed  to  carry  the  surface  water  of!  over  the  surface 
is  too  extensive,  a  catch  basin  should  be  provided.  From  this  the 
drain  may  be  projected  to  a  lower  point  of  grade  or  to  a  small  well. 
Such  a  well  should  be  about  three  feet  in  diameter  and  four  feet 
deep  (Fig.  68),  this  to  be  filled  with  stone  to  within  twelve  inches  of 
the  top,  over  which  place  the  top  soil.  Draining  to  such  a  well  is 
preferable  to  running  it  out  on  the  surface.  Drainage  to  a  well 
spreads  by  seepage  over  a  large  area.  In  case  a  sewer  line  has  been 
installed  in  the  streets  it  is  much  better  to  connect  with  it,  but 
extreme  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  the  line  of  pipe  is  properly 
trapped  to  prevent  sewer  gas  from  backing  up  in  the  pipe  lines. 


LAWNS:     GRADING   AND   UPKEEP 


69 


''^''''--''>mr,.,r^^ 


CORRECT  GRADING  FOR  HOUSE  BELOW  PAVEMENT  GRADE 

Fig.  70. — A  section  showing  revised  grade  for  lawn  when  the  house  is  located  lower  than  the 

pavement 


HOUSE    BELOW    P.WEMENT    GRADE 

Quite  frequently  topographical  conditions  are  encountered  that 
make  it  necessary  to  set  the  house  below  the  grade  of  the  pave- 
ment. (Fig.  70.)  In  such  cases  the  site  selected  should  be  just  as 
far  back  from  the  property  line  as  practicable,  the  slope  from  the 


''''''^^^'^^: 


'''r»»>»„///ipr/9ffr;ff/»^//mf/^ 


CORRECT  GRADING  WHEN  HOUSE  IS  ON  STREET  LEVEL 

Fig.  71. — A  section  showing  concave  lawn  surface  where  the  pavement  and  house  grades 

are  on  the  same  level.     The  convex  surface  as  shown  by  the  dotted  line  is  not  so  good  as  it 

apparently  shortens  the  distance. — See  page  70 

house  to  a  point  one-tifth  to  one-third  the  total  distance  from  the 
house  to  the  property  line  to  be  made  rather  sharp,  with  the  longer 
slope  from  the  property  line  to  the  established  low  point.  This 
treatment  will  seemingly  lift  the  house  up  and  is  more  pleasing  than 
a  grade  with  the  longer  slope  falling  from  the  house. 


TREATMENT  OF  TERRACES 

Fig.  72. — When  the  distance  CC  is  less  than  BB  it  is  better  to  eliminate  the  slope  BC  and 

grade  along  the  lines  of  AA. — See  page  70 


70  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE    GARDENING 

Should  the  point  of  grade  at  the  house  and  at  the  pavement 
be  on  the  same  level  (Fig.  71),  and  provided  the  house  is  located 
well  back  from  the  property  line,  the  appearance  will  be  greatly 
enhanced  by  making  a  depression  between  the  house  and  the  street. 
To  do  this  the  elevation  of  the  ground  at  one  side  must  be  below  the 
lowest  point  of  depression.  It  is  very  apparent  that  a  lawn  graded 
to  such  a  profile  would  give  a  sense  of  distance  while,  on  the  other 
hand,  a  convex  line  would  tend  to  shorten  the  distance. 

TERRACES 

When  to  introduce  terraces  is  a  problem  that  requires  careful 
consideration.  On  a  ground  slightly  undulating  and  where  the 
surface  slopes  are  rather  gentle,  the  effect  is  more  pleasing  if  the 
lawn  rolls  right  up  to  the  walls  of  the  house.  On  more  rugged 
ground,  where  there  is  a  great  variation  in  levels  between  the  various 
corners  of  the  house,  a  level  plateau  surrounding  the  house  is  better. 

The  width  of  the  terrace  will  depend  somewhat  on  the  size  of 
the  building  and  the  lot;  ordinarily  it  should  not  be  Tess  than 
fourteen  feet;  if  there  is  to  be  a  paved  terrace  or  a  porch,  the 
turf  terrace,  being  of  different  texture,  should  be  at  least  one-third 
greater  in  width.  It  ip  very  unsatisfactory  to  have  a  terrace  of 
greater  breadth  than'  the  remaining  area  between  the  bottom  of 
the  slope  and  thie  line  of  the  property. 

When  a  condition  exists  wherein  the  space  is  not  great  enough  to 
treat  it  as  above  recommended  it  is  more  advisable  to  have  the 
slope  extend  from  the  plateau  at  the  house  to  the  property  line  by 
a  gentle  inclination  (Fig.  72).  The  surface  should  slope  at  least 
one-half  inch  to  the  foot,  and  the  slope  from  the  terrace  to  the  sur- 
rounding lawn  grade  should  not  be  steeper  than  one  foot  to  two  feet, 
while  one  to  three  is  much  preferable  as  the  grass  is  more  easily  cut 
on  such  a  slope  than  on  one  with  a  sharper  inclination  (Fig.  73). 
The  slope  should  always  be  uniform  and  the  line  next  to  the  house 
should  be  parallel  to  the  building,  while  the  bottom  line  of  the  ter- 
race may  vary  according  to  the  slope  of  the  abutting  lawn.  When 
close  to  the  house,  where  straight  lines  predominate,  it  is  best  to 
have  two  lines  of  the  terrace  well  defined. 

A  terrace  along  a  property  line  (Fig.  74)  may  be  graded  to  a 
convex  surface  at  the  top,  and  at  the  bottom  it  may  be  given  a  con- 
cave surface,  thus  gracefully  merging  the  steeper  grades  into  the 
more  gentle  ones  at  top  and  bottom. 


LAWNS:     GRADING   AND    UPKEEP 


71 


TREATMENT  OF  TERRACES 

Fig.   74. — A  section  showing  convex  and 

concave  lines  at  the  top  and  bottom 

of   the   slope   to   meet  the  existing 

grades    gracefully. — See   page    70 


TREATMENT 
OF 
TERRACES 
Fig.    75. — A  sec- 
tion showing  lines 

of  a  slope  and  the  space  between  the  bottom  of 
the  slope  and  the  hedge,  where  a  hedge  is  to  be 
provided  at  the  toe  of  the  slope. 


Where  hedges  are  to  be  planted 
along  property  lines,  at  the  top 
of  the  terrace,  or  at  the  bottom, 
which  is  the  better  place  for  them, 
the  lines  should  be  decided  (Fig. 
75) .  When  a  hedge  is  to  be  planted 
at  the  bottom  of  a  slope,  the  toe 
of  the  slope  should  be  at  least  three 
feet  back  from  the  line.  This  will 
»  provide  a  level  space 

H  G<^<£f  C^    to  stand  on  and  trim 
^-*  the  hedge  with  much 

more  comfort  than  standing 
on  a  slope.  The  plants,  too, 
will  thrive  better.  Slopes 
should  always  be  sodded 
where  a  good,  clean  turf  is 
procurable. 


LAWN   MAKING 

While  the  building  is  in  course  of  construction  the  soil  will  become 
very  much  compacted  by  the  teams  and  mechanics,  a  condition 
which  is  rather  bad  for  the  sustaining  of  grass.  All  the  areas  which 
have  been  trodden  down  hard  should  be  loosened  up  before  the 
surface  soil  is  replaced.  Better  turf  can  usually  be  grown  on  soil 
that  is  broken  up  to  some  depth. 

When  the  grading  is  being  done  it  is  well  to  take  account  of  the 
nature  of  the  soil  and  ascertain  what  treatment  may  be  necessary 
for  the  production  of  a  satisfactory  stand  of  grass.  If  the  soil  is 
of  a  sandy  or  gravelly  nature,  or  if  it  is  lacking  in  humus,  barnyard 
manure  should  be  spread  and  thoroughly  assimilated  with  the  top 
soil.  Should  the  soil  be  of  a  stiff,  clayey  nature,  equal  parts  of  sand 
and  manure  should  be  mixed  through  the  top  soil.  This  will  make 
the  soil  more  porous  and  the  rain  and  air  will  reach  the  roots  of  the 
grass. 

Another  point  to  look  to,  at  this  time,  is  the  digging  and  prepa- 
ration of  holes  for  any  trees  or  specimen  shrubs  that  it  is  planned  to 
locate  on  the  lawn.  Such  work  can  be  done  to  much  better  advan- 
tage now  than  if  left  until  after  the  rolling  and  seeding. 


72  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  raise  the  grade  on  ground  where  large 
trees  are  established.  A  fill  of  a  foot  or  more  of  soil  over  the  roots  of 
most  trees  will  kill  them  very  quickly.  Such  trees  may  be  preserved 
by  building  a  dry  retaining  wall  with  a  diameter  at  least  two  feet 
greater  than  the  trunk.  If  the  lawn  is  of  sufficient  size  and  the  trees 
form  a  clump,  a  depression  may  be  left  around  them. 

Now  that  the  rough  work  is  out  of  the  way,  drainage  attended 
to,  grades  established  and  terraces  built,  the  question  of  the  real 
making  of  the  new  lawn  confronts  us. 

The  changed  conditions  make  it  necessary  to  provide  new  soil 
close  to  the  house  and  on  properties  of  small  dimensions  it  may  be 
necessary  to  resurface  the  entire  area.  Wherever  fill  is  needed  just 
as  good  soil  as  can  be  procured  should  be  used  and  at  least  four 
inches  of  good  top  soil  provided  for  the  surface. 

If  the  old  turf  needs  remaking  it  should  be  dug  or  plowed  to 
the  depth  of  a  spade,  the  soil  being  turned  well  over,  stones  and 
weed  roots  removed  and  large  clods  broken  up. 

Manuring  or  fertilizing  is  an  important  question.  Experts 
claim  that  one  ton  of  grass  removes  from  the  soil  thirty-four  pounds 
of  nitrogen,  thirty-six  pounds  of  potash  and  seventeen  pounds  of 
phosphoric  acid.  It  is  largely  these  substances,  therefore,  that 
must  be  provided.  Stable  manure,  if  obtainable,  is  very  satis- 
factory. Apply  at  the  rate  of  one  load  per  one  hundred  square 
yards  and  dig  or  fork  it  into  the  soil.  Care  should  be  exercised  to 
see  that  the  manure  is  not  buried  too  deeply,  else  it  will  not  be  with- 
in reach  of  the  new  young  grass— four  inches  is  a  good  average 
depth.  A  good  commercial  fertilizer,  containing  four  per  cent, 
nitrogen,  eight  per  cent,  phosphoric  acid  and  ten  per  cent,  potash, 
will  be  found  to  give  very  satisfactory  results.  This  should  be 
apphed  at  the  rate  of  ten  pounds  per  one  hundred  square  yards  and 
raked  in.  Fertilizers  that  are  highly  soluble  should  not  be  used  on 
sandy  soils,  as  they  will  quickly  dissolve  after  rainfalls,  be  washed 
beyond  the  reach  of  the  roots  and  so  wasted.  This  same  remark 
covers  all  commercial  fertilizers  applied  in  a  wet  season  or  a  time  of 
drought.  In  one  case  they  are  washed  away,  and  in  the  other  they 
lie  about  the  surface  and  waste. 

After  manuring,  the  ground  should  be  prepared  to  receive  the 
seed.  The  soil  should  be  carefully  gone  over  with  an  iron  toothed 
rake,  all  large  stones  removed,  clods  broken  up  and  weed  roots  taken 
out,  then  rolled  and  raked  until  the  surface  becomes  firm  and  fine; 
it  should  be  so  firm  that  walking  over  it  leaves  no  footprints. 


LAWNS:     GRADING    AND    UPKEEP 


73 


74  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

SODDING 

The  spaces  along  the  walks  and  drives  should  be  sodded  to 
maintain  the  edge.  It  is  well,  too,  to  sod  the  space  directly  against 
the  house,  to  prevent  any  soiling  of  the  wall  surfaces  by  splashing. 

SEEDING  * 

Time  of  sowing  and  the  best  seed  are  subjects  of  equal  impor- 
tance. Unless  we  look  well  to  these  two  essentials  we  may  have 
our  trouble  in  the  manuring  and  preparation  of  the  ground  set  to 
naught.  Spring  and  Fall  are  the  best  seasons  for  sowing,  prefer- 
ably the  months  of  April  and  September.  Lawns  seeded  late  in  the 
Fall  should  be  given  a  mulch  as  a  Winter  protection. 

GRASS   SEEDS 

The  varieties  of  grasses  suitable  for  the  making  of  a  good  lawn 
are  limited.  The  general  desire  is  for  a  close  turf  of  pleasing  color. 
Soil  and  climatic  conditions  will  enter  largely  into  the  right  selec- 
tion. (The  recommendations  which  follow  apply  to  the  Atlantic 
coast  region  north  of  Washington,  D.  C,  and  the  Allegheny  region 
as  far  south  as  northern  Georgia.) 

Kentucky  Blue  Grass  is  the  best  all-around  lawn  grass  and  will 
thrive  in  any  good  lawn,  providing  it  receives  a  generous  but  not 
excessive  amount  of  moisture. 

In  soils  of  very  light  character  Red  Top,  Rhode  Island  Bent, 
Creeping  Bent  or  White  Clover  are  good. 

On  account  of  the  varied  conditions  met  with,  a  mixture  including 
the  above  named  kinds  in  varying  proportion,  is  usually  most  satis- 
factory. 

Seed  of  the  highest  grade  from  a  rehable  house  should  be  pur- 
chased and  sown  at  the  rate  of  five  bushels  (100  lbs.)  to  the  acre;  or, 
one  cjuart  to  300  sq.  ft.  This  will  allow  for  a  very  generous  seeding, 
which  is  much  to  be  preferred  to  seed  sparsely  scattered. 

Grass  seeds  will  vary  in  weight  as  to  the  number  of  pounds  to  the 
bushel.  In  recleaned  seeds  of  a  high  grade.  Blue  Grass  should  run 
from  twelve  to  fifteen  pounds  to  the  bushel;  Red  Top  extra  re- 
cleaned,  thirty  pounds  to  the  bushel;  Creeping  Bent,  twenty  pounds; 
Rhode  Island  Bent,  fourteen  pounds;  White  Clover,  sixty  pounds. 
A  good  grass  seed  mixture  should  average  twenty  pounds  to  the 
bushel. 

A  calm  day  should  be  chosen  for  the  seeding,  otherwise  it  is 


LAWNS:     GRADING   AND    UPKEEP 


75 


76  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

hard  to  get  an  equal  distribution.  The  seeding  should  be  done  in 
two  directions,  dividing  the  seed  into  two  lots,  one  lot  being  sown 
at  a  right  angle  to  the  other.  After  sowing,  the  seed  should  be 
covered  to  a  depth  of  about  one-quarter  of  an  inch;  this  may  be 
done  by  raking  the  surface  lightly.  The  ground  should  then  be 
rolled  with  a  light  roller.  When  the  young  grass  is  about  one  and 
one-half  inches  high  it  should  be  rolled  again  and  the  first  cutting 
made  when  about  two  inches  high.  The  machine  should  be  set 
quite  high  for  the  first  cutting.  All  bare  and  thin  places  should 
be  promptly  reseeded. 

The  lawn  having  been  thoroughly  established  it  is  very  essential 
that  careful  and  systematic  attention  be  given  to  the  upkeep;  other- 
wise it  will  deteriorate  very  quickly. 

Weeds  are  always  a  menace  and,  linked  with  Fall  Grass,  should 
be  continually  fought  against.  Newly  made  lawns  often  contain 
many  weeds  of  an  annual  nature  which  disappear  after  a  few  cut- 
tings. The  perennial  weeds  are  persistent  and  can  only  be  effective- 
ly removed  by  hand.  The  dandelion  and  plantain  are  exceedingly 
troublesome  and  must  be  removed,  root  and  top.  This  may  be 
done  with  a  sharp  chisel  or  a  three-pronged  fork.  Weeding 
forks  for  this  purpose  are  to  be  had  at  all  seed  stores.  Boys  can 
usually  be  had  to  do  this  work  at  the  rate  of  a  few  cents  per 
hundred. 

During  moist  weather,  when  the  grass  is  making  vigorous 
growth,  it  should  be  cut  about  once  in  a  week  and  an  occasional 
rolling  will  help  greatly  to  keep  the  surface  firm.  Grass  does  poorly 
on  a  loose  surface.  In  hot,  dry  weather  the  blades  in  the  machine 
should  be  raised  so  that  the  grass  will  be  left  of  sufficient  length 
to  afford  some  protection  to  the  roots.  Too  close  cutting  during 
Midsummer  weakens  the  turf  and  makes  it  more  susceptible  to  the 
inroads  of  Fall  grass. 

Every  Spring  a  fertilizer  should  be  applied  that  will  supply  per 
acre  one  hundred  pounds  of  potash  and  fifty  pounds  of  available 
phosphoric  acid.  Apply  at  the  same  time  a  top  dressing  of  three 
hundred  pounds  of  nitrate  of  soda.  The  nitrate  should  be  applied 
again  at  the  end  of  June,  using  one  hundred  pounds  to  the  acre. 
Such  fertilizers  are  to  be  preferred  to  stable  manures,  as  they 
are  less  offensive,  require  less  labor  to  apply,  and  are  free  of  weed 
seeds. 

It   is  possible  sometimes  to  renovate  a   wornout   lawn   without 


LAWNS:     GRADING   AND    UPKEEP 


77 


entirely  remaking,  by  top  dressing  with  a  compost  consisting  of 
equal  parts  of  soil  and  manure,  to  which  about  ten  per  cent,  of  tank- 
age has  been  added.  Such  a  top  dressing  is  recommended  also  for 
lawns  made  on  shallow  soils. 

In  the  Southern  States  it  is  quite  impossible  to  establish  a  per- 
manent greensward  that  will  look  well  at  all  seasons.  The  only 
grass  that  will  succeed  with  any  degree  of  satisfaction  is  the  Ber- 
muda Grass  (Capriola  dactylon).  This  grass  dies  to  the  ground  in 
the  Winter,  but  is  good  during  the  Spring,  Summer  and  early  Au- 
tumn. Lawns  of  this  grass  are  made  by  cutting  up  the  roots  of  old 
plants  and  setting  the  small  tufts  of  root  about  twelve  inches  apart, 
mulching  with  well  rotted  manure.  F"or  Winter  effect  on  terraces 
or  lawn  close  to  the  house  English  perennial  Rye  may  be  sown. 


STUDY  OF  A  HOUSE  LOCATION  ON  A  SMALL  LOT 


rig.  15. — "  The  ideal  location  is  one  where  the  ground  slopes  away  from  the  house  on  all 
four  sides.  " — See  page  20 


78 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


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ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND   SHRUBS         79 


CHAPTER  VI 


ORNAMENTAL  PLANTING  OF  TREES  AND  SHRUBS 

Although  the  drives,  walks  and  topography  contribute  much 
toward  the  general  efifect  of  the  home  grounds,  it  is  upon  the  embel- 
lishment of  the  whole,  through  the  proper  selection  and  arrange- 
ment of  the  ornamental  plantings,  that  we  depend  for  the  picturesque 
beauty  and  grace  of  the  lawn. 

THE    BACKGROUND   FOR    THE    HOUSE 

A  first  consideration  is  a  good  background  for  the  house  and, 
where  one  does  not  already  exist,  plantations  of  trees  should  be 
located  that  will  give  this  effect  as  quickly  as  possible.  In  such 
plantings  it  is  advisable  to  set  more  trees  than  will  be  needed 
eventually,  the  principle  being  that  trees  planted  close  together 
encourage  a  greater  top  growth  and  thus  attain  height  more  quickly 
than  trees  given  ample  space  for  development;  in  the  latter  instance 
much  of  the  strength  going  toward  lateral  growth. 

The  Tulip  Poplar  (Liriodetidron  tulipifera)  is  a  rapid  growing 
tree  with  all  the  needed  qualities  for  a  background  planting.  Lender 
favorable  conditions  the  Tulip  Poplar  will  reach  a  height  of  one 
hundred  or  more  feet.  The  foliage,  rich  and  glossy,  the  attractively 
lobed  leaves,  the  large,  tulip-like  green  and  yellow  flowers,  and  a 
straight,  towering  main  stem  are  all  attributes  of  this  grand  tree. 
If  this  tree  is  used  it  should  be  set  well  back  from  the  house  line,  as 
the  branches  spread  to  such  an  extent  and  rise  to  such  a  height 
that  they  will  form  a  most  pleasing  canopy  over  any  smaller  and 
slower  growing  trees  which  may  be  planted  between  it  and  the 
residence. 

Other  good  trees  for  background  planting  are  Red  Oak  (Quercus 
rubra),  American  Elm  ( Ulmus  americana)  and  Sugar  Maple  {Acer 
saccharum) .  These  trees  are  all  so  well  known  that  a  brief  descrip- 
tion will  suffice.  The  Oak  is,  indeed,  a  majestic  tree  and  well  suited 
to  any  landscape  subject.  Downing  sums  up  its  chief  characteris- 
tics in  these  few  sentences:     "  There  is  a  breadth  about  the  lights 


80  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

and  shadows  reflected  and  embosomed  in  its  foliage,  a  singular  free- 
dom and  boldness  in  its  outline  and  a  pleasing  richness  and  in- 
tricacy in  its  huge  ramifications  of  branch  and  limb  that  render  it 
highly  adapted  to  landscape  purposes."  The  Elm,  while  lacking 
something  of  the  stateliness  of  the  Tulip  Poplar  or  the  majesty  of 
the  Oak,  outrivals  them  both  in  grace  and  elegance.  The  com- 
paratively slender  branches  form  into  long,  graceful  curves  until, 
in  old  trees,  the  light  and  airy  foliage  often  sweeps  the  ground. 
The  Elm  should  only  be  used  when  small  groups  are  required.  These 
trees,  as  a  rule,  are  so  similar  in  form  as  to  be  monotonous  when 
planted  together  in  large  numbers.  The  Maple  is  valued  for  the 
rapidity  of  its  growth,  although  it,  too,  has  fine  form  and  foliage. 
The  Autumn  coloring  of  the  Sugar  Maple,  a  beautiful,  bright  yellow, 
red  and  orange,  is  not  equaled  in  any  other  tree. 

FRAMING   THE    HOUSE 

In  addition  to  a  suitable  background  it  is  essential  that  the  resi- 
dence be  properly  framed  by  plantations  at  both  ends  (Fig.  77). 
The  size  and  character  of  this  framework  will  depend  largely  on 
the  architectural  style  and  the  dimensions  of  the  house.  For  small 
houses,  often  one  specimen  tree,  placed  at  each  end,  is  quite  suf- 
ficient. These  lines  from  Milton  will  convey  the  picture  of  such 
a  frame  much  better  than  a  lengthy  paragraph: 

"  Hard  by,  a  cottage  chimney  smokes 
From  between  two  aged  Oaks." 

Houses  built  on  a  larger  scale  may  require  groupings.  It  is  not 
always  necessary  nor  advisable  to  plant  the  trees  directly  at  the 
ends  of  the  building.  Usually  a  position  forward  of  the  front  line 
gives  a  better  effect. 

TREES    FOR   FRAMING   THE    HOUSE 

Where  horizontal  lines  prevail  in  the  general  architectural 
scheme  trees  of  a  pyramidal  type  should  be  used.  The  Ginkgo 
iSalisburia  adiantifolia),  European  Larch  (Larix  eiiropaea)  and 
Lombardy  Poplar  {Populus  Jastigiata)  are  good  examples  of  such 
trees.  The  Ginkgo  (Fig.  78)  occasionally  assumes  a  broad,  spread- 
ing top,  but  this  type  is  so  infrequently  met  with  that  it  may  be, 
for  all  purposes,  classed  and  used  as  a  pyramidal  tree.  For  plant- 
ing near  the  house  it  is  in  a  class  alone  and  apart.     Briefly,  these 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF    TREES   AND   SHRUBS        81 


•t|'.>^^-' 


Fig.  78. — The    Ginkgo,    or    Maidenhair    Tree    (Salisburia  adiantifoiia) ;    a    good  type    of 
pyramidal  tree.  'Tor  planting  near  a  house  it  is  in  a  class  alone  and  apart." — See  page  80 


82 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENLXG 


Fig.  79. — The  European  Larch  (Larix  europaea);    a  splendid  tree  to  use  near  houses  where 
horizontal  lines  predominate. — See  page  84 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND    SHRUBS        83 


Fig. 


-The  Cedrela  (Cedrela  sinensis).     A  good  type  of  tree  with  spreading  character; 
quick  growing  and  free  from  insect  attacks. — See  page  84 


84  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

are  its  chief  attributes:  Rapid  growth,  neat  tapering  head,  un- 
usual grayish  bark,  immunity  from  insects,  beautiful  leaves  re- 
sembling greatly  in  form  the  leaves  of  the  Maidenhair  fern,  and 
long  life.  The  form  and  outline  harmonize  exceedingly  well  with 
buildings.  The  European  Larch  (Fig.  79)  is  a  cone-bearing  tree 
and  belongs  to  the  Pine  family.  It  is  not  an  evergreen,  however, 
as  it  sheds  its  leaves  in  the  Fall  as  do  the  deciduous  trees.  Perhaps 
its  greatest  charm  is  the  picturesque  appearance  of  even  young 
trees.  It  has  such  an  expression  of  boldness  and  freedom  that, 
planted  near  the  house,  this  effect  must  be  relieved  somewhat 
by  grouping  it  with  smaller  harmonious  trees,  such  as  the 
White  or  Pink  Dogwood  (Fig.  3).  The  Lombardy  Poplar  in  large 
quantities  (Fig.  2)  should  be  introduced  only  on  large  estates 
and  to  frame  great  houses.  When  planted  near  moderately  sized 
dwellings  the  great  height,  often  attained  very  quickly,  is  over- 
whelming. 

When  perpendicular  lines  predominate  in  the  building  the  trees 
planted  close  to  it  should  be  of  a  spreading  character  unless  for 
some  particular  reason  the  perpendicular  lines  are  to  be  accentuated. 
We  have  a  great  variety  of  such  trees  to  choose  from.  If  the  house 
is  large  the  Red  Oak,  White  Oak.  Elm,  Cedrela,  Sugar  Maple  and 
Ash  are  equally  good.  The  Cedrela  (Fig.  SO)  is  a  Chinese  tree  re- 
sembling the  Ailanthus,  but  without  its  objectionable  features. 
It  is  rapid  growing  and  generally  desirable.  Near  medium  or  small 
houses  the  Scarlet  IMaple,  Sweet  Gum,  European  Linden,  Yellow 
Wood  and  Oregon  Maple  all  ha\e  the  needed  characteristics.  The 
Oregon  IMaple  is  uncommon  and  should  be  more  frequently  planted. 
It  somewhat  resembles  the  Sycamore  JVIaple,  but  is  a  more  robust 
grower;   it  has  a  large,  handsome,  dark  green  leaf. 

BASE    PLANTINGS 

Houses  which  set  close  to  the  ground  should  have  no  planting  at 
the  base.  The  turf  should  extend  up  to  the  lines  of  the  porches  or 
paved  terrace,  with  group  plantings  at  the  corners. 

Where  the  floor  line  is  just  enough  above  grade  to  admit  of  base 
plantings  use  plants  dwarf  in  character  (Fig.  81),  with  larger  grow- 
ing \-arieties  at  the  corners  and  in  the  blank  wall  spaces  between 
windows.  An  error  to  avoid  is  the  planting  of  anything  in  front 
of  window  openings  that  will  attain  a  height  great  enough  to  inter- 
fere with  the  light. 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND   SHRUBS        85 

The  outlines  of  base  plantings  should  always  be  sinuous,  ex- 
tending out  at  the  corners  and  receding  to  the  face  of  the  building. 
Where  the  width  of  the  bed  permits,  the  use  of  tall  and  low  growing 
plants  (Fig.  82)  adds  greatly  to  the  effect  from  the  approach. 

A\'HAT   TO   AVOID   IN   BASE    PLANTINGS 

A  popular  practice  today  is  the  use  of  a  miscellaneous  assortment 
of  evergreens  in  beds  close  to  the  house  (Fig.  83).  When  the  plants 
are  small  the  effect  is  undoubtedly  attractive  and  the  contrast  of 
the  blue,  green  and  golden  foliage  pleasing.  Builders  of  suburban 
houses  which  it  is  desired  to  sell  quickly  have  taken  advantage  of 
this  appeal  and,  without  thought  of  the  future,  have  used  these 
evergreen  base  plantings  to  the  exclusion  almost,  in  some  commu- 
nities, of  the  more  desirable  shrubbery  groupings.  This  practice 
should  not  be  followed  in  planting  the  home  grounds.  Many  of 
the  evergreens  used  are  not  dwarf  types  and  soon  outgrow  their 
positions.  The  effect  becomes  monotonous  in  the  extreme  and 
lacks  the  variety  of  foliage,  flower  and  fruit  attainable  by  the  use 
of  a  judicious  selection  of  shrubs  and  broad-leaved  evergreens. 

PLANTS   FOR   BASE   PLANTINGS — SHRUBS 

A  good  selection  of  shrubs  of  a  rather  dwarf  character  can  be 
made  up  from  the  following  list:  Spiraea  Thunbergii,  Spiraea  An- 
thony Waterer,  Deutzia  gracilis,  Caryopteris,  Berberis  Thunbergii, 
Azalea  mollis,  Desmodium  penduliflorum,  Deutzia  Lemoinei,  Daphne 
Mezereum,  Forsythia  suspensa,  Spiraea  arguta,  Amygdalus  nana, 
Ceanothus  americana,  Coriaria  japonica,  Hypericum  aureum, 
Andromeda  speciosa  (Fig.  84).  If  the  planting  admits  the  use  of 
larger  growing  plants  these  varieties  are  splendid  for  use  close  to 
the  house:  Spiraea  Van  Houttei,  Rhodotypos  kerrioides,  Philadel- 
phus  Lemoinei,  Neviusia  alabamensis,  Ligistrum  Regelianum, 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora.  Hydrangea  arborescens  grandi- 
flora  alba,  Callicarpa  purpurea,  Weigela  Eva  Rathke. 

PLANTS   FOR   BASE   PLANTINGS — BROAD-LEAVED   EVERGREENS 

The  broad-leaved  evergreens  are  splendid  for  base  plantings  (Fig. 
77),  and  will  usually  grow  easily  on  any  but  a  due  southern 
exposure.  The  attractiveness  of  the  foliage  in  Winter  recommends 
them  for  liberal  use  in  plantings  near  the  house.  Dwarf  and  tall 
growing   kinds   may   be   had   in   a   diversity   of   form    and   foliage. 


86 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF    TREES   AND    SHRUBS 


87 


88 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENLNG 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF    TREES   AND    SHRUBS 


89 


90 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  85.-Plan 
showing  a  lawn 
planting  around  a 
small  house.  The 
trees  marked  No.  1 
are  placed  for  the 
purpose  of  a  back- 
ground, while  those 
designated  No.  2 
are  arranged  for 
the  framing  of  the 
residence.  The 

belt  plantation, 
shown  in  an  irregu- 
lar fashion,  is  more 
interesting  and 
gives  a  greater  va- 
riety to  the  scene 
than  is  possible 
with  a  straight  bor- 
der. Deciduous 
and  evergreen  trees 
are  shown  at  the 
broad  portions  of 
the  bed  to  give  the 
necessary  height 
and  a  more  pleas- 
ing skyline. — See 
page  9! 


UNITY  IS  NOT  IMPOSSIBLE  ON  SMALL  PLANTINGS 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND   SHRUBS        91 

Among  the  best  are  the  Azaleas,  the  hybrid  Rhododendrons,  the 
Andromedas,  Japanese  Holly,  Aucuba  viridis,  Kalmia  latifolia, 
Laurocerasus,  Abeha  grandiflora,  the  Mahonias,  Leucothoes  and 
Phillyrea. 

UNITY   IN   LAWN   PLANTINGS 

Between  the  house  and  the  boundary  lines  lies  that  portion  of 
the  lawn  which  is  most  difficult  to  handle  and  the  part  that  we 
usually  find  the  least  tastefully  designed.  On  this  part  of  the 
premises  we  have  to  consider  plantings  along  drives,  plantings  along 
walks  and  paths,  lawn  specimens  and  lawn  groups.  These  must  be 
considered  individually  and  yet  so  treated  that  with  the  background, 
plantings  around  the  house,  and  boundary  plantations,  all  will 
combine  to  produce  a  harmonious  whole.  This  we  speak  of  as  unity. 
Unity  is  not  impossible  on  small  properties.  It  may  be  had  by 
keeping  the  greensward  open  and  confining  the  plantings  to  the 
borders  and  along  the  paths  (Fig.  85).  Attempt  only  the  simple, 
if  you  will,  just  grass  and  trees,  and  the  effect  is  much  more  pleasing 
than  a  large  tract  planted  with  no  definite  aim. 

PLANTING   FOR   DETAIL 

It  is  along  the  drives  and  paths  that  we  may  plant  for  the 
beautiful,  as  it  is  here  that  the  observer  is  brought  into  closer  touch 
with  the  individual  plant  and  its  every  detail.  Specimen  plants 
for  such  plantations  should  have,  therefore,  some  unusual  and 
delicate  characteristics,  which  w^ould  most  likely  be  lost  if  placed  at 
a  greater  distance  from  the  eye.  Among  those  which  are  most 
highly  recommended  are  the  cut-leaved  White  Birch,  the  various 
forms  of  the  Japanese  Maple,  the  fern-leaved  Beech,  and  the  Eng- 
ligh  Cork  IVIaple.  The  Birch  and  the  Maple  are  particularly 
handsome. 

Specimens  noted  in  previous  paragraph,  planted  along  the  line 
of  a  drive,  should  be  set  back  about  fifteen  or  twenty  feet  so  as  to 
give  them  a  little  foreground  (Fig.  86).  The  Japanese  Maples  are 
quite  dwarf  and  may  be  planted  closer.  Allow  each  tree  ample 
space  for  perfect  development  and  allow  for  a  stretch  of  green- 
sward between  specimens. 

AVOID   STRAIGHT   LINES 

The  arrangement  should  be  an  avoidance  of  straight  lines.     The 


92 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDEXLNG 


PLANTING  FOR  DETAIL 

Fig.  86. — Deciduous  and  evergreen  trees,  together  with  shrubbery,  at  the  intersection  of 

drive  and  pathway.    The  individual  plants  should  be  so  planted  that  each  will  grow  into 

a  perfect  specimen  of  its  kind. — See  page  91 


ORNAMENTAL   PLANTING   OF   TREES  AND   SHRUBS        93 

larger  growing  trees  should  be  near  the  house  and  the  smaller  kinds 
between  the  house  and  the  entrance.  Large  growing  trees  on  a  small 
lawn  have  a  tendency  to  dwarf  the  area.  One  or  two  large  trees  near 
the  house  will  be  quite  sufficient  in  most  cases. 

AVOID   ROWS    OF   TREES   ALONG   CURVED    DRIVEWAYS 

Lines  of  trees  along  curved  driveways  or  paths  should  be  dis- 
couraged. Groupings  are  much  more  artistic  (Figs.  87  and  88)- 
(See  planting  key,  page  95.) 

LINES    OF   TREES   FOR   STRAIGHT  DRIVEWAYS 

Along  straight  driveways  lines  of  trees  on  either  side  are 
agreeable  and  are  especially  pleasing  where  they  lead  directly  to  the 
portals  of  the  house,  as  is  frequently  seen  on  some  of  our  old  South- 
ern estates  The  best  trees  for  such  purpose  are  the  Sugar  Maple, 
American  Elm,  Red  Oak,  and  European  Linden.  The  trees  should 
be  planted  alternately  rather  than  directly  opposite,  and  should 
be  at  least  thirty-five  feet  apart,  set  back  from  five  to  ten  feet  from 
the  edge  of  the  drive;  of  the  evergreens  the  White  and  Austrian 
Pines  and  the  Norway  Spruce  are  the  most  suitable. 

SPECIMEN   LAWN   TREES 

Specimen  trees  planted  on  the  lawn  should  be  low  branched 
unless  it  is  desirable  to  maintain  a  view  under  the  overhanging 
limbs.  Surface  rooting  trees,  such  as  the  soft  or  Silver  Maple, 
should  not  be  used,  as  it  is  difficult  to  maintain  a  lawn  under  them. 
The  Oaks  (Fig.  89)  are  deep  rooted  and  almost  unsurpassed  as 
lawn  specimens.  The  Sugar  Maple,  the  large  growing  Magnolias, 
Kentucky  Coffee,  American  Ash  (Fig.  90)  and  English  Ash,  Sweet 
Gum  and  the  Elms,  are  among  the  best  deciduous  trees.  Specimen 
evergreens  are  greatly  desirable  and  add  to  the  Winter  aspect. 
Such  splendid  trees  as  Nordmann's  Fir,  Cedar  of  Lebanon  and 
Deodora  Cedar  (Fig.  91),  Hemlock  Spruce,  Silver  Fir,  Blue  Spruce 
(Fig.  92)  and  White  Pine  are  among  the  most  important.  If  one  has 
a  love  of  trees,  it  is  in  the  individual  lawn  specimens  that  a  great 
variety  may  be  had  and,  if  care  be  used  in  the  placing,  the  unity 
will  still  be  preserved.  As  advised  for  specimen  planting  along 
drives,  avoid  straight  lines.  Keep  the  larger  trees  toward  the 
back  and  do  not  crowd  along  the  property  line;  place  the  smaller 
varieties  toward  the  point  of  view. 


94 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE    GARDENING 


Fig.  87. — Groupings  of  trees  and 

shrubs  along  curved  driveways 

are     artistic     and     pleasing. 

Lines    of    trees    should    be 

avoided. — See    page     93 


LAWN    GROUPINGS 

The  lawn  plantations  or  groups,  those  which  are  planted  in  the 
middle  distance,  should  be  pleasing  in  outline  and  so  placed  as  to 
accentuate  the  view  to  some  pleasing  object  beyond.  The  plants 
should  be  so  arranged  in  the  group  that  the  outline  is  flowing  and 
not  stiff  and  regular.  For  the  general  arrangement  and  varieties 
best  suited  to  such  groupings  we  may  take  some  suggestions  from 
Nature,  as  there  are  certain  trees  and  shrubs  which  we  frequently 
find   standing  apart  from   woodlands. 

The  Balsam  Fir  and  the  White  Birch  (Fig.  93)  make  a  pleasing 
combination  planted  together,  also  either  the  Austrian  or  White 
Pine  and  the  Beech.  The  Oriental  Spruce,  Nordmann's  Fir  and 
Roster's  Blue  Spruce  (Fig.  92)  may  be  used  together  in  groups  with 
very  gratifying  results.  The  Japanese  conifers,  such  as  the  Retinis- 
poras,  should  always  be  grouped  together  or  with  the  Arborvitaes. 
They  do  not  harmonize  well  with  the  coarser  leaved  conifers. 


96 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


ONE  u;     illL  BLbT  TREES  VUR  THE  LAWN 

Fig.  89. — Pin  Oak  (Quercus  palustris).     Among  other  requirements,  specimen  lawn  trees 
should  be  low  branched.      The  Pin  Oak  fulfils  every  requirement. — See  page  93 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF    TREES   AND   SHRUBS        97 


■^  'X^  S  'f' 


THE  AMERICAN  ASH  MAKES  A  DESIRABLE  SPECIMEN 

Fig.  90. — American  Ash  (Fraxinus  americana).      A  quick  growing  type  of  desirable  lawn 

tree. — See  page  93 


98 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE    GARDENING 


A  SUITABLE  SPECIMEN  TREE  FOR  SMALL  LAWNS 

Fig.  91. — Deodora  Cedar  (Cedrus  Deodara).     Recommended  as  a  specimen  lawn  tree.     Of 
beautiful  form  and  foliage;  closely  related  to  the  Cedar  of  Lebanon. — See  page  93 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF    TREES   AND    SHRUBS        99 


ALWAYS  REMARKABLE  AND  ALWAYS  DESIRABLE 

Fig.  92. — Koster's  Blue  Spruce  (Picea  pungens  Kosteriana).     Well  known  as  a  desirable 
evergreen;   tips  of  foliage  of  a  beautiful  blue  sheen. — See  pages  93  and  94 


Groups  on  small  areas  should  not  be  overcrowded.  If  imme- 
diate effect  is  desired  first  arrange  for  the  permanent  trees  and  then 
others  may  be  added  and  removed  as  the  desired  trees  develop.  In- 
dividuals in  group  plantings  should  have  ample  space  to  show  their 
true  characteristics,  otherwise  they  assume  a  stiff,  unnatural  habit, 
and  mar  the  scene  they  are  intended  to  embellish.  It  is  a  question 
often  as  to  just  how  much  space  some  trees  and  shrubs  require,  so 
great   is   the   diversity  in   habit   of  growth.     For  the  tall  growing 


100 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


■''-:'.  *5^,-.•;^  ,u'«>.  -  >; 


THE  BARK  OF  THE  WHITE  BIRCH  OFFERS  A  PLEASING  CONTRAST 
Fig.  93. — The  cut-leaved,  pendulous  White  Birch  (Betula  alba  laciniata  pendula)  is  a  good 
tree  for  lawn  groupings.     With  its  white  bark  and  graceful  habit  it  lends  itself  to  many 
pleasing  combinations. — See  page  94  _ 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND   SHRUBS       101 

shrubs,  such  as  the  Weigela,  Mock  Orange,  Snowball  and  Lilac,  six 
feet  apart  is  a  good  average;  three  feet  will  suffice  for  medium-sized 
varieties;  two  feet  for  the  dwarf  growing  kinds.  If  these  distances 
are  followed  it  is  advisable  to  set  the  plants  in  the  turf  and  leave  a 
space  around  each  plant  spaded  up;  when  the  grass  dies  out  be- 
tween the  plants,  the  area  may  be  made  into  a  dug  bed.  This 
system  is  much  better  than  having  a  dug  bed  from  the  first  with 
large,  bare  spaces  between  plants.  Should  conditions  favor  the  dug 
bed,  a  ground  cover,  such  as  Pachysandra,  creeping  Phlox,  Candy- 
tuft, Rock  Cress  or  Hypericum  may  be  used  to  advantage. 

PLANTING    IN    LAWN    DEPRESSIONS 

Where  depressions  occur  in  the  lawn  they  may  be  accentuated 
by  plantings  on  the  slopes  and  high  ground,  leaving  the  depression 
open. 

PLANTING   IN    VALLEYS 

The  view  down  a  valley  from  the  house  site  is  always  more  restful 
if  framed  by  plantings  on  the  slopes.  In  arranging  the  plants  place 
the  dwarfer  kinds  to  the  base  and  graduate  the  height  to  the  top 
where  the  trees  should  predominate. 

BOUNDARY   PLANTINGS 

Belt  plantations  (Fig.  94)  are  always  appropriate  where  it  is 
necessary  to  create  the  scene  within  the  grounds  or  where  privacy 
is  desired.  When  the  surroundings  are  pleasingly  planted  or  the 
natural  conditions  are  such  that  the  premises  under  consideration 
should  be  treated  as  a  part  of  a  general  scheme,  then  the  belt  plant- 
ing must  not  be  continuous  but  broken  to  such  an  extent  that  it  will 
blend  harmoniously  with  what  is  already  established. 

Boundary  or  belt  plantations  (Fig.  95  on  key  page  104)  should 
always  be  more  or  less  sinuous,  according  to  the  area  of  the  space 
we  have  to  work  with.  Even  on  the  smallest  properties  the  irregular 
compound  curved  line  is  more  pleasing  than  a  straight  one.  The 
border  should  always  be  of  greater  depth  at  the  corners,  for  it  is 
here  that  we  should  have  the  greatest  height.  On  small  properties 
the  corner  plantings  become  a  part  of  the  framework  for  the  resi- 
dence. Where  the  area  of  the  grounds  is  large  the  border  may  be 
extended  well  into  the  lawn  at  points  and  the  bays  thus  formed  will 
give  an  idea  of  greater  distance  looking  from  the  house. 


102  PRAC  TICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

VARIETY   IN   BORDER    PLANTINGS 

Border  plantations  are  too  frequently  very  regular  and  flat  when 
shrubs  alone  are  used  (Fig.  96).  The  effect  is  especially  displeas- 
ing when  they  stand  out  alone  against  the  open  with  no  back- 
ground. It  is  well,  therefore,  to  consider  the  skyline  and  introduce 
trees  of  various  kinds  at  intervals.  If  the  border  is  small  choose 
the  best  of  the  dwarf  sorts,  and  have  the  necessary  height  and  variety 
of  contour.  In  larger  borders  trees  of  greater  dimensions  should 
be  used.  A  good  choice  may  be  made  from  among  the  following: 
Red  Maple,  Ash,  Sugar  Maple,  Scarlet  Oak  and  Sweet  Gum.  In 
addition  to  height  and  contour,  all  of  these  trees  are  noted  for  their 
splendid  Autumn  coloring. 

Large  growing  trees  introduced  into  the  border  make  it  necessary 
to  select  shade  enduring  shrubs  to  plant  under  and  near  them.  For 
such  a  purpose  use  Aralia  pentaphylla,  Weigelas,  Viburnum  cassi- 
noides,  V.  nudum,  Y.  cotinifolium  and  V.  acerifolium,  Cornus  alter- 
nifolia  and  C.  paniculata,  Hamamelis  virginica,  Ceanothus  ameri- 
cana  and  broad-leaved  evergreens  (Fig.  97). 

EDGING   THE   BORDER   PLANTINGS 

Edge  the  border  planting  with  perennials,  annuals  and  bulbs 
(Fig.  98),  so  that  the  season  of  bloom  may  be  continuous  from  early 
Spring  until  late  Fall.  Keep  away  from  bedding  Tulips  and  other 
bulbs  of  a  like  nature  in  the  border.  Use  Daffodils,  Darwin  Tulips 
and  similar  kinds  that  may  be  planted  in  clumps  for  naturalistic 
effect. 

EVERGREENS   IN   BORDER    PLANTINGS 

If  evergreens  are  used  for  a  border  planting  set  them  in  masses 
rather  than  as  scattered  specimens.  Plant  them  in  positions  where 
it  is  desirable  to  ha\-e  a  Winter  screen  or  where  they  will  help  plant- 
ings in  front  of  them.  If  used  as  a  background  select  only  kinds 
that  have  green  foliage.  Plants,  such  as  Judas,  Golden  Bell  and 
Pyrus,  together  with  shrubs  having  showy  fruit,  are  very  handsome 
against  a  background  of  evergreens  (Fig.  99).  The  pyramidal 
type  of  evergreen,  such  as  Arborvitae,  C>'press  and  Juniper,  are 
highly  recommended  for  border  planting,  as  they  give  an  accentu- 
ated note  to  the  scene  and  add  to  the  picturesqueness  more  than 
any  other  type  of  plant. 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF    TREES   AND    SHRUBS       103 


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ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND   SHRUBS       105 


BORDER  PLANTING  ALONG  A  PROPERTY  LINE 

Fig.  96. — Instance  of  an  attractive  boundary  planting  along  a  property  line,  affording 
privacy  and  adding  picturesqueness  to  the  scene. — See  page  102 


106  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

SPECIMEN   TREES   IN    FRONT    OF    BORDER   PLANTINGS 

Specimens  planted  in  front  of  border  plantings  should  always 
be  at  the  salient  points  and  not  in  the  bays  formed  by  the  border 
outlines.  The  positions  of  specimen  conifers  should  not  be  de- 
cided without  reference  to  the  border  plants  behind  them.  Ever- 
greens with  golden  foliage  should  not  be  placed  in  front  of  shrubs 
with  yellow  leaves  or  flowers.  Evergreens  with  blue  foliage  should 
not  be  placed  in  front  of  plants  with  silvery  leaves.  Strive  to  estab- 
lish a  contrast,  but  be  careful  to  preserve  good  balance  and  harmony. 
If  an  existing  plantation,  either  on  the  premises  or  beyond,  con- 
sists of  large  trees,  the  specimens  planted  in  the  foreground  should 
have  foliage  that  will  blend.  Use  trees  of  the  same  variety  and 
depend  for*  contrast  on  smaller  trees  and  shrubs  planted  still  more 
to  the  front. 


AVOID    ODD   SHAPED   BEDS    IN   LAWN   CENTER 

The  center  of  the  lawn  surface  should  not  be  broken  up  with 
circular  or  geometrically  shaped  beds.  They  destroy  the  quietude 
and  harmony  of  the  scene. 


ORNAMENTAL   PLANTING    ON   THE   FARM 

While  the  farm  layout  should  be  thoroughly  practical,  the 
farmer  who  thinks  that  he  must  carry  this  so  far  that  he  can  find  no 
time  or  place  for  anything  that  is  pleasing  and  beautiful  around 
his  residence,  lining  his  highway,  or  even  the  field  itself,  is  very 
wide  of  the  mark.  The  average  farm  house  of  the  past  few  decades 
and  its  collection  of  outbuildings  have  not  been  such  as  to  inspire 
either  respect,  friendly  sentiment  or  pleasant  associations.  The 
result  has  been  that  during  the  last  fifty  years  our  rural  districts 
have  lost  greatly  in  population,  the  girls  and  boys  of  the  farm  find- 
ing more  pleasure  and  enjoyment  in  the  towns  and  cities. 

The  farm  home  and  its  surroundings  should  be  made  attractive 
and  inspiring  to  the  occupants,  particularly  to  the  younger  genera- 
tion, that  they  may  see  in  their  homes  far  more  that  is  pleasant  and 
enjoyable  than  in  the  tiny  cubicles  which  pass  for  homes  in  our 
great  cities. 

It  is  not  to  be  supposed  that  the  farmer  of  average '  means  can 
purchase  fine  paintings  and  works  of  art,  but  he  can  improve  his 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF    TREES   AND    SHRUBS       107 


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PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


BORDER  PLANTING  EDGED  WITH  BULBS  AND  PERENNIALS 
Fig.  98. — Ensuring  continuous  bloom  from  early  Summer  until  late  in  Fall. — See  page  102 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND   SHRUBS      109 

immediate  surroundings  at  very  little  cost,  making  the  home  a 
thing  of  beauty  rather  than  a  hideous  collection  of  purely  utilitarian 
conveniences. 

The  first  aim  in  the  landscape  development  should  be  toward  an 
orderly  arrangement  of  the  barns,  dairies,  poultry  yard  and  other 
features  to  be  maintained  for  housing  the  stock  and  storing  the 
crops.  There  is  beauty  as  well  as  convenience  in  order.  With  the 
buildings  located  in  their  proper  relation  to  each  other  and  to  the 
house,  and  the  walk  and  drive  arrangement  carefully  planned,  the 
question  of  beautification  is  made  quite  simple. 

All  plantings  should  be  composed  of  trees  and  shrubs  that  are 
very  hardy  and  of  easy  culture,  and  for  sentimental  reasons  it  is  well 
to  select  the  old  standard  varieties  familiar  to  old-time  farms 
everywhere  (Fig.  100). 

Among  the  shrubs  the  most  widely  known  is  the  Lilac.  Lilacs 
are  perfectly  hardy  and  thrive  in  almost  any  soil  and  position.  The 
varieties  have  been  greatly  improved,  so  that  kinds  may  now  be 
had  with  single  or  double  flowers  and  in  a  wide  range  of  color. 

The  Snowball  is  another  favorite  always  found  with  the  Lilac 
in  the  old-time  farmyard.  Other  familiar  kinds  are  the  old-fashioned 
Sweet  Shrub,  Golden  Bell,  Bridal  Wreath,  Japanese  Quince  or  Fire 
Bush,  Mock  Orange,  Rose  of  Sharon  and  Weigelas.  Add  to  these 
the  Hydrangea  and  we  have  a  selection  that  covers  a  long  period 
of  bloom. 

There  is  not  a  place  where  these  old-fashioned  and  greatly  loved 
varieties  may  not  be  used  to  advantage  as  a  means  of  ornamentation. 
Plant  them  at  the  corners  of  building^,  at  fence  corners,  at  interior 
angles,  at  intersections  of  walks  and  drives,  and  in  pairs  down  the 
straight  walk  that  leads  to  barn  and  garden. 

The  farm  barn  may  have  an  end  or  side  protected  from  the 
stock,  which  may  be  changed  from  an  unsightly  aspect  to  one  of 
picturesqueness  through  the  planting  of  a  few  hardy  shrubs  (Figs. 
101,  102  and  103). 

Although  the  truck  garden  is  a  strictly  utilitarian  feature,  it  is 
quite  practical  and  not  an  extravagance  to  provide  space  for  a  small 
flower  garden  between  the  truck  garden  and  the  house,  a  sort  of  an 
anteroom  to  the  strictly  prosaic  feature  beyond. 

The  flower  garden  should  not  be  large;  it  would  be  an  error  to 
make  it  so,  and  some  of  the  space  in  the  beds  should  be  given  over 


110 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


PYRAMIDAL  EVERGREENS  IN  BORDER  PLANTINGS 

Fig.  99. — Vervaene's  Arborvitae  (Thuya  occidentalis  Vervaeneana).     A  good  type  of  pyrami- 
dal evergreen. — See  page  102 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND   SHRUBS       111 


ORNAMENTAL  PLANTING  ON  THE  FARM 
Fig.   100. — A  planting  of  old-fashioned  shrubs  around  a  farm  house. — See  page   109 


A  TYPE  OF  NEGLECT  TOO  01  ■]  L.\  SLEN 
Fig,  101. — Usual  type  of  farm  barn,  entirely  devoid  of  planting. — See  page  109 


12 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


QUITE  DIFFERENT  AND  ALTOGETHER  TO  BE  PREFERRED 

Fig.  102. — An  attractive  planting  of  hardy  trees  and  shrubs  against  the  side  of  a  farm  barn. 
A  constant  pleasure  to  the  farmer  and  his  family. — See  page  109 


A  FURTHER  IDEA  OF  HOME  GROUND  IMPROVEMENT 

Fig.  103. — Planting  at  the  intersection  of  the  highway  and  the  road  to  the  farm  barn.     It 
raises  the  value  of  farm  property. — See  page  109 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND    SHRUBS       113 


-a   U  V  -1 


114  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

to  the  smaller  vegetables  and  herbs,  keeping  the  flower  borders  along 
the  walks.  In  the  old-time  gardens  these  borders  were  defined  by 
box  edging  or  stone  curbing.  When  stones  were  used  they  were 
whitewashed  each  Spring  when  the  buildings  and  the  fences  receive 
their  annual  coat. 

I  recall  a  charming  old  garden  which  had  been  laid  out  along 
these  lines  (Fig.  104).  The  flower  borders  were  four  feet  wide  and 
the  walks,  of  the  same  dimension,  divided  the  area  into  four  equal 
rectangles.  On  the  axis  of  one  of  the  walks,  which  was  a  continua- 
tion of  a  walk  paralleling  the  front  of  the  house,  stood  an  old  Catha- 
rine Pear,  perched  on  a  little  mound,  that  formed  a  cjuiet  resting 
place  under  the  overhanging  branches.  The  Pear  was  the  center 
of  the  little  lawn,  about  thirty  feet  square,  partially  enclosed  by 
three  clumps  of  Lilacs,  and  was  the  dominant  note  in  the  scene, 
standing  stately  and  serene.  At  each  corner  of  the  garden  and  at 
the  intersection  of  the  walks  were  specimen  shrubs,  sixteen  in  all, 
and  between  them,  back  of  the  garden  beds,  were  placed  the  Currant 
and  Gooseberry  bushes.  In  the  flower  beds  were  planted  the  herbs, 
and  those  old-fashioned  garden  favorites,  Paeonies,  Chrysanthe- 
mums, Larkspurs,  Sweet  Rockets,  and  Flags,  preceded  in  the 
Spring  by  hundreds  of  yellow  Daffodils,  making  a  scene  worthy  of 
reproduction  on  every  farm  in  the  land. 

SUMMARY 

Briefly  expressed,  the  use  of  ornamental  trees  and  shrubs  for  the 
embellishment  of  a  scene  must  be  along  lines  that  are  both  esthetic 
and  practical.  The  selection  of  a  particular  plant  or  group  of  plants 
for  a  given  position  should  be  for  the  reason  that  it  best  suits  that 
place,  a  point  to  be  determined  by  a  careful  study  of  the  best  prin- 
ciples of  landscape  design.  Simplicity  and  repose  should  be  key- 
notes. Avoid  the  use  of  too  many  varieties  and  only  as  isolated 
specimens  should  abnormally  shaped  plants  be  admitted.  Groups 
should  consist  of  carefully  selected  units,  all  blending  to  make  a 
pleasing  whole. 

From  a  practical  viewpoint  the  success  of  any  planting  depends 
largely  on  the  vigor  and  robustness  with  which  the  plants  grow. 
Select  plants  best  suited  to  the  physical  conditions  in  the  locality. 
With  splendid  assortments  to  choose  from  in  every  section  it  is  de- 
cidedly wrong  to  waste  time  and  effort  in  trying  to  nurse  along 
plants  unsuited  to  local  conditions. 


ORNAMENTAL   PLANTING   OF   TREES  AND   SHRUBS      115 

TREE    PLANTING 

All  plantings  should  be  preceded  by  careful  preparation  of  the 
soil.  Lawn  trees  are  permanent  features  and  as  such  every  detail 
of  the  planting  should  have  close  attention.  This  will  insure  a 
healthy  growth  and  proper  development. 

Holes  for  trees  should  be  at  least  a  foot  wider  than  the  spread  of 
the  roots  and  at  least  twenty-four  inches  deep,  unless  for  a  large 
specimen,  when  it  should  be  proportionately  deeper. 

In  heavy  clay  soil,  where  the  water  is  apt  to  collect  and  remain, 
the  holes  should  be  dug  deep  enough  to  afford  good  drainage.  If 
the  clay  extends  some  depth  proper  drainage  may  be  insured  by 
placing  broken  stone  in  the  bottom  of  the  holes. 

Tree  holes  should  be  made  as  large  or  larger  at  the  bottom  than 
they  are  at  the  top  (Figs.  105  and  106).  Too  often  holes  just  the 
reverse  are  prepared. 

All  broken  or  bruised  roots  should  be  cut  off  clean. 

Holes  should  be  sufficiently  large  to  allow  of  spreading  all  roots 
in  a  natural  position. 

Good  soil  should  be  provided  for  the  planting,  and  very  dry  and 
tine  soil  worked  in  carefully  around  the  roots  and  thoroughly  tamped 
so  that  no  spaces  remain. 

Avoid  planting  too  deeply  (Fig.  107).  Trees  should  be  set  just 
a  very  little  lower  than  they  have  been  growing  in  the  nursery. 

Avoid  mounding  up  right  around  the  stem  after  planting  (Fig. 
108).  When  this  little  hump  gets  dry  and  hard  it  makes  a  shed 
for  that  water  which  should  penetrate  to  the  roots. 

A  slight  depression  is  much  better  and  provides  a  cup  for  holding 
the  moisture  (Fig.  109).  After  planting,  a  good  mulching  over 
the  root  areas  will  conserve  the  moisture  and  greatly  benefit  the 
tree. 

If  the  tree  is  three  or  five  inches  or  more  in  caliper  set  wire 
stays  to  keep  it  straight  and  to  protect  against  any  loosening  of  the 
roots  (Fig.  110). 

PRUNING 

The  tops  of  all  trees  should  be  reduced  at  least  one-third  by 
pruning  back  when  transplanting.  This  will  overcome  somewhat 
the  loss  of  feeding  roots  and  conserve  the  amount  of  sap  in  the  trees 
until  new  feeding  roots  are  formed. 


116 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND   SHRUBS      117 


118 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


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ORNAMENTAL    PLANTING   OF   TREES   AND    SHRUBS       119 

All  such  pruning  should  be  done  carefully,  making  the  cuts 
clean  and  close  up  to  a  bud  or  stem,  so  that  no  stubs  remain  to  die 
back  and  cause  injury.  Hard  wooded  trees  such  as  the  Oaks  and 
Hickories  must  be  cut  back  hard  as  they  are  apt  to  have  fewer  feed- 
ing roots  than  the  softer  wooded  trees.  Do  not  waste  time  and 
material  on  a  poor  specimen.  Secure  good,  healthy  trees  with  good 
root  system  and,  if  possible,  trees  that  have  been  frequently  trans- 
planted. 

TREE    PLANTING    WITH   DYNAMITE 

The  blowing  of  tree  holes  with  dynamite  is  to  be  recommended 
from  the  standpoint  of  economy  alone.  A  good,  big  tree  hole  is 
much  more  easily  dug  if  the  ground  has  first  been  loosened  with 
dynamite. 

The  loosening  of  the  soil  aids  root  growth  and  affords  easy  pene- 
tration of  moisture  to  the  root  feeding  areas. 

One-half  a  stick  of  forty  per  cent,  dynamite  is  usually  sufficient 
for  a  hole. 

One  thing  to  avoid  in  planting  trees  in  dynamited  holes  is  the 
pot  hole  (Fig.  Ill),  formed  by  the  gases  at  the  time  of  the  explosion. 
Holes  are  not  dug  deeply  enough  after  the  explosion  and  this  hole 
is  allowed  to  remain.  After  a  few  rains  have  loosened  the  soil  above 
it  drops  down  to  fill  up  the  hole,  leaving  roots  uncovered,  often 
resulting  in  the  loss  of  the  tree.  All  dynamited  holes  should  be  gone 
over  carefully  with  a  long  pole  or  bar  so  that  the  earth  will  settle 
into  any  deep  holes  that  may  have  been  formed. 

MOVING   LARGE   TREES 

On  new  estates  quick  results  are  often  desired  and  may  be  secured 
by  the  planting  of  large  specimen  trees  (Fig.  112). 

The  same  principles  apply  to  the  moving  of  these  large  specimens 
as  apply  in  all  instances  of  tree  transplanting.  The  trees  must  be 
carefully  dug,  preserving  the  small  feeding  roots  even  though  they 
extend  for  a  distance  of  from  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  away  from  the 
trunk.  As  these  are  uncovered  they  should  be  tied  up  in  bundles 
and  bent  out  of  the  way,  and  protected  with  straw  or  burlap  care- 
fully wrapped  around  the  roots. 

If  the  trees  are  very  large  and  heavy  special  apparatus  must  be 
secured  for  their  proper  handling. 

The  method  of  moving  large  trees  with  a  six  or  eight  foot  ball 


120  PRACTICAL  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 

of  earth,  cutting  off  all  roots  extending  beyond,  is  not  as  satisfactory 
as  tree  moving  where  the  roots  are  combed  out  and  preserved. 

ROOT   PRUNING 

When  it  is  desired  to  move  a  large  tree  from  one  portion  of  the 
estate  to  another,  the  specimen  should  be  root  pruned  at  least 
one  year  in  advance  of  the  transplanting.  This  is  accomplished  by 
digging  a  trench  about  twelve  inches  wide,  five  or  six  feet  away  from 
the  trunk,  or  a  distance  proportionate  with  the  size  of  the  tree,  and 
filling  the  trench  with  soil  and  well-rotted  manure  to  induce  an 
added  growth  of  small  fibrous  roots. 

When  moving  large  trees  the  head  should  be  reduced  somewhat 
to  balance  the  loss  in  roots. 

CARE    or   TREES   AND    SHRUBS 

Much  of  the  beauty  in  plant  life  is  in  the  healthy,  vigorous 
growth,  enabling  the  tree  or  shrub  to  put  forth  its  best  effort  in 
pleasing  foliage  and  abundant  bloom  and  fruit.  Continual  and 
systematic  attention  should  be  given  to  the  proper  nourishing, 
watering  and  pruning  of  all  trees  and  plants.  The  majority  of  our 
plants  are  existing  under  more  or  less  unfavorable  conditions  and 
need  this  attention. 

If  plants  are  kept  in  a  healthy,  vigorous  condition  the  suscepti- 
bility to  insect,  fungus,  and  scale  attacks  will  be  reduced  to  a 
minimum.. 

Trees  planted  in  the  lawn  should  have  the  sod  removed  from 
about  them  occasionally  and  a  feeding  of  hardwood  ashes,  humus  or 
well  rotted  manure  applied.  Such  applications  should  extend  to  the 
area  of  the  spread  of  the  branches  and  not  be  confined  to  a  very 
limited  area  immediately  around  the  trunk. 

When  trees  are  kept  mulched  the  mulching  should  be  loosened 
occasionally  to  insure  a  free  circulation  of  air. 

All  dead  branches  should  be  removed  from  trees,  and  all  inter- 
fering limbs.  This  should  be  attended  to  at  regular  intervals. 
Neglect  of  proper  pruning  often  causes  irreparable  damage  to  trees 
through  heavy  winds  or  ice  storms. 

All  flowering  shrubs  should  be  properly  and  systematically 
pruned  to  insure  an  abundance  of  flower  and  fruit.  Do  not  cut 
shrubs  back  during  the  Winter  regardless  of  the  variety  or  blooming 
season.     Spring  blooming  shrubs,  which  of  a  necessity  must  form 


ORNAMENTAL   PLANTING   OF   TREES  AND   SHRUBS      121 


122  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

flowering  wood  the  season  previous,  should  be  pruned  just  after 
they  have  flowered.  Lilacs,  Golden  Bell,  Japanese  Quince  and 
similar  Spring  blooming  shrubs  are  in  this  class.  The  pruning 
should  not  be  too  severe,  simply  enough  to  keep  the  plants  in  shape 
and  to  allow  sunlight  and  air  to  all  parts.  The  Fall  flowering  shrubs, 
such  as  the  Rose  of  Sharon  and  Hydrangeas,  bloom  on  wood  made 
during  the  immediate  Summer.  Such  shrubs  should  have  a  vigorous 
Winter,  or  early  Spring  pruning. 

INSECT  PESTS 

Insect  pests  attacking  trees  and  shrubs  are  mostly  of  two  kinds: 
those  that  injure  by  eating  the  foliage,  such  as  the  Elm  Leaf  Beetle, 
and  those  that  injure  by  sucking,  such  as  the  various  scales  and 
plant  lice. 

For  the  leaf  chewing  insects  a  spraying  with  some  poisonous 
substance  that  will  readily  adhere  to  the  leaves  is  most  effective. 
Paris  green  and  arsenate  of  lead  are  recommended.  These  sub- 
stances may  be  purchased  in  commercial  form,  prepared  for  such 
use,  and  accompanied  by  full  instructions  for  proper  application. 

For  scales  and  plant  lice  some  remedy  that  kills  by  contact  must 
be  applied.     Kerosene  and  soap  emulsions  are  the  best. 

A  wide  band  of  burlap  tacked  around  the  tree  with  an  overlap 
is  very  useful  in  arresting  the  progress  of  caterpillars.  Such  over- 
laps should  be  turned  frequently  and  the  caterpillars  destroyed. 


THE   FLOWER  GARDEN  123 


CHAPTER  VII 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN 

The  highest  personal  note  in  the  art  of  landscape  design  is  the 
flower  garden,  and  no  scheme  of  landscape  development  is  com- 
plete, no  matter  how  small  the  property,  which  does  not  provide 
space  for  a  garden.  It  is  in  the  garden  that  our  individual  fancies 
as  to  the  choice  and  arrangement  of  flowers  may  be  indulged.  There 
we  may  have  a  profusion  of  flowers,  harmony  of  color,  charm  of  ef- 
fect and,  above  all,  seclusion  and  restful  quiet;  for  the  growing  of 
flowers  is  indeed  the  simplest  yet  most  satisfying  of  pleasures. 

We  would  emphasize  again  that  fitness  is  the  very  foundation 
of  all  artistic  excellence  and  in  none  of  the  arts  is  this  more  appli- 
cable than  in  garden  design.  The  flower  garden,  although  a  separate 
unit  in  the  general  landscape,  and  subject  in  itself  to  a  greater  free- 
dom of  treatment,  must  be  in  harmony  with  its  surroundings.  If 
the  house  is  of  simple  design  simplicity  must  dominate  the  garden. 
That  the  charming  box-bordered  gardens  of  Colonial  days  were  so 
in  keeping  with  the  residence  was  due  largely  to  the  simplicity  of 
design — gardens  with  not  only  unpretentious  outlines,  but  the  variety 
of  plants  so  limited  that  very  simple  color  combinations  resulted. 

It  is  most  gratifying  to  witness,  since  more  attention  is  being 
given  to  the  arrangement  of  the  home  surroundings,  that  the  mis- 
cellaneous beds,  which  in  former  years  were  scattered  over  the  lawn 
in  a  most  heterogeneous  fashion,  are  gradually  being  supplanted  by 
the  more  orderly  arrangement  of  plantations  confined  to  the  boun- 
dary lines  of  the  property,  bordered  driveways  or  paths,  or  within 
enclosed  areas,  as  formal  or  informal  gardens. 

CLASSIFICATION    OF    GARDENS 

Enclosed  gardens  are  by  no  means  of  modern  origin.  Space 
may  not  be  given  here  to  a  full  classification  of  various  types  of  gar- 
dens, but  it  will  be  well  to  consider  briefly  those  which  have  had  great 
influence  in  the  development  of  our  present  day  garden.  Of  these, 
the  Italian,  French  and  English  gardens  are  most  important. 


124  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

The  Italian  gardens  did  not  depend  on  floral  ornamentation  for 
their  chief  beauty.  While  not  entirely  devoid  of  flowers  they  were 
mostly  appreciated  for  their  architectural  embellishments.  Built 
upon  three  levels,  ample  opportunity  was  afforded  for  retaining  walls, 
capped  with  balustrades  of  the  most  ornate  character.  The  use  of 
water  in  the  garden  was  brought  to  its  greatest  perfection  by  the 
Italian  architects.  Remarkable  water  effects  were  achieved  within 
a  small  compass  and  with  little  quantity. 

The  French  gardens  were  also  very  architectural  in  design,  but 
more  extensive  in  area.  Much  consideration  was  given  to  vistas, 
particularly  along  diagonal  lines.  Many  plants  trimmed  to  formal 
outlines  were  used.  Even  the  trees  were  treated  as  units  in  the 
architectural  scheme,  to  be  pruned  and  fashioned  in  harmony  with 
the  structural  parts  of  the  garden. 

The  Italian  and  French  gardens,  though  softened  by  the  elements 
of  time  and  made  interesting  by  the  charm  of  romance,  are  not  so 
satisfying  as  are  the  English  gardens.  The  English  garden  exists 
more  for  its  flowers  and,  although  not  devoid  of  architectural  fea- 
tures, the  masonry  is  softened  by  the  abundant  display  of  flowering 
plants.  It  is  from  the  English  garden  and  its  flowers  that  we  shall 
derive  the  greatest  inspiration  for  our  own  gardens. 

It  is  to  the  flower  garden  as  an  enclosed  feature,  of  formal  or 
informal  design,  that  these  notes  will  chiefly  apply. 

The  flower  garden  should  be  treated  as  a  unit  in  the  general 
scheme  and  the  principal  views  of  the  garden  should  be  considered 
from  the  house.  It  should  be  an  enclosure  separated  from  the  lawn 
by  a  wall  or  hedge.  Such  a  scheme  provides  privacy  and  seclusion 
for  those  who  would  walk  or  work  among  the  flowers;  it  is  a  pro- 
tection to  the  growing  plants  and,  in  concealing  this  feature  from 
without,  leaves  something  to  the  imagination  and  more  to  be  appre- 
ciated from  a  vantage  point  in  the  house. 

GARDEN   DIMENSIONS   AND   DESIGN 
— GARDEN   ENTRANCE 

The  principal  entrance  to  the  garden  (Fig.  113)  should  be  from 
the  house  and  on  an  axis  with  some  important  door  or  window.  It 
is  from  this  point  that  we  receive  our  first  impression,  and  it  should 
be  so  featured  that  the  whole  scene  unfolded  creates  in  the  be- 
holder  that   delight,  fascination,  allurement  and  complete  sense   of 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN 


125 


126  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 

rest  which  afford  to  lovers  of  nature  the  highest  type  of  enjoy- 
ment. The  garden  should  radiate  an  atmosphere  of  hospitality, 
creating  an  irresistible  desire  to  stroll  within  and  enjoy  all  the 
wealth  of  form  and  fragrance  of  foliage  and  flower. 

The  garden  will  always  be  more  restful  if  placed  on  a  level  below 
the  house  grades  (Figs.  114  and  114A),  requiring  steps  for  the 
descent. 

Definiteness  may  be  given  to  the  garden  entrance  by  an  arch 
formed  of  plants  in  the  enclosing  hedge,  or  of  metal  or  wood,  fram- 
ing some  enticing  water  feature  beyond. 

Should  it  be  necessary  to  place  the  garden  on  a  higher  level  the 
approach  should  be  broad  and  easy.  Step  risers  should  never  be 
more  than  six  inches  and  the  tread  should  be  at  least  fourteen  inches. 

The  dimensions  and  shape  of  the  garden  are  matters  which  will 
be  influenced  more  or  less  by  the  residence  and  the  configuration  of 
the  ground.  The  area  of  the  garden,  however,  should  always  ex- 
ceed that  covered  by  the  house.  Where  the  property  is  rather 
narrow  the  greater  dimension  of  the  garden  should  extend  in  the 
direction  of  the  greater  dimension  of  the  property. 

When  planning  the  garden  the  amount  of  care  necessary  for  the 
proper  upkeep  should  be  borne  in  mind  and  the  space  designed 
accordingly,  as  it  is  necessary  that  the  garden  should  at  all  times  be 
in  as  nearly  perfect  condition  as  possible. 

A  flower  garden  adjoining  a  house  should  have  some  space 
between  it  and  the  house  proper  as  the  foreground  to  the  floral  scene 
beyond. 

The  rectangular  design  of  beds  in  gardens  possesses  the  greatest 
character  and  displays  the  plantations  within  the  beds  to  the  best 
advantage.  This  is  specially  so  with  the  oblong  enclosures.  In 
square  or  nearly  square  gardens  (Fig.  115),  curved  lines  give  a  greater 
variety,  especially  within  a  small  compass. 

To  add  to  the  interest  the  design  should  always  include  a  central 
feature,  either  a  pool,  bird  bath,  or  even  a  sundial,  although  the 
latter  is  more  appropriately  placed  in  a  more  isolated  position. 

The  central  feature  may  be  oblong,  circular,  elliptical,  or  a  com- 
bination of  the  square  and  the  circle. 

In  some  instances  it  is  advantageous,  where  the  distance  is  not 
too  great,  to  extend  the  garden  from  the  house  to  the  party  line 
(Fig.  116 — See  page  136),  arranging  it  so  that  it  will  come  between 
the  pleasure  grounds  and  the  service  portion. 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


127 


128 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDEXIXG 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  II4A-See  pages  130  and  131 


Key 

No. 

Quo 

I 

8 

2 

10 

3 

9 

4 

10 

5 

15 

6 

7 

7 

7 

8 

5 

9 

6 

10 

6 

II 

7 

12 

12 

13 

6 

14 

S 

23 

7 

24 

7 

25 

7 

26 

10 

27 

9 

28 

7 

29 

5 

30 

5 

31 

II 

32 

II 

33 

5 

34 

9 

35 

10 

36 

II 

37 

13 

38 

10 

39 

2 

40 

2 

41 

2 

42 

12 

43 

44 

6 

45 

7 

46 

5 

47 

9 

48 

5 

49 

9 

50 

5 

51 

7 

52 

9 

53 

3 

54 

5 

55 

4 

56 

5 

57 

5 

S8 

5 

59 

7 

60 

12 

61 

7 

62 

7 

63 

7 

I  'ariety 
Aconitum  Napellus 
Delphinium  chinense 
Pentstemon  barbatus  hybrids 
Gypsophila  acutifoha 
Coreopsis  lanceolata 
Helenium  Hoopesii 
Aconitum  Napellus 
Achillea.  The  Pearl 
Phlox,  Miss  Lingard 
Phlox  Sieboldi 
Aconitum  Napellus 
Lupinus  polyphyllus 
Aster  laev'is 
Hollyhocks  Allegheny 
Aster  novae  angliae  rosea 
Delphinium  elatum 
Anchusa  Italica  Dropmore  var. 
Physostegia  virginica 
Delphinium  elatum 
Delphinium  elatum 
Boltonia  latisquama 
Anchusa  Italica  Dropmore  var. 
Delphinium  elatum 
Aster  novi  belgii  climax 
Hollyhocks  .Allegheny 
Heliopsis  Pitcheriana 
Aconitum  Napellus 
Phlox,  Miss  Lingard 
Phlox.  Rheinlander 
Phlox  Sieboldi 
Aconitum  Napellus 

Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 
Aster  laevis 

Hollyhocks,  double  red 
Aquilegia  chrvsantha 
Phlox  W.  C.  Egan 
Chr\-santhemum  St.  lUoria 
Phlox  Queen 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Juniperus  Pfitzeriana 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Dianthus  barbatus  Newport  Pink 
Godetias  (annual) 
Campanula  persicifolia 
Iris  aurea 

Gypsophila  paniculata 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Aquilegia  caerulea 
Phlox  amaena 
Pentstemon  barbatus 
Sedum  spectabile 
Aquilegia  chrysantha 
Chrysanthemum  Julia  Lagravere 
Phlox  Baron  von  Dedem 
Calliopsis  (annual) 
Anemone  Japonica  Queen  Charlotte 
Papaver  orientale 
Doronicum  e.xcelsum 
Delphinium  chinense  alba 
Phlox  Independence 
Phlox  Coquelicot 
Dianthus  barbatus,  white 
Gaillardia  grandiflora 


Common  Xame 
Monkshood 
Chinese  Larkspur 
Beard's  Tongue 
Baby's  Breath 
Tickseed 

Early  Sneezewort 
Monkshood 
Double  White  Yarrow 
Early  Phlox  White 
Tall  Vermilion  Phlox 
Monkshood 
Lupine 

Lavender  Hardy  Aster 
Fringed  Hollyhocks 
Pink  Hardy  Aster 
Tall  Larkspur 
Alkanet 
Obedient  Plant 
Tall  Larkspur 
Tall  Larkspur 
Starwort 
Alkanet 
Tall  Larkspur 
Pink  Hardy  Aster 
Fringed  Hollyhocks 
Orange  Sunflower 
Monkshood 
Early  Phlox,  white 
Salmon  Pink  Hardy  Phlox 
Vermilion  Hardy  Phlox 
Monkshood 

Yellow  Hardy  Chri'santhemum 
Lavender  Hardy  .Aster 
Double  Red  Hollyhocks 
Yellow  Columbine 
Light  Lavender  Phlox 
Pink  Hardy  Chrysanthemum 
White  Phlox 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Spreading  Cedar 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Pink  Sweet  William 

Peach-leaved  Bellflower 

Yellow  Flag 

Baby's  Breath 

Foxglove 

Rockv  Mountain  Columbine 

Early  Phlox  Pink 

Beard's  Tongue 

Live  Forever 

Yellow  Columbine 

Red  Hardy  Chrysanthemum 

Red  Hardy  Phlox 

Pink  Japanese  Anemone 
Oriental  Poppy 
Leopard's  Bane 
White  Chinese  Larkspur 
White  Hardy  Phlox 
Scarlet  Hardy  Phlox 
White  Sweet  William 
Blanket  Flower 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN 


129 


Key 

No.  Quan. 

64  7 

65  5 

66  7 

67  9 

68  5 

69  7 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  1 1 4A-Continued 


73 

5 

74 

5 

75 

5 

76 

7 

77 

9 

78 

3 

79 

10 

80 

7 

81 

5 

82 

10 

83 

10 

84 

5 

90 
91 
92 

93 

94 

95 

96 

97 

98 

99 

100 

lOI 

102 

103 

104 

105 

106 

107 

108 

109 

IIO 

III 

112 
113 
114 
115 
116 
117 
118 
119 
120 
121 
122 
123 
124 
125 
126 
127 
128 
129 
130 
131 
132 


I  ariely 
Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 
Sedum  spectabile  "  Brilliant  " 
Coreopsis  lanceolata 
Phlox  amoena 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Gypsophila  elegans 
Aquilegia  canadensis 
Dianthus  Newport  Pink 
Dianthus  barbatus  white 
Coreopsis  lanceolata 
Chrysanthemum  Autumn  Queen 
Dianthus  Newport  Pink 
Rudbeckia  Newmanni 
Gaillardia  grandiflora 
Heuclvera  sanguinea 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
Phlox  divaricata 
Veronica  longifolia  subsessilis 
Delphinium  elatum 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
Aster  amellus  elegans 
Platycodon  grandiflorum 
Aconitum  Napellus 
Delphinium  chinense 
Pentstemon  Torreyi 
Lupinus  polyphyllus 
Scabiosa  japonica 
Delphinium.  Gold  Medal  Hybrids 
Aster  novi  belgii  Heiderose 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Coreopsis  lanceolata  grandiflora 
Campanula  glomerata 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Phlox  divaricata 
Delphinium  elatum 
\'eronica  longifolia  subsessilis 
Rose  Christine  Wright 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
Aquilegia  vulgaris 
Phlox  Miss  Lingard 
Centaurea  montana 
Dianthus  plumarius 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Dianthus  plumarius  Homer 
Plumbago  Larpentae 
Platycodon  grandiflorum 
Coreopsis  grandiflora 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Aster  blue  (annuals) 
Paeonia  I'Esperance 
Funkia  caerulea 
Delphinium  formosum 
Lilium  candidum 
Potentilla  \'ulcan 
Chrysanthemum  Autumn  Queen 
Aquilegia  vulgaris 
Dianthus  barbatus,  white 
Delphinium  chinense 
Geum  coccineum 
Plumbago  Larpentae 
Platycodon  grandiflorum 
Dianthus  plumarius  Homer 
Coreopsis  grandiflora 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Lilium  candidum 
Delphinium      flormosum 
Potentilla  Vulcan 


Common  Xante 
Golden  Chrysanthemum 
Live  Forever 
Tickseed 

Early  Pink  Phlox 
Japanese  Iris 
Baby's  Breath 
Red  Columbine 
Pink  Sweet  William 
White  Sweet  William 
Tickseed 

Pink  Hardy  Chrysanthemum 
Pink  Sweet  William 
Black-eyed  Susan 
Blanket  Flower 
Coral  Bells 
Baby's  Breath 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
Speedwell 
Tall  Larkspur 
Baby's  Breath 
Early  Aster 
Bellflower 
Monkshood 
Chinese  Larkspur 
Beard's  Tongue 
Lupine 
Blue  Bonnet 
Tall  Larkspur 
Hardy  Aster 
Lavender  Iris 
Tickseed 

Clustered  Bellflower 
Japanese  Iris 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
Tall  Larkspur 
Speedwell 

Climbing  Pink  Rose 
Stoke's  Aster 
Baby's  Breath 
Columbine 
Early  White  Phlox 
Hardy  Cornflower 
Snow  Queen 

Lavender  Flag,  White,  Pink 
Hardy  Pink 
Leadwort 
Bellflower 
Tickseed 
Japanese  Iris 

Pink  Peony 

Blue  Day  Lily 

Tall  Larkspur 

Madonna  Lily 

Crimson  Cinquefoil 

Pink  Chr\'santhemum 

Columbine 

Sweet  William 

Chinese  Larkspur 

Avens 

Leadwort 

Bellflower 

Hardy  Pink 

Tickseed 

Japanese  Iris 

Lavender  Flag 

Madonna  Lily 

Dark  Blue  Larkspur 

Crimson  Cinquefoil 


130 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


U, 


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THE    FLOWER   GARDEN 


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132 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  1 1 4A-Continued 


Key 

No. 

Quan. 

133 

7 

134 

5 

135 

9 

136 

9 

137 

5 

138 

7 

139 

7 

140 

10 

141 

10 

142 

10 

143 

5 

144 

10 

145 

7 

146 

6 

147 

5 

148 

5 

149 

S 

150 

7 

ISI 

7 

152 

8 

153 

II 

154 

5 

155 

10 

156 

9 

157 

10 

IS8 

7 

159 

5 

160 

7 

161 

5 

162 

10 

163 

10 

164 

5 

165 

9 

166 

8 

167 

10 

168 

10 

169 

9 

170 

10 

171 

S 

172 

10 

173 

7 

174 

7 

175 

7 

176 

5 

177 

7 

178 

5 

179 

9 

180 

II 

181 

10 

182 

10 

183 

5 

184 

5 

185 

9 

186 

9 

187 

5 

188 

7 

189 

7 

190 

5 

191 

7 

192 

5 

193 

7 

194 

7 

195 

5 

196 

7 

197 

10 

198 

12 

199 

8 

200 

3000 

201 

48 

202 

4 

Variety 
Aquilegia  vulgaris 
Funkia  ovatus 
Dianthus  barbatus 
Chrysanthemum  Autumn  Queen 
Linum  perenne 
Centaurea  montana 
Delphinium  elatum 
Aquilegia  vulgaris 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
Clematis  Davidiana 
Veronica  longifolia  subsessilis 
Phlox  divaricata 
Campanula  Dahurica 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Coreopsis  lone;ifolia  grandiflora 
Aster  laevis 

Delphinium,  Gold  Medal  Hybrids 
Lupinus  polyphyllus 
Pentstemon  barbatus  hybrids 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Platycodon  grandiflorum 
Aconitum  Napellus 
Scabiosa  japonica 
Delphinium  elatum 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
\'eronica  longifolia  subsessilis 
Delphinium  chinense 
Phlox  amoena 
Sedum  spectabile 
Geum  coccineum 
Aquilegia  chrysantha 
Chrysanthemum  Julia  LagravSre 
Pentstemon  barbatus 
Phlox  Rheinstrom 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Iris  aurea 

Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 
Dianthus  Newport  Pink 
Aquilegia  chrysantha 
Papaver  orientale 
Delphinium  chinense  alba 
Anemone  japonica  Queen  Charlotte 
Doronicum  excelsum 
Phlox  Coquelicot 
Digitalis  purpurea  alba 
Gaillardia  grandiflora 
Dianthus  barbatus,  white 
Gladiolus  Wm.  Falconer 
Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 
Sedum  spectabile 
Coreopsis  lanceolata 
Phlox  amoena 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
Aquilegia  canadensis 
Chrysanthemum  Autumn  Queen 
Dianthus  barbatus,  white 
Coreopsis  grandiflora 
Gaillardia  grandiflora 
Peeonia  Van  Houttei 
Rudbeckia  fulgida 
Heuchera  sanguineum 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
Buxus  pyramidalis 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Dwarf  Box  for  edging 
Tall  Pink  Geraniums 
Crataegus  Oxycantha 


Common  Name 
Columbine 
Blue  Day  Lily 
Sweet  William 

Pink  Hardy  Chrysanthemum 
Hardy  Flax 
Hardy  Cornflower 
Tall  Larkspur 
Blue  Columbine 
Baby's  Breath 
Perennial  Clematis 
Speedwell 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
Bellflower 
Stoke's  Aster 
Tickseed 

Hardy  Aster  Lavender 
Tall  Larkspur 
Lupines 
Beard's  Tongue 
Lavender  Flag 
Japanese  Bellflower 
Monkshood 
Blue  Bonnet 
Tall  Larkspur 
Baby's  Breath 
Speedwell 
Chinese  Larkspur 
Early  Pink  Phlox 
Live  Forever 
Avens 

Yellow  Columbine 
Red  Chrysanthemum 
Beard's  Tongue 
Salmon  Pink  Hardy  Phlox 
Baby's  Breath 
Foxgloves 
Japanese  Iris 
Yellow  Flags 
Golden  Chrysanthemum 
Pink  Sweet  William 
Yellow  Columbine 
Oriental  Poppy 
White  Chinese  Larkspur 
Pink  Japanese  Anemone 
Leopard's  Bane 
Scarlet  Phlox 
White  Foxglove 
Blanket  Flower 
Sweet  William 

Golden  Chrysanthemum 

Live  Forever 

Tickseed 

Dwarf  Early  Pink  Phlox 

Japanese  Iris 

Baby's  Breath 

Red  Columbine 

Pink  Hardy  Chrysanthemum 

Sweet  William 

Tickseed 

Blanket  Flower 

Peony 

Black-eved  Susan 

Coral  Bells 

Baby's  Breath 

Pyramidal  Box,  4-5' 

Pyramidal  Cedar,  4-5' 

6-8" 

Standard  Eng.  Hawthorn,  6" 
stems 


THE  FLOWER  GARDEN  133 

The  entire  garden  area  should  be  on  one  plane  if  it  is  possible  to 
so  construct  it  at  not  too  great  an  expense.  This  level  should  be 
somewhat  below  the  established  grade  of  the  house  line  (Fig.  113). 
Where  the  slope  of  the  ground  is  too  steep  for  such  treatment,  two 
or  three  levels  may  be  estabhshed.  A  garden  constructed  on  dif- 
ferent levels  may  be  made  very  interesting,  as  it  affords  an  oppor- 
tunity to  introduce  many  architectural  features  and  to  vary  greatly 
the  planting  on  the  different  planes. 

GARDEN    BACKGROUND 

It  is  important  to  consider  the  garden  from  the  picturesque  point 
of  view.  This  will  include  not  only  the  arrangement  of  the  interior 
beds  but,  quite  as  important,  the  setting  of  the  surrounding  plan- 
tations. The  background  (Fig.  117)  should  be  dense,  of  a  varied 
assortment  of  plants.  Where  space  permits,  and  the  height  of  the 
plants  will  not  interfere  with  the  view,  make  a  background  of  White 
Pine,  Hemlock,  Birch,  Beech,  IMaple  and  Ash.  Such  a  combination 
will  give  pleasing  contrast  at  all  seasons  of  the  year,  especially  in 
the  Fall,  when  the  foliage  of  the  deciduous  trees  turns  to  brilliant 
shades  of  red  and  yellow.  On  extensi\-e  grounds  such  a  back- 
ground planting  may  be  placed  some  distance  from  the  garden  and 
particularly  so  when  there  is  a  little  rise  in  the  ground  beyond  the 
end  of  the  garden. 

WTien  the  garden  area  extends  to  the  party  line  it  is  necessary 
to  provide  a  high  hedge  or  wall  which  will  rise  above  the  horizon. 
If  a  wall  is  used  it  should  be  partly  clothed  with  vines  as  green  is 
the  most  satisfactory  garden  background  (Fig.  118).  It  is  pos- 
sible sometimes  to  so  locate  the  garden  that  a  natural  background 
on  the  adjoining  property  may  be  taken  advantage  of. 

A  pleasing  effect  may  often  be  secured  in  gardens  enclosed  by  a 
wall,  by  introducing  flowering  trees  and  shrubs  in  the  plantations 
immediately  without,  so  that  the  branches  may  be  trained  to  hang 
over  the  wall  to  meet  the  floral  ensemble  within. 

GARDEN   ENCLOSURES 

The  garden  in  the  sense  that  it  is  used  in  these  paragraphs  refers 
to  a  portion  of  the  estate  set  aside  as  an  enclosed  feature.  An  en- 
closure provides  privacy  and  seclusion  to  those  who  would  walk  or 
work  among  the  flowers;    it  is  a  protection  to  the  growing  plants, 


134  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


liff) — 


'In  square  or  nearly  square  gardens  curved  lines  give  a  greater  variety,  especially  within  a   small  compass" 


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THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  135 


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THE    FLOWER   GARDEN 


137 


138  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

affords  a  background  and,  in  concealing  the  garden  from  without, 
leaves  something  to  the  imagination  and  more  to  be  appreciated 
from  a  vantage  point  in  the  house. 

Garden  enclosures  may  be  of  stone,  brick,  stucco  or  plants  in 
the  form  of  a  hedge. 

HEIGHT  OF  GARDEN  ENCLOSURES 

The  height  of  outer  garden  enclosures  will  vary  according  to 
the  surroundings.  Where  the  outlook  is  not  particularly  attractive 
they  may  be  six  or  seven  feet  high.  High  walls  are  also  a  necessity 
in  some  localities  as  a  protection  to  the  plants.  Where  it  is  thought 
best  to  maintain  views  of  the  surrounding  landscape  a  wall  three  to 
five  feet  high  is  sufficient.  Subordinate  garden  walls  should  not 
be  more  than  three  to  four  feet  high.  On  a  small  place,  where  the 
scene  must  be  made  within  the  enclosure,  a  high  wall  is  necessary. 


GARDEN   WALLS 

When  walls  are  adopted  as  an  enclosure  for  the  garden  they 
should  always  be  of  the  same  material  as  the  house.  If  the  house 
walls  are  stuccoed  the  sides  of  the  garden  wall  should  also  be  stuccoed, 
though,  to  provide  a  slight  contrast,  the  piers  and  coping  may  be  of 
brick.  This  refers  to  gardens  which  are  adjacent  to  residences. 
When  they  are  set  apart,  more  or  less  isolated  from  the  house, 
the  material  may  differ  from  that  in  the  building. 

When  walls  of  stone,  brick,  or  stucco  are  used  for  the  garden 
enclosures  they  should  be  designed  along  artistic  lines  and  be  in 
perfect  harmony  with  the  scene  to  be  created. 


GRAY    SANDSTONE    WALLS 

Soft  gray  sandstone  (Fig.  118)  with  an  occasional  marking  of  red 
and  orange  is  the  most  pleasing  stone  for  the  enclosing  walls.  These 
should  not  be  less  than  eighteen  inches  thick  with  a  footing  course 
to  project  six  inches  beyond  on  each  side,  making  a  thickness  of 
thirty  inches.  The  depth  of  the  footing  should  not  be  less  than 
eight  inches.  The  depth  of  the  foundation  below  the  frost  line  will 
depend  on  the  latitude.  In  Philadelphia  and  vicinity  the  founda- 
tion should  extend  to  a  depth  of  three  feet. 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN 


139 


o 


t.  a 

Q.    <U 


*  •     -° 


H 


140  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENIN(; 

Stone  walls  with  mortar  joints  should  be  less  finished  in  texture 
than  the  house  walls.  The  joints  should  be  raked  out  to  a  depth 
of  from  two  to  three  inches.  The  shadows  produced  by  this  treat- 
ment have  a  softening  effect  and  the  vines,  extending  their  clinging 
tendrils  into  the  interstices,  seem  to  be  more  firmly  fixed  to  the 
supporting  structure. 

COPING 

The  coping  should  be  of  stone  similar  to  that  in  the  body  of  the 
wall  (Fig.  118),  with  a  projection  of  two  to  three  inches,  according  to 
the  roughness  of  the  face.  This  refers  to  a  coping  of  stones  laid  flat. 
If  the  coping  stones  are  set  on  edge  they  should  be  set  flush  with  the 
sides  of  the  wall.     The  coping  should  be  level  along  the  top. 

The  irregular  or  so-called  scotched  coping  is  not  at  all  satisfactory 
for  a  garden  enclosure,  as  it  is  a  line  of  agitation  and  most  unrestful. 

BRICK   WALLS 

The  brick  wall  (Fig.  119)  as  a  garden  enclosure  is  not  so  pleasing 
from  an  esthetic  point  of  view  as  those  of  other  materials.  Be- 
cause of  the  color  it  does  not  make  a  good  background  for  many  of 
the  flowers.  If  brick  is  used  a  dark  shade  should  be  selected  and 
laid  with  a  broad  mortar  joint. 

A  brick  wall  should  not  be  less  than  twelve  inches  thick  and 
should  be  laid  in  cement  mortar  on  a  good  foundation  of  stone  or 
concrete  extending  not  less  than  four  inches  on  each  side  beyond 
the  face  of  the  finished  wall.  To  economize  on  a  quantity  of  brick 
the  wall  may  be  paneled  and  piers  placed  at  intervals  of  from  ten  to 
tw^elve  feet  apart,  using  a  nine-inch  wall  between  them. 

An  effective  and  practical  wall  may  be  constructed  by  laying 
the  brick  lengthwise,  four  inches  thick,  with  a  two-inch  opening 
between  the  ends.  In  this  construction  the  piers  should  be  placed 
eight  feet  apart. 

The  coping  for  a  brick  wall  may  be  of  brick  on  edge,  molded 
brick,  brick  laid  on  an  angle  of  45  degrees,  cement  cut  stone,  or  tile. 
The  coping  should  have  a  projection  of  not  more  than  an  inch  on 
each  side  of  the  wall.  A  coping  set  flush  is  quite  agreeable.  All 
brick  walls  should  be  clothed  with  clinging  vines  trained  over  the 
top  to  break  the  line  and  soften  the  effect. 


THE    FLOWER    GARDEN 


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PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


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THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  143 

THE   STUCCO   WALL 

The  stucco  wall  may  be  laid  on  stone,  brick,  hollow  tile,  or 
expanded  metal.  The  usual  method  is  to  construct  a  rough  wall 
on  which  is  laid  the  first  or  scratch  coat.  When  this  has  very  nearly 
set  a  second  coat  of  the  color  and  texture  desired  is  applied  and 
finished. 

If  the  rough  wall  is  built  of  brick  it  should  not  be  less  than  nine 
inches  thick,  with  a  firm  foundation  of  eighteen  to  twenty  inches 
of  stone  or  concrete,  extending  below  the  frost  line  usually  from 
two  to  three  feet. 

When  building  a  stucco  wall  on  brick  a  good  effect  may  be  se- 
cured by  having  a  brick  base  and  brick  coping.  The  base  to  con- 
sist of  a  row  of  brick  on  end,  projecting  one  quarter  inch  beyond  the 
finished  mortar  surface.  The  coping  should  be  constructed  of  a  row 
of  brick  on  edge  with  a  very  slight  projection  on  each  side  of  the  wall. 

If  hollow  tile  is  used  for  the  rough  wall  eight-inch  tile  may  be 
used  for  walls  less  than  five  feet  high;  for  walls  abo\'e  that,  twelve 
inch  tiles  should  be  used. 

The  brick  base  and  coping  may  be  effectively  used  with  the 
hollow  tile.     Foundation  should  be  the  same  as  is  used  for  brick. 

Rough  stone  walls  for  stucco  should  not  be  less  than  sixteen 
inches  thick  for  walls  five  feet  high  or  less.  For  walls  above  five  feet 
the  thickness  should  be  at  least  eighteen  inches.  Foundation  should 
be  of  stone  or  concrete,  twenty  to  twenty-two  inches  thick  and  ex- 
tending below  the  frost  line. 

The  most  economical  stucco  wall  is  that  laid  on  expanded  metal 
(Fig.  120)  supported  by  channel  iron  set  at  intervals  of  one  foot, 
with  four  channel  irons  set  at  intervals  of  eight  feet  in  the  form  of  a 
square,  six  inches  apart,  as  a  reinforcement.  The  cement  mortar 
is  worked  through  the  openings  in  the  expanded  metal  and,  after 
it  becomes  hardened,  the  scratch  coat  is  applied  to  the  other  side, 
the  mortar  clinging  to  the  keys  formed  by  the  mortar  worked  through 
the  openings.  The  finish  coat  of  the  texture  and  finish  desired  is 
then  applied. 

The  posts  for  such  a  wall  should  extend  to  a  depth  of  two  feet 
and  be  set  in  concrete.  For  the  remainder  of  the  wall  it  is  only 
necessary  to  have  the  mortar  extend  six  inches  below  the  grade 
line. 

The  coping  should  be  of  mortar  two  and  one-half  inches  thick, 


144  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

beveled  on  top,  with  a  projection  of  about  one-half  inch  on  each 
side.  All  stucco  walls  should  be  covered  with  quick  growing  vines. 
Boston  I\^  (Ampelopsis  Veikhii),  Red-berried  Euonymus  (Euonymus 
vegetus),  and  English  Ivy  (Hedcra  helix)  are  suitable. 

DRY   STONE   WALLS 

The  rubble  stone  wall  of  field  boulders  is  most  satisfactory, 
and,  when  partly  covered  by  vines,  is  highly  picturesque.  The 
dry  wall  may  also  be  used  to  enclose  the  garden,  especially  in  loca- 
tions where  good  rock  is  to  be  had  on  the  ground.  When  used  for 
this  purpose  they  should  batter  or  break  back  from  each  side,  vines 
to  be  planted  along  the  full  length  at  irregular  intervals.  The  vines 
should  not  be  allowed  to  cover  the  entire  wall.  Rather,  for  reasons 
of  contrast,  and  to  show  decidedly  the  limitations  of  the  garden 
and  the  formidableness  of  the  retaining  and  supporting  walls,  quite 
good  stretches  of  it  should  be  left  uncovered. 

Rubble  walls  (Fig.  121)  are  particularly  good  where  a  retaining 
wall  is  required  to  maintain  an  embankment.  The  dry  wall  is  less 
expensive  than  one  laid  in  mortar  and  gives  a  greater  latitude  for 
ornamental  treatment.  Quarried  stone  or  stone  gathered  on  the 
property  may  be  used  for  this  purpose.  The  larger  the  stones  the 
better.  If  the  stones  are  from  a  quarry  they  should  be  as  long  as 
it  is  possible  to  secure  them. 

The  dry  wall  should  have  a  batter  of  not  less  than  one  inch  to 
the  foot,  and  where  it  is  proposed  to  use  Alpine  plants  in  the  inter- 
stices it  is  better  to  have  a  batter  of  three  inches  to  the  foot.  The 
building  of  a  dry  wall  for  plants  is  given  in  greater  detail  in  the 
chapter  on  Rock  Plants. 

HEDGES 

The  hedges  of  various  plants  are  much  less  expensive  and  fulfil 
many  requirements  as  a  dividing  line  between  lawn  and  garden. 
The  Privet  hedge  is  the  most  popular,  as  its  quick  growth  and  dark 
green  leafage  form  an  excellent  background  in  a  short  period  of 
time.  The  California  Privet  {Ligustrum  ovalifoliuni),  which  is  most 
frequently  used,  is  not  hardy  in  some  latitudes;  the  tops  are  occa- 
sionally killed  to  the  ground  in  Philadelphia,  and  instances  are  .re- 
ported of  the  same  damage  being  done  in  Kentucky.  For  cold 
latitudes   the   variety  Ligustrum   Ibota   is   more   satisfactory.     The 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


145 


146  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

Ligustrum  Regelianum  is  an  excellent  hedge  plant  where  it  is  de- 
sired to  have  a  more  picturesque  enclosure.  This  plant  is  most  at- 
tractive as  a  boundary  to  a  wild  garden,  the  lights  and  shadows 
being  highly  contrasted,  giving  a  pleasing  variety  to  this  formal  fea- 
ture more  in  tune  with  naturalistic  surrounding.  The  variety 
Ligustrum  amurense  is  much  the  best  variety  to  use  south  of 
Washington;  it  rarely  loses  its  leaves  during  the  Winter  and,  in 
the  Carolinas,  Tennessee  and  Georgia  it  is  evergreen. 

The  Hemlock  Spruce  {Tsuga  canadensis)  (Fig.  122)  hedge  has 
been  little  used  of  late  years,  probably  on  account  of  its  costliness, 
certainly  not  because  it  lacks  beauty  of  outline  or  texture.  The 
color  is  excellent  as  a  background  and,  after  growing  to  the  re- 
quired height,  it  is  much  more  formidable  in  appearance  than  the 
deciduous  hedges.  For  quick  effect  the  Arborvitae  (Thuya  occident- 
alis)  is  most  valuable.  It  is  practicable  to  secure  specimens  of 
this  variety  of  any  height  up  to  seven  feet,  which  is  an  advantage 
for  instances  where  it  is  desired  to  have  an  immediate  efifect. 
The  color  is  not  so  good  for  a  background  as  plants  of  a  darker 
shade  of  green  but,  nevertheless,  is  recommended  as  a  hedge 
plant  of  merit. 

The  general  character  of  the  garden  will  be  improved  by  using 
piers  at  the  corners  and  entrance.  It  adds  dignity  to  the  scenes 
and  defines  the  outline  more  clearly.  In  large  gardens,  where  a 
long  line  of  hedge  is  somewhat  monotonous  and  at  times  irregular 
in  alignment,  it  is  well  to  construct  piers  at  regular  intervals,  for 
variety,  and  to  maintain  a  more  regular  line  than  is  otherwise 
possible. 

RETAINING   WALLS 

If  it  is  found  advisable  to  construct  the  garden  on  more  than  one 
level,  much  thought  should  be  given  to  the  selection  of  material 
and  the  design  of  the  necessary  steps  and  retaining  walls. 

How  much  more  effective  is  a  treatment  of  retaining  walls  (Fig. 
121)  than  the  slope,  so  generally  adopted  for  each  succeeding  level ! 
Such  slopes  are  difficult  to  mow  and,  in  a  dry  Summer,  the  turf  burns 
out  badly. 

The  use  of  stone  as  retaining  walls  between  garden  levels  is  not 
so  generally  adopted  as  it  should  be.  The  dry  stone  wall  is  especi- 
ally worthy  of  greater  use.  The  foundations  of  garden  walls  should 
always  extend  at  least  two  feet  six  inches  below  grade  and  batter 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


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THE   FLOWER   GARDEN  149 

two  inches  to  the  foot.  The  thickness  of  retaining  walls  will  de- 
pend on  the  height  it  is  necessary  to  make  them.  As  a  general 
rule,  a  thickness  at  the  base  of  one-half  the  height  will  be  found 
satisfactory.  A  great  deal  depends,  however,  on  the  physical  struc- 
ture of  the  soil:  a  sandy,  slippery  soil  will  require  a  stronger  wall 
than  a  hard,  clayey  soil,  the  latter  being  more  self-retaining.  Given 
a  retaining  wall  with  a  northwest  exposure,  a  scheme  of  wall  plant- 
ing is  possible;  pockets  may  be  left  in  the  wall  and  tilled  with  soil 
for  plants.  Alyssum  saxatile,  Heuchera  sanguineum,  Sedums, 
Arabis  albida,  Aquilegias,  Gypsophila,  Valeriana,  Santolina,  and 
many  other  plants,  are  suitable  for  such  a  purpose. 

G.\RDEN    STEPS 

Garden  steps  (Fig.  123)  built  of  stone  or  brick  require  a  greater 
breadth  of  treatment  than  is  necessary  for  these  features  in  connec- 
tion with  buildings.  The  risers  should  be  close  to  six  inches,  and 
the  tread  at  least  fourteen  inches  in  width. 

Steps  either  approaching  the  garden,  or  within  the  enclosure,  may 
be  built  with  cheek  blocks  at  the  ends  or  with  the  ends  built  into  the 
slope  and  planted  with  Ivy  or  Euonymus  to  cover  the  raw  appear- 
ance. This  is  more  pleasing  than  the  harsh  lines  of  the  cheek 
blocks. 

PIERS 

All  retaining  boundary  w^alls  should  terminate  in  piers  and 
the  corners  and  entrances  (Fig.  118)  of  walls  and  hedges  should  be 
defined  by  similar  features. 

When  the  piers  are  built  in  a  garden  where  a  hedge  is  to  be  the 
enclosure,  the  piers  should  be  from  twenty-four  to  thirty  inches 
wide;  the  hedge  should  be  kept  the  same  width  and  not  allowed  to 
become  wider  than  the  piers. 

Piers  at  corners  or  entrances  should  be  built  the  same  height 
as  the  wall  and  the  coping  (Fig.  118)  returned  around  the  pier  as  a 
mark  of  accentuation.  An  additional  stone  placed  on  top  of  the 
coping,  and  set  back  six  or  seven  inches  from  the  edge,  is  very 
effective. 

Where  the  entrance  is  to  be  featured  by  a  gate  or  arch  it  is 
necessary  to  have  the  piers  higher  than  the  wall.  Under  such  con- 
ditions it  is  more  pleasing  to  have  a  ramp  (Fig.  124)  from  the  top  of 


150 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


the  wall  to  a  point  near  the  top  of  the  pier.  This  is  more  pleasing 
than  to  have  the  pier  standing  high  above  the  wall. 

The  same  treatment  should  be  applied  at  the  intersection  of 
two  walls  when,  for  reasons  of  grade,  it  is  necessary  to  keep  one 
below  the  other. 

If  the  garden  is  on  several  levels  and  it  is  necessary  to  keep  the 
cross  walls  flush  with  the  grade  a  ramp  (Fig.  125)  should  be  used 
to  tie  the  side  and  cross  walls  together  gracefully. 

WALKS   AND   BEDS 

The  interior  arrangement  of  walks  and  beds  must  be  practical 
and  simple  in  outline,  avoiding  a  complication  of  geometrical  figures 
which  are  unrestful  and  difficult  to  keep  up.  Straight  lines  (Fig. 
126)  always  give  more  character  than  curved  ones  and  are  much 
easier  to  maintain. 

WALKS — WIDTH 

The  width  of  the  paths  will  be  regulated  more  or  less  by  the 
area  devoted  to  the  garden,  but  they  should  always  be  as  broad  as 


Fig.  124. — Ramp  in  wall  to  meet  high  pier  at  garden  entrance.— See  page  149 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


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PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


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PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.   128. — An  effective  use  of  brick  for  a  garden  walk,  with    bricks    on    edge   for  a 

border. — See  page  155 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN  155 

the  space  will  allow.  In  the  smallest  formal  garden  the  minimum 
width  should  be  four  feet  for  the  main  paths,  while  the  others  may 
be  as  small  as  two  and  one-half  feet. 

WALKS — MATERI.^LS 

Garden  walks  may  be  constructed  of  a  variety  of  materials; 
among  the  most  popular  are  gravel,  brick,  field  stones,  flagstone, 
tan  bark  and  turf.  The  element  of  color  is  important  and  should 
be  given  careful  consideration.  For  this  reason  the  grayish  tint 
of  crushed  stone  is  not  pleasing;  limestone  is  too  glaring. 

TURF   WALKS 

The  turf  path  (Fig.  127)  is  the  most  attractive  of  all.  It  is 
pleasant  to  walk  on,  restful  to  the  eye,  and  blends  delightfully  with 
the  varying  shades  of  color  in  the  plantings.  It  makes  a  har- 
monious groundwork  for  floral  effects  desired  without  fear  of  dis- 
cordant contrast. 

BRICK   WALKS 

Bricks  of  rich,  dark  shades  (Figs.  12S  and  129)  are  very  agreeable 
for  garden  walks.  Occasional  application  of  boiled  linseed  oil  will 
darken  the  surface  and  give  a  more  beautiful  texture.  The  bricks 
should  be  laid  in  the  basket  (Fig.  50)  or  herring  bone  pattern  (Fig. 
52),  with  a  neat  border  on  end  or  edge. 

RED    GRAVEL 

If  red  gravel  is  used  it  should  be  spread  over  a  base  of  crushed 
stone  at  least  four  inches  deep,  and  there  should  not  be  less  than 
two  inches  of  gravel,  rolled  and  thoroughly  compacted. 

STEPPING   STONES 

The  field  stone  or  stepping  stone  walk  (Fig.  53)  is  picturesque 
and  gives  an  appearance  of  age  to  the  garden.  A  single  row  of 
stones  is  much  the  best  arrangement,  as  it  leaves  a  greater  portion  of 
the  walk  in  greensward. 

FLAGSTONES 

Flagstones  laid  with  turf  interstices  are  a  change  and  give  a 
satisfactory  transition  from  the  lawn  to  the  utilitarian  feature.  The 
stones  may  be  laid  regularly  or  broken  in  irregular  shapes  and  laid 
in  broken  range.  If  a  mortar  joint  is  used  (Figs.  44  and  45)  it 
should  be  finished  flush  with  the  stone  surface. 


156  rRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE    GARDENING 

SLATE 

Slate  slabs,  laid  the  same  as  the  flagstones,  are  very  pleasing  in 
color  and  are  very  serviceable.  Slates  may  be  had  beautifully 
mottled  with  brown  and  gray. 

TANBARK 

Tanbark  walks  have  fallen  into  disuse,  most  likely  on  account 
of  the  care  and  expense  of  upkeep.  The  color  is  good  and  the  tex- 
ture comfortable  under  foot.  The  sub-base  for  tanbark  should  be  the 
same  as  for  macadam,  with  an  inch  of  the  tanbark  as  a  finish.  A 
curb  or  border  is  necessary  to  keep  the  material  within  bounds. 

BORDERS 

When  gravel,  brick  or  tanbark  is  used  in  path  construction 
it  should  be  bordered  with  turf  or  Box  (Fig.  129),  or  both.  Turf 
borders  should  not  be  less  than  twelve  inches  wide  and,  where  space 
permits,  wider.  If  the  turf  border  is  too  narrow  the  periodic  edging 
reduces  it  to  irregular  widths.  For  this  reason  stone  or  brick  on 
end  or  edge  is  often  preferable. 

GARDEN   BEDS — WIDTH 

Beds  which  may  be  reached  from  two  sides  can  be  six  feet  wide; 
those  which  can  be  worked  from  one  side  only  should  not  be  more 
than  three  feet  wide. 

The  beds  should  never  be  placed  next  to  a  hedge,  as  the  roots  of 
the  stronger  growing  hedge  plants  become  very  troublesome  to  the 
cultivated  and  enriched  area.  Under  some  conditions  it  is  not 
possible  to  avoid  having  a  bed  next  to  the  hedge;  in  such  cases  a 
three-inch  concrete  wall,  two  and  one-half  feet  deep,  constructed 
along  the  inside  of  the  hedge,  will  help  to  force  the  hedge  roots  in  the 
opposite  direction. 

PREPARING    GARDEN   BEDS 

A  successful  garden  will  depend  greatly  on  the  preparation  of 
the  soil,  care  in  planting  and  the  upkeep.  Garden  beds  should 
contain  from  eighteen  inches  to  two  feet  of  good  friable  soil.  If  it 
is  not  possible  to  supply  all  beds  with  this  amount  of  good  soil  en- 
riched with  well  rotted  cow  manure,  the  available  top  soil  on  the 
garden  area  should  be  stripped,  the  manure  dug  into  the  bottom  soil 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN 


157 


Fig.    129.— Brick  garden  walk,|laici  diagonally  on  edge  and    bordered    with    Box.— See 

pages  155,  156 


158 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENLNG 


Figs.  130  and  I3L — "The  construction  and  setting  of  the  garden  are  second  in  importance 
to  the  floral  ensemble."     Contrast  these  two  scenes  ! — See  page  159 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN  159 

and  the  top  soil  replaced.  If  the  bottom  soil  is  heavy  and  does  not 
afiford  good  drainage,  sufficient  sand  or  coal  ashes  should  be  added 
in  addition  to  the  manure.  A  free  circulation  of  air  and  abundant 
moisture  are  requisites  of  root  growth;  and  soil  preparation  should 
be  such  that  will  make  these  readily  available.  Coal  ashes  worked 
into  bottom  soil  will  afford  good  drainage  and,  at  the  same  time, 
supply  moisture  from  the  lower  strata  by  capillary  attraction. 

HUMUS 

Humus  in  the  form  of  decayed  vegetable  matter  from  bogs  or 
lakes  should  be  used  generously  in  preparing  garden  beds.  This 
material  is  rich  in  plant  foods  and,  worked  well  into  the  surface  soil, 
lessens  the  tendency  to  puddle  or  bake. 

FLORAL    TREATMENT 

The  construction  and  setting  of  the  garden,  essential  as  these 
are  to  its  success,  are  second  in  importance  to  the  floral  ensemble 
(Figs.  130  and  131).  In  the  selection  and  arrangement  of  the  flowers 
(Fig.  132)  a  great  deal  of  liberty  may  be  exercised  and  personal 
tastes  indulged.  The  best  planned  and  most  enjoyable  gardens  are 
those  which  provide  a  sequence  of  bloom,  starting  with  the  Snow- 
drops and  Crocuses  in  early  Spring  and  continuing  on  through  the 
Spring,  Summer  and  Fall  until  the  waning  season  is  brightened  by 
such  old  favorites  as  the  Japanese  Anemones  and  ushered  out  by 
the  hardy  Chrysanthemums. 

An  important  subject  to  be  considered  in  the  arrangement  of  the 
flowers  is  that  of  balance.  The  height  of  the  foliage  and  bloom  on 
one  side  of  the  garden  should  have  a  corresponding  unit  on  the 
other,  not  necessarily  the  same  plant,  but  there  should  be  some 
degree  of  similarity  in  outline  and  color. 

Much  has  been  written  of  color  in  the  garden.  I  would  lay 
stress  on  these  few  points.  It  is  well  to  keep  the  purples  and  blues 
at  some  distance  from  the  principal  point  of  view;  the  lighter  colors 
should  be  in  the  foreground.  This  will  enhance  the  distance  and 
give  a  pleasing  graduation  of  color. 

The  question  of  mass  should  be  given  consideration.  Most  of 
the  perennials  have  but  a  short  season  of  bloom  after  which  they 
are  of  little  use.  In  selecting  varieties  for  large  clumps,  those  with 
a  long  blooming  season  should  be  chosen.     Exceptions  to  this  rule 


160 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENLNG 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


161 


CQ 


162  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

are  such  plants  as  German  and  Japanese  Irises.  These  plants  have 
foliage  of  artistic  excellence  contrasting  well  with  other  features  in 
the  garden. 

Very  often  large  spaces  occupied  by  plants  of  short  blooming 
season  may  be  brightened  by  the  use  of  some  Summer  flowering 
bulbs,  such  as  the  Gladioli.  Larkspurs  (Fig.  132),  Phlox,  some  of 
the  Bellflowers,  Chrysanthemums,  and  Japanese  Anemones  are 
good  in  masses, 

BULBS 

Bulbs  should  have  a  more  intimate  place  in  the  garden  than  is 
customary  (Fig.  L33).  Not  in  straight  rows,  but  planted  in  clumps 
along  the  edges  of  the  beds. 

ANNUALS 

Regardless  of  the  care  exercised  in  the  selection  and  placing  of 
the  plants,  the  garden  will  not  be  altogether  a  success  without  the 
introduction  of  annuals  (Fig.  L34).  Among  the  annuals  are  some 
of  the  most  showy  and  useful  plants  that  we  have  and  they  can  be 
raised  at  a  very  small  cost. 

Annuals  are  familiar  to  all  and  it  is  only  necessary  to  say  that 
the  dull  spots  and  bare  spaces  in  the  garden  may  be  brightened  if  a 
little  forethought  is  given  each  Spring  to  the  raising  of  some  Pansies, 
Snapdragons,  Asters,  Larkspurs,  Zinnias,  and  other  easily  trans- 
planted kinds. 

The  time  to  sow  annuals  is  in  the  months  of  April  and  May. 
The  directions  printed  on  the  package  as  to  the  seeding,  soil,  watering 
and  care  should  be  followed  closely. 

For  the  time  and  expense  required  nothing  will  return  so  large 
a  dividend  in  wealth  of  color  and  general  satisfaction  as  the  use  of 
annuals. 

HARDY    SHRUBS 

Hardy  shrubs,  too,  have  a  place  in  the  flower  garden.  Where 
the  breadth  is  sufficient  to  allow  unhampered  development,  these 
plants  will  give  more  character  to  the  garden  and  afford  a  back- 
ground for  the  flowers.  Their  use  is  appreciated  in  breaking  up 
broad  views  and  establishing  vistas  to  distant  and  interesting  points. 
The  Deutzias,  Philadelphus  coronarius,  Kerria  japonica,  Viburnums, 
Syringas,   Spiraeas  and   Buddleias   are   all   good   shrubs   for  garden 


THE    FLOWER   GARDEN  163 

use.  Planted  as  specimens  they  should  be  well  separated,  always 
leaving  ample  space  for  the  herbaceous  plants  between  the  individual 
shrubs.  Oftentimes  shrubs  in  the  garden  may  be  utilized  to  shade 
and  protect  some  rather  tender  perennials  or  hardy  bulbs. 

EVERGREENS 

Unless  we  would  have  the  garden  almost  devoid  of  interest 
during  the  Winter  months  it  is  well  to  introduce  some  evergreens. 
These  should  be  placed  at  regular  intervals  and  always  at  the  corners 
and  ends  of  the  beds,  where  they  are  bisected  by  walks  (Fig.  135). 
If  a  large  area  is  provided  in  the  center  of  the  garden  for  some  such 
ornament  as  a  sundial  or  bird  bath,  evergreens  may  be  used  here  to 
good  effect.  The  pyramidal  conifers  are  the  best  suited  for  garden 
planting,  and  such  varieties  as  pyramidal  Box,  Biotas,  Arborvitses 
and  tall  Junipers  are  recommended. 

For  general  garden  planting  varieties  having  dark  green  foliage 
are  most  desiiable.  Junipers  with  light  colored  foliage,  such  as 
chinense  and  virginiana  glauca,  contrast  poorly  with  the  foliage 
of  the  flowers  and  against  the  gray  stone  of  garden  enclosures,  when 
stone  is  used.  The  golden  tipped  kinds,  too,  should  be  omitted  from 
the  garden. 

TREATMENT  OF  GARDENS  CONSTRUCTED  ON  MORE  THAN  ONE  LEVEL 

When  the  garden  is  situated  on  two  or  three  levels  it  is  often 
very  practicable  to  devote  the  first  level  to  the  Winter  garden 
planted  to  evergreens  with  areas  of  turf;  the  second  plateau  to 
perennials;  the  third  to  Roses  (Fig.  136).  Where  only  two  levels 
exist,  combine  the  perennials  and  the  Roses  by  placing  the  Roses 
around  the  outer  edge  and  the  herbaceous  plants  and  annuals  in 
the  inner  beds. 

PLANTING   AROUND    GARDEN    ENCLOSURES 

The  outside  line  of  the  garden  enclosure  on  the  lawn  side  should 
always  be  hidden  with  foliage.  A  mixed  plantation  of  flowering 
shrubs,  with  a  few  pyramidal  evergreens  at  the  corners,  is  very  ef- 
fective. In  the  Southern  States,  where  many  of  the  broad-leaved 
evergreens  are  hardy,  the  English  Laurels,  Laurestinus  and  Caro- 
lina Cherry,  should  be  more  widely  used  in  such  plantings.  The 
flowering  shrubs  outside  the  garden,  lifting  their  heads  above  the 
garden  enclosure,  add  a  charm  to  the  scene  quite  in  tune  with  the 


164 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


THE   FLOWER   GARDEN 


165 


H 


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166 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


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68 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  137-Seepage  167 

Fig.  1 37. — An  interesting  garden  plan.     A  circular  fountain  and  pool  in  the  center  of  the 
elliptical  garden  on  the  lower  level  is  the  dominant  feature. — See  page  170 


Kev 

No. 

Qiian. 

I 

9 

2 

12 

3 

7 

4 

12 

42 

5 

S 

10 

6 

10 

7 

7 

12 

15 

13 

7 

14 

12 

IS 

lO 

l6 

10 

17 

7 

l8 

10 

19 

15 

192 

5 

23 

2 

24 

8 

25 

9 

26 

8 

27 

10 

28 

14 

29 

15 

30 

12 

31 

10 

32 

II 

33 

5 

34 

7 

35 

5 

36 

7 

37 

7 

38 

9 

39 

5 

40 

7 

41 

5 

42 

5 

43 

7 

44 

7 

45 

7 

46 

8 

47 

5 

48 

9 

Iris  Kaempferi,  blue 
Phlox  divaricata 
Delphinium  hybridum 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Funkia  lancifolia 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Iris  Candida 

Anchusa,  Dropmore  var. 
V'eronica  spicata 
Platycodon  Mariesi 
Baptisia  australis 
Funkia  caerulea 
Baptisia  australis 
Funkia  lancifolia 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Delphinium  hybridum 
Phlox  divaricata 
Iris  Yolande 
Iris  Thavista 
Aconitum  Xapellus 
Veronica  spicata 
Platycodon  Mariesii 
Funkia  caerulea 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Taxus  baccata  fastigiata 
Taxus  baccata  fastigiata 
Cotoneaster  Simonsii 
Ilex  aquifolium 
Iris  Canary  Bird 
Hemerocallis  flava 
Pentstemon  barbatus 
Arabis  albida 
Phlox  R.  P.  Struthers 
Aquilegia  caerulea 
Paeonia  grandiflora  rubra 
Iberis  sempervirens 
Gypsophila  paniculata 
Paeonia  festiva  maxima 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Funkia  lancifolia 
Chrysanthemum  Sunshine 
Heuchera  sanguinea 
Delphinium  chinense 
Valeriana  officinalis 
Sedum  spectabile 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Funkia  japonica 
Iris  aurea 
Iris  Ksmpferi 
Aquilegia  caerulea 
Phlox  I'Evenement 


Common  Same 

Blue  Japanese  Flag 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
Tall  Larkspur 
Stoke's  Aster 
Plantain  Lily 
Lavender  Flag 
Flag 
Alkanet 
Speedwell 
Chinese  Bellflower 
False  Indigo 
Plantain  Lily 
False  Indigo 
Plantain  Lily 
Stoke's  Aster 
Tall  Larkspur 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
Flag 
Flag 

Monkshood 
Speedwell 
Chinese  Bellflower 
Plantain  Lily 
Blue  Japanese  Flag 
Irish  Yew 
Irish  Yew 
Shining  Rose  Box 
English  Holly 
Yellow  Flag 
Day  Lib- 
Beard's  Tongue 
Rock  Cress 
Phlox 
Columbine 
Red  Peony 
Candytuft 
Baby's  Breath 
White  Peony 
Foxglove 
Plantain  Lily 
Chrysanthemum 
Alum  Root 
Chinese  Larkspur 
Garden  Heliotrope 
Showy  Sedum 
Japanese  Flag 
Lavender  Flag 
Plantain  Lily 
Yellow  Flag 
Japanese  Flag 
Columbine 
Pink  Phlox 


THE   FLOWER  GARDEN 


169 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  1 37-Continued 


Key 

No. 

Quan. 

I'ariV/v 

49 

7 

Rudbeckia  Newmanni 

SO 

7 

Campanula  persicifolia 

SI 

7 

Chrysanthemum  Fairy  Queen 

52 

7 

Gaillardia  compacta 

S3 

8 

Iris  Kaempferi 

S4 

9 

Aquilegia  chrysantha 

S5 

S 

Phlox  Queen 

56 

10 

Lupinus  polypliyllus  albus 

57 

S 

Lilium  candidum 

58 

5 

Plilox  Slocum 

59 

7 

Iris  Yolande 

60 

5 

Iris  Kaempferi 

61 

7 

Valeriana  coccinea 

62 

7 

Funkia  japonica 

63 

10 

Statice  Gmelini 

64 

7 

Chrysanthemum  Boston 

64J 

7 

Funkia  lancifolia 

6S 

9 

Tritoma  Pfitzeriana 

66 

7 

Stokesia  cyanea 

67 

7 

Paeonia  Prince  of  Wales 

68 

9 

Iris  aurea 

69 

8 

Coreopsis  grandiflora 

70 

10 

Scabiosa  caucasica 

71 

7 

Gypsophila  panic.ilata 

-2 

9 

Dianthus  plumarius 

73 

IS 

Phlox  Pantheon 

74 

9 

Campanula  rotuntufolia 

75 

5 

Delphinium  chinense 

76 

14 

Rudbeckia  purpurea 

77 

5 

Paeonia  Duke  of  Wellington 

78 

8 

Iris  Kaempferi 

79 

10 

Platycodon  Mariesii 

80 

7 

Chrysanthemum  Klondike 

81 

10 

Geum  coccineum 

82 

7 

Artemisia  lactiflora 

83 

9 

Phlox  Van  Hochberg 

84 

7 

Iris  Mme.  Chereau 

8S 

8 

Iris  Kaempferi 

86 

7 

Aquilegia  caerulea 

87 

10 

Lupinus  Moerheimi 

88 

5 

Phlox  Ingeberg 

89 

9 

Aquilegia  Skinneri 

90 

S 

Lilium  candidum 

91 

5 

Phlox  Thor 

92 

9 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 

93 

3 

Rhododendron  Wilsoni 

94 

10 

Rhododendron  punctatum 

95 

7 

Rhododendron  caractacus 

96 

7 

Rhododendron  purpurea  elegans 

97 

S 

Rhododendron  Boule  de  Neige 

98 

s 

Rhododendron  Boule  de  Neige 

99 

7 

Rhododendron  purpurea  elegans 

100 

7 

Rhododendron  caractacus 

lOI 

10 

Rhododendron  punctatum 

102 

9 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 

103 

3 

Rhododendron  Wilsoni 

104 

SOO 

Ligustrum  ovalifolium 

I  OS 

2 

Buxus  sempervirens 

Common  Name 
Black-eyed  Susan 
Bellflower,  Peach-leaved 
Pink  Chrysanthemum 
Blanket  Flower 
Japanese  Flag 
Yellow  Columbine 
White  Phlox 
Lupine 

Madonna  Lily 
Phlox 

Purple  Flag 
Japanese  Flag 
Scarlet  \'alerian 
Plantain  Lily 
Sea  Lavender 
Chrysanthemum 
Plantain  Lily 
Red  Hot  Poker  Plant 
Stoke's  Aster 
Peony 
Yellow  Flag 
Tickseed 
Blue  Bonnet 
Baby's  Breath 
Scotch  Pink 
Phlox 
Harebell 

Chinese  Larkspur 
Cone  Flower 
Peony 

Japanese  Flag 
Chinese  Bellflower 
Chrysanthemum 
Avens 

Phlox 

Flag 

Japanese  Flag 

Rocky  Mountain  Columbine 

Lupine 

Hardy  Phlox 

Columbine 

Madonna  Lily 

Hardy  Phlox 

Pink  Hybrid  Rhododendron 

Dwarf  Rhododendron 

Dwarf  Rhododendron 

Red  Rhododendron 

Purple  Rhododendron 

Hybrid  Rhododendron 

Hybrid  Rhododendron 

Purple  Rhododendron 

Red  Rhododendron 

Dwarf  Rhododendron 

Pink  Rhododendron 

Dwarf  Rhododendron 

California  Privet 

Box  Bush 


170  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

floral  effects  within,  and  the  sinuous  outline  of  the  border  plantation 
is  in  perfect  harmony  with  the  naturalistic  aspect  of  the  garden  from 
without.  At  desirable  viewpoints  the  planting  should  be  low  so  that 
a  glimpse  may  be  had  of  the  lawn,  plantations  or  distant  scenes. 

Lilacs  are  particularly  good  for  planting  immediately  outside 
the  garden  enclosure;  also  the  Japanese  Snowballs,  the  Rose  of 
Sharon,  and  Deutzias.  It  is  here  that  we  may  use  the  shrubs  of 
upright  character  that  produce  their  greatest  wealth  of  bloom  toward 
the  top.  Berried  plants  should  also  be  considered  in  these  plan- 
tations. The  Wayfaring  Tree  {Viburnum  lantana),  Hercules'  Club 
(Aralia  spinosa),  Photinia  villosa,  the  Hawthorns,  Burning  Bush 
{Euonymus),  Flowering  Dogwood  (Cornus  florida),  Bush  Honey- 
suckle (Lonicera),  and  the  deciduous  Holly  {Ilex  verticillata) ,  are  all 
adaptable  to  such  a  purpose.  Additional  Winter  color  may  be 
secured  by  planting  the  red  and  yellow  twigged  Dogwoods  and,  if 
the  scope  of  the  plantation  admits,  a  few  Red  Birch. 

The  keynote  of  a  successful  garden  setting  is  to  so  plant  and 
arrange  it  that  it  will  have  the  appearance  of  having  existed  before 
the  garden  was  formed. 

WATER   IN   THE    GARDEN 

A  water  feature  (Fig.  137)  is  by  far  the  most  delightful  note  in 
the  garden  and  gives  added  interest  by  reflecting  the  color  of  the 
flowers  on  its  surface.  It  has  the  additional  attribute  of  attracting 
the  birds  who  come  for  their  morning  bath,  thus  adding  a  pleasing 
touch  of  life  to  the  scene,  usually  augmented  by  a  grateful  carol  of 
appreciation.  More  detailed  notes  on  this  subject  will  be  found 
in  the  chapter  on  architectural  features  of  the  garden. 


ARCHITECTURAL    FEATURES   OF   THE   GARDEN  171 


CHAPTER  VII! 


ARCHITECTURAL  FEATURES  OF  THE  GARDEN 

The  flower  garden,  even  that  of  the  tiniest  dimensions,  does 
not  seem  complete  without  some  garden  ornament,  and  in  this  day 
of  great  possibilities  in  this  line,  with  the  material  procurable  at  but 
little  expense,  the  desire  is  easy  of  fulfilment. 

The  architectural  adornments  of  the  garden  cover  many  features: 
from  the  humble  seat  to  the  magnificent  garden  house. 

The  use  of  garden  ornaments  will  depend  greatly  on  their  proper 
placing.  The  bird  bath  or  fountain,  placed  in  the  center  of  a  gar- 
den, on  the  axis  of  the  paths,  is  appropriate  and  satisfying,  even 
though  it  may  be  one  of  very  simple  design. 

SUNDIALS 

The  sundial,  upon  which  so  many  lines  have  been  inscribed,  both 
pleasant  and  harsh,  is  a  garden  ornament  of  many  years'  standing. 
The  designs  range  from  the  most  simple  and  severe  to  the  most 
elaborately  ornate. 

The  sundial  is  usually  treated  as  a  central  feature,  or  placed  at 
the  terminus  of  a  walk,  and  is  generally  quite  conspicuous  as  one 
enters  the  garden.  It  is,  therefore,  a  pleasant  relief  at  times  to 
tind  it  treated  as  an  isolated  feature  and  placed  in  some  secluded 
nook  where  it  conveys  much  more  charm  by  coming  upon  it  unex- 
pectedly. If  such  a  position  is  chosen  care  must  be  exercised  in  the 
plantings  to  avoid  high  growing  plants  which  would  interfere  with 
the  sun's  rays  on  the  dial. 

The  expertness  with  which  cement  is  manipulated  today  has 
made  it  possible  to  produce  substantial  sundials  at  a  moderate  cost, 
and  they  may  be  had  in  many  unique  and  diversified  designs. 

When  setting  the  pedestal  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that  a 
substantial  foundation  is  provided;  this  foundation  may  be  con- 
structed of  brick,  stone  or  concrete;  if  of  brick  or  stone  it  should 
be  laid  in  cement  mortar. 

If  the  sundial  is  placed  where  the  turf  will  run  up  to  the  base 


172  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

the  foundation  should  be  built  the  neat  width  or  diameter,  as  turf 
burns  out  readily  in  shallow  soil  over  stone,  brick  or  concrete. 

In  choosing  a  pedestal  of  artificial  stone  it  is  advisable  to  select 
one  of  simple  outline  and  free  from  ornamentation,  as  the  elements 
soon  work  havoc  with  the  cement  ornaments. 

The  sundial  should  always  be  elevated  at  least  one  foot  above 
the  surrounding  level  and  the  paved  area  should  be  wide  enough  to 
allow  one  to  stand  comfortably  upon  it  when  reading  the  dial. 

BIRD   BATHS 

The  bird  bath  (Fig.  138)  is  an  attractive  feature,  worthy  of  much 
wider  usage.  It  is  not  alone  charming  as  an  architectural  feature, 
but  has  the  additional  merit  of  attracting  the  birds  to  the  confines  of 
the  garden,  enlivening  the  scene  by  the  touch  of  life,  color  and  song. 

The  bird  font  should  be  set  in  a  conspicuous  position  where  the 
little  feathered  visitors  may  be  watched  from  some  vantage  point. 

It  is  important  to  provide  a  firm  foundation  for  the  font  and  to 
furnish  water  direct  through  a  galvanized  wrought  iron  pipe  con- 
nected with  the  general  water  supply.  A  good  fountain  spray  may 
be  secured  by  using  an  adjustable  hose  nozzle,  which  will  provide  a 
single  column  of  water  or  a  fine  spray,  whichever  is  desired. 

The  basin  should  always  be  placed  on  a  fairly  high  pedestal  as  a 
protection  against  cats  and  other  animals  which  prey  upon  the 
birds. 

FOUNTAINS    AND   POOLS 

The  fountain  (Fig.  139)  is  a  garden  feature  greatly  admired  by 
all.  The  sound  of  falling  water  is  ever  a  source  of  great  delight. 
When  the  fountain  has  a  surrounding  pool  the  water  should  always 
be  on  the  same  level  as  the  garden,  or  below  that  level.  Instances 
are  frequent  where  this  rule  is  not  observed  and  the  water  allowed 
to  rise  to  a  plane  above  the  surrounding  ground.  The  lack  of  re- 
pose in  such  a  pool  is  very  noticeable;    such  a  situation  is  incorrect. 

Pools  or  fountains  (Fig.  140)  are  at  their  best  when  placed  in  the 
center  of  the  garden  or  at  the  end  of  a  vista  down  a  garden  walk 
or  broad  turf  area. 

DEPTH 

Pools  should  never  be  less  than  twenty-two  inches  deep  when  it 
is  desired  to  grow  Water  Lilies.  Two  feet  or  two  feet  six  inches  are 
even  better  depths. 


ARCHITECTURAL    FEATURES   OF    THE   GARDEN  173 

CONSTRUCTION 

Pool  walls  (Fig.  141)  may  be  constructed  of  brick  or  concrete. 

Brick  walls  should  be  one  and  one-half  brick  thick,  coated  on 
the  inside  with  a  Portland  cement  mortar  in  which  some  water- 
proofing should  be  incorporated.  The  bricks  should  be  laid  in  a 
waterproofed  cement  mortar. 

Concrete  walls  should  be  six  inches  thick,  consisting  of  tive  inches 
of  reinforced  concrete  and  a  one-inch  finish  coat.  A  waterproofing 
material  should  be  incorporated  both  in  the  general  mix  and  in  the 
finish  coat,  or  a  damp-proofing  and  bonding  paint  applied  to  the 
rough  surface  before  the  finish  coat  is  applied. 

Pool  bottoms  will  depend  on  the.  size  of  the  pool  and  the  char- 
acter of  the  soil.  They  should  have  a  base  of  cinders  or  crushed 
stone,  to  prevent  hea\'ing,  on  which  should  be  laid  a  slab  of  five 
inches  of  waterproofed  reinforced  concrete  with  a  finish  coat  of  one 
inch.  If  concrete  walls  are  to  be  built  the  reinforcing  iron  should 
be  long  enough  to  turn  up. 

POOL   COPING 

The  coping  may  be  of  good  hard  brick  laid  on  edge,  or  on  what 
isf called  row-lock  fashion;  this  is  much  to  be  preferred  to  the  cut 
limestone  or  cement  coping. 

The  gray  sandstone  (Fig.  140)  to  be  had  in  the  vicinity  of  Phila- 
delphia is  an  excellent  stone  for  this  purpose,  using  either  dressed  or 
selected  flat  pieces,  laid  cjuarry  face,  uniform  thickness,  using  one 
through  cross  stone  alternately  with  two  pieces  showing  a  joint 
through  the  center. 

The  coping  or  curb  should  never  stand  more  than  four  inches 
above  the  surrounding  grade;  the  closer  the  coping  level  is  to  the 
garden  grade  the  more  pleasing  will  be  the  appearance. 

A  sod  edge  extending  to  the  pool  has  a  softness  and  a  natural 
appearance  which  have  much  to  commend  it.  When  a  sod  edge  is 
desired  the  side  walls  of  the  pool  should  be  beveled  back  to  give  as 
much  depth  as  possible  to  the  soil  around  the  edge  for  the  proper 
support  of  the  turf.  Under  some  conditions  boulders  around  the 
margin  are  pleasing,  particularly  when  the  position  is  somewhat 
shaded,  and  ferns  and  other  shade  enduring  plants  may  be  planted 
between  the  boulders. 


174 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


fiijiyiiij£fei^;cii&9^»atci<«l, 


THE  BIRD  BATH 

Fig.   138. — "  The  bird  bath  attracts  the  birds  to  the  confines  of  the  garden,   enlivening 

the  scene  by  the  touch  of  life,  color  and  song." — See  page  172 


ARCHITECTURAL   FEATURES  OF   THE   GARDEN 


175 


176 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDEXIXG 


GARDEN  POOL  WITH  WATER  LILIES 

Fig.  140. — •"  Pools  are  at  their  best  when  placed  in  the  center  of  the  garden  or  at  the  end 
of  a  vista  down  a  garden  walk  or  broad  turf  area." — See  pages   172,  173,  179 


(ft 


Ml  <4 
rt  "2 


.2   S_ 


H  a 


5  u 


nj  4-.    Q. 

E'g  S 


178 


PRACTICAL  LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 


WATER    SUPPLY   AND   DRAINAGE 

The  pool  should  be  connected  with  the  general  water  supply,  if 
practicable,  and  a  drain  provided  (Fig.  141)  so  that  the  pool  may 
easily  be  emptied,  cleaned  and  refilled.  The  most  economical  and 
practical  method  to  arrange  for  the  overflow  and  drainage  is  to 
have  a  standpipe  with  a  ground  beveled  end  to  fit  in  a  socket  set  at 
the  low  point  of  the  pool.  The  size  of  the  pipe  will  depend  on  the 
amount  of  water,  but,  for  ordinary  purposes,  a  one  and  one-half  inch 
pipe  is  sufficient  to  carry  off  the  overflow.  To  drain  the  pool  it  is 
only  necessary  to  remove  the  standpipe. 

Another  method  of  providing  for  the 
overflow  and  drainage  is  to  have  a  con- 
cealed standpipe  (Fig.  142)  built  into 
the  end  wall  of  the  pool.  When  the 
water  rises  to  the  top  of  the  standpipe 
at  A,  it  overflows.  To  drain,  the  stand- 
pipe  is  removed  through  a  concealed 
opening  at  B. 

Where  the  drain  is  controlled  by  a 
valve,  the  valve  should  be  set  in  a 
small  box  with  an  iron  cover  set  flush 
with  the  grade. 

From  a  point  immediately  outside 
the  walls  of  the  pool  the  water  may  be 
carried  off  by  a  three-inch  terra  cotta 
pipe. 

The  appearance  of  the  pool  will  be 
greatly  improved  by  placing  an  inch  of 
clean  pebbles  over  the  bottom. 


c-r  1  o^ 


Fig.  142. — Concealed  stand- 
pipe  for  garden  pool  overflow 
and  drainage. 


GARDEN   POOLS    WITH   FOUNTAIN   HEADb 

Oftentimes  garden  pools  are  placed  at  the  ends  of  the  gardens 
fed  from  a  fountain  head  placed  in  a  vertical  wall. 

The  construction  of  such  pools  should  be  similar  to  that  already 
outlined. 

The  vertical  wall  should  rise  above  the  wall  enclosing  the  garden 
to  emphasize  the  feature. 

Fountains  and  pools  so  located  should  be  provided  with  a  good 
background,  preferably  evergreens  of  a  dark  shade;  the  Red  Cedar 
and  similar  types  are  admirable  for  the  purpose. 


ARCHITECTURAL   FEATURES   OF    THE   GARDEN  179 

PLANTING    NEAR    GARDEN    POOLS 

The  planting  near  garden  pools  should  include  some  bright 
colored  flowering  plants  in  positions  where  they  will  reflect  all  the 
glory  of  their  color  on  the  surface  of  the  water,  for  the  pool  is  a 
delightful  outdoor  mirror,  reflecting  all  its  en\ironment  with  a  soft- 
ness that  is  most  charming. 

PLANTS    IN    THE    POOL 

The  garden  pool  is  not  complete,  nor  affording  one  of  its  greatest 
pleasures,  if  it  does  not  support  some  Water  Lilies  (Fig.  140). 

In  tightly  built  pools  it  is  necessary  to  plant  the  Lilies  in  tubs. 
A  very  economical  and  satisfactory  tub  may  be  provided  by  cutting 
in  two  an  old  vinegar  or  liquor  barrel. 

The  soil  for  the  proper  support  of  the  Lilies  should  consist  of 
a  good  loam  well  enriched  with  decomposed  cow  manure,  equal  to 
one-fifth  of  the  entire  bulk.  On  top  of  this  place  two  inches  of  bar 
sand.  The  tubs  should  be  set  to  a  depth  that  will  allow  about  six 
inches  of  water  over  the  soil. 

THE    PLANTS 

For  the  average  garden  pool  a  selection  from  the  many  \'arieties 
obtainable  of  hardy  and  tender  Nymph  asas  will  be  found  most 
satisfactory. 

These  may  be  planted  just  as  they  start  into  growth,  usually 
about  May  1  in  the  vicinity  of  Philadelphia;  at  that  time  all  danger 
of  frost  is  over  and  even  the  tender  kinds  may  be  safely  set  out. 

Only  sufficient  fresh  water  need  be  supplied  to  the  pool  to  provide 
for  that  lost  through  evaporation. 

The  Nelumbiums  are  very  handsome,  of  easy  culture  and  well 
suited  to  large  pools.  Other  good  aquatic  plants  are  the  Water 
Hyacinth,  Water  Snowflake,  Papyrus  or  Umbrella  Plant. 

The  hardy  varieties  may  be  left  in  the  pool  all  Winter;  but  they 
require  a  protection  of  leaves,  with  evergreen  boughs  or  boards  over 
them  to  keep  the  leaves  in  place. 

FISH 

It  is  well  to  stock  garden  pools  with  goldfish  to  destroy  mos- 
quito larvae,  and  to  add  the  requisite  touch  of  life  and  color. 

SWIMMING    POOLS 

The  loss  of  so  many  of  the  old-time  swimming  holes  has  developed 
a  demand  for  the  artificial  swimming  pool. 


180 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  143. — Swimming  pool  within  the  garden  area.     Gray  sandstone  coping  to  match  the 

walls  and  steps 


Such  pools  may  often  be  placed  within  the  garden  area  (Fig.  143). 

The  construction  should  be  the  same  as  that  outlined  for  smaller 
pools,  care  being  taken  to  waterproof  the  walls,  not  only  from  the 
standpoint  of  keeping  the  water  within  the  pool,  but  to  keep  the 
moisture  from  outside  from  seeping  through  and  discoloring  the 
walls.  The  swimming  pool  may  be  incorporated  in  the  flower  garden 
as  a  wading  pool  or  made  sufficiently  deep  at  one  end  to  allow  of 
diving,  running  from  two  to  three  feet  deep  at  one  end  to  from 
seven  to  eight  feet  deep  at  the  other. 

Swimming  pools  should  be  provided  with  a  ladder  to  assist  in 
leaving  the  pool  at  the  deep  end.  A  removable  ladder  is  best 
for  a  combination  garden  and  swimming  pool.  Rings  should  be 
supplied  at  intervals  along  the  edge  of  the  pool  and  a  rope  run 
through,  so  that  bathers  may  grasp  same  for  support  when  required. 

WATER   SUPPLY 

Should  the  water  supply  come  from  a  spring  or  stream  on  the 
premises  it  will  be  necessary  to  have  a  valve  or  plug  to  shut  ofif  the 
supply  at  the  intake.     When  using  water  from  a  stream  it  is  advis- 


ARCHITECTURAL    FEATURES   OF   THE   GARDEN  181 

able  to  have  a  forebay  set  at  one  side  and  the  pipe  run  from  that  to 
the  pool.  The  forebay  or  well  is  built  along  the  stream  to  prevent 
leaves,  sand  and  debris  from  getting  into  the  pipe.  This  is  essential, 
regardlesss  as  to  what  method  is  adopted  for  conveying  the  water 
to  the  pool,  either  by  gravity,  ram,  gas  engine,  electric  pump  or 
gasoline  engine. 

As  swimming  pools  must  be  emptied  frequently  in  order  to 
cleanse  them,  a  small  electric  pump  may  be  introduced,  where  the 
power  is  at  hand,  and  the  water  from  the  pool  connected  to  the 
garden  pipe  line  and  so  used  for  watering,  thus  conserving  the 
general  supply. 

GARDEN    SEATS 

The  value  of  the  seat  as  a  garden  feature  has  long  been  recog- 
nized. A  seat  affords  a  comfortable  and  delightful  resting  place 
to  those  who  would  walk  or  work  within  the  garden. 

Seats  should  be  placed  on  the  axis  of  walks,  in  niches  formed  by 
planting,  or  in  the  enclosing  garden  wall  (Fig.  144)  or  hedge,  and 
roofed  over  if  only  in  the  most  fragile  way. 

Where  practicable,  seats  should  be  placed  where  they  will  com- 
mand a  good  view  of  the  garden  (Fig.  145)  or  of  some  portion  of  the 
garden  or  its  surroundings. 

A  novel  seat  (Fig.  146)  is  sometimes  built  on  the  axis  of  inter- 
secting walks,  consisting  of  two  walls  seven  feet  high,  built  in  the 
shape  of  a  cross,  with  the  seats  placed  in  each  corner  formed  by  the 
walls.  With  such  a  resting  place  one  may  always  select  a  retreat 
sheltered  from  sun  or  wind,  as  desired,  regardless  of  time  of  day  or 
the  quarter  in  which  the  wind  happens  to  be. 

For  greatest  comfort  wooden  seats  are  best.  They  may  be  had 
in  great  variety  and  to  suit  any  taste  or  need. 

Stone  or  artificial  stone  seats  are  more  ornamental,  but  for  real 
use  are  not  as  practical  as  those  of  wood.  Stone  seats  should 
have  a  stone  or  concrete  foundation,  otherwise  they  will  soon  get 
out  of  level. 

When  purchasing  artificial  stone  seats  it  is  advisable  to  select 
those  of  simple  design  rather  than  those  overlaid  with  ornament. 

GARDEN    HOUSES 

The  location  and  placing  of  garden  houses  and  pergolas  should 
always  be  considered  when  planning  the  garden  and  not  as  an  after 
consideration. 


182 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  144.-WELL  PLACED  GARDEN  SEAT  WITH  COVERING 
See  page  181 


ARCHITECTURAL    FEATURES   OF   THE   GARDEN  183 


184 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  146.— A  unique  design  for  a  sheltered  garden  seat  to  be  placed  on  the  axis  of  walks  or 

in  an  isolated  position  commanding  a  pleasing  vista.     It  is  always  possible  to  find  a  section 

sheltered  from  sun  or  wind. — See  page  181 


Although  space  is  not  usually  available  in  a  small  garden  for 
a  garden  or  tea  house,  yet  quite  often  a  space  can  be  found  sufficient 
to  make  a  little  break  outside  the  line; here  it  may  be  set  in  a  niche, 
thus  providing  ease  of  access  and  possibly  greater  seclusion. 

It  is  essential  that  such  features  be  placed  on  the  most  dominant 
axis  of  the  garden,  as  a  terminal  feature,  or  at  one  corner  with  a 
balancing  feature  in  the  opposite  corner.  In  this  location  a  covered 
house  is  more  desirable  and  affords  more  protection.  In  open 
topped  houses  of  pergola  construction  twigs  and  leaves  are  constantly 
falling  from  the  overhanging  vines  so  that,  where  it  is  desired  to 
serve  tea  occasionally  in  the  garden  house,  the  closed  top  construc- 
tion is  preferable. 

If  the  garden  adjoins  the  residence  the  garden  house  should  be 
built  to  conform  with  the  architecture  of  the  house;  if  isolated  from 
the  house  the  design  may  be  one  that  will  suit  the  individual  taste 
and  requirement  (Figs.  147  and  147A).  The  rustic  house,  built  of 
Red  Cedar,  lends  itself  to  the  greatest  diversity. 

Garden  houses  with  but  one  open  side  should  have  a  southern 
exposure,  pre-eminently  when  there  is  a  pretty  outlook  in  that  direc- 
tion. Such  a  house  will  be  found  a  delightful  retreat  m  Autumn, 
where  one  may  be  sheltered  from  the  cold  winds  and  enjoy  the  view 
under  most  delightful  conditions. 

The  floor  of  the  garden  house  should  be  of  enduring  material, 


ARCHITECTURAL    FEATURES   OF   THE    GARDEN  185 


186 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


L-  e^  V  /\rr  i  o  y-i 


m=m 


m 


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n 

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~\ 

p 

v-> 

-r 

c: 

M 

T 

I 

L. 

E- 



Plan  and  elevation  for  Fig.  147. — See  pages  184,  185 


such  as  flagstone,  slate,  brick,  or  tile;  and,  for  permanency  of  con- 
struction, should  be  set  on  a  concrete  base  four  inches  deep  with  a 
sub-base  of  stone  or  cinders.  An  inch  of  bar  sand  should  be  placed 
over  the  concrete  as  a  cushion. 

The  old  Dutch  tile  size,  eight  inches  by  eight  inches  by  two 
inches,  with  a  brick  texture,  makes  a  very  satisfactory  floor  with  a 
border  of  brick  on  the  outside. 

Garden  houses  should  be  set  close  to  the  ground  and  should  not 
be  more  than  twelve  inches  above  the  garden  grade.  A  six-inch 
elevation,  requiring  a  single  step,  is  most  hospitable  in  appearance. 


Fig.    147A.  — Plan  for  a  garden  house,  shingle  or  tile  roof.     Woodwork  of  aged  Oak.  oil 
finish  and  flooring  of   flat  stones.— See  page  184 


188  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 

PERGOLAS 

Garden  houses  of  closed  top  construction  are  preferable  to 
those  of  the  pergola  style  within  the  garden.  Pergolas  used 
in  the  garden  should  be  treated  as  terminal  features  (Fig.  148)  or 
as  covering  walks  leading  to  substantial  terminals.  Then  the  lights 
and  shadows  from  the  overhead  construction  (Fig.  149),  with  its 
covering  of  Roses  and  vines,  is  very  delightful. 

Pergolas  may  be  of  wood,  brick,  stone  or  concrete  construction, 
depending  largely  on  the  style  of  the  garden  enclosures,  architecture 
of  the  house,  and  the  design  and  general  surroundings  of  the  garden. 

Pergolas  built  of  wood  may  be  of  a  rustic  nature,  using  wood 
with  the  bark  on,  or  constructed  of  planed  wood,  stained  or  painted. 

For  pergolas  of  a  rustic  nature  Red  Cedar  is  the  best  material 
to  use.  For  those  constructed  with  planed  wood.  White  Pine  or 
Cypress  are  best.  The  high  cost  of  White  Pine  makes  it  almost 
prohibitive.  California  Red  Wood  and  Douglas  Spruce  are  suitable 
for  this  purpose.  The  cost  of  these  latter  two  is  more  moderate 
than  that  of  either  Cypress  or  Pine. 

If  the  columns  are  of  wood  they  should  be  set  in  concrete  (Fig. 
150),  first  coating  the  wood  that  is  imbedded  in  the  concrete  with  a 
tar  paint.  If  the  posts  are  set  in  the  ground,  that  part  in  the  earth 
should  always  be  coated  with  tar. 

If  rustic  posts  are  used  the  bark  should  be  stripped  from  their 
lower  portions  before  placing  them   in  the  ground. 

When  setting  posts  in  concrete,  allow  the  concrete  to  come  a  little 
above  grade  (Fig.  150)  with  the  top  beveled  so  that  the  water  can 
not  seep  down  between  it  and  the  post. 

Treat  logs  with  kerosene,  to  preserve  the  bark  and  protect  it 
against  the  ravages  of  borers,  which  tunnel  under  the  bark  and  soon 
loosen  it. 

Pieces  selected  for  the  uprights  should  not  be  less  than  eight 
inches  at  the  base,  preferably  twelve.  Clearance  space  under  the 
cross  pieces  should  not  be  less  than  eight  feet  and  the  breadth  from 
center  to  center  of  posts  for  this  height,  assuming  a  twelve-inch 
column,  should  be  eight  feet  two  inches,  making  the  clearance 
between  posts  seven  feet  two  inches,  just  ten  inches  less  than  the 
height. 

Always  avoid  making  the  width  greater  than  the  height;  for  good 
proportion  the  reverse  is  always  better. 


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zinnnnnnnna: 
Dnnnnnnnnnr 
DDnnnnnnna 

nnnuDDnnL 


nnnnnnnnn 


'E^f^^      C^^^^fS-d 


BSSICV^- 


Fig.  148. — Plan  for  a  pergola  as  a 
terminal  feature,  situated  at  the 
corner  of  the  garden  outside  of  the 
enclosing  hedge,  the  two  end  sections 
being  on  the  axis  of  the  boundary 
walk.— See  page  188 


190 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.   149. — The  lights  and  shadows    from    the    overhead    construction    of    the    pergola, 
with  its  covering  of  Roses  and  vines,  is  delightful. — See  page  188 


ARCHITECTURAL    FEATURES   OF   THE    GARDEN 


191 


If  turned  columns  are  used  their  height  should  be  eight  or  nine 
times  the  diameter  and  the  lintels  should  be  of  two  three-inch 
by  ten-inch  pieces,  notched  over  the  cap.  The  rafters  (Fig.  151) 
should  be  three  inches  by  eight  inches,  notched  over  the  lintels. 
For  the  better  support  of  vines,  additional  pieces  should  be  placed 
on  top  of  the  rafters,  running  at  right  angles  to  the  same.  These 
pieces  may  be  one  and  one-eighth  inches  by  two  and  three-quarter 
inches;  or  of  shingling  lath,  planed  down,  which  reduces  them  to 
about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  by  two  and  three-eighths  inches. 
The  rafters  (Figs.  151-153)  should  have  a  projection  of  from 
eighteen  inches  to  thirty  inches  and  should  be  cut  to  a  good  bold 
outline. 

The  caps  should  always  be  covered  with  light  sheet  lead  (Fig. 
151)  neatly  tacked  around  the  edge. 

When  stone  is  used  for  the  support  of  the  superstructure  the 
columns  or  piers  should  not  be  less  than  twenty-two  inches,  and 
these  should  stand  on  a  foundation  twenty-eight  inches  square, 
which  will  allow  of  a  three-inch  projection  all  the  way  around. 

The  stones  should  be  laid  up  in  cement  mortar  and,  where 
pointed,  the  pointing  should  conform  to  the  pointing  of  the  house, 
if  the  pergola  is  adjacent  thereto.  An  effective  method  of  laying  up 
the  stone  work  is  to  rake  out  the  mortar  joints  to  a  depth  of  two  to 
three  inches;  this  will  give  a  deep  shadow  and  form  a  friendly  sup- 
porting ledge  for  the  vines. 
Cap  stones  should  be  of  the 
">"  same  stone  as  that  used  in  the 

piers,  flat  and.  hammer  dressed, 
without  projection,  and  set  flush 
with  the  stone  work  below.     It 


I. 

0 

0 

r 


!%jW 


^'.    •ikX^or'fcol^    P^       ^^f+^V^ 


CTon 


cr<fMS" 


'-h- 


Fig.    150. — Detail    for    construction 
wooden  columns  on  cement  base. 
See  page  188 


Fig 


151. — Detail    for    construction 
rafters  on  wooden  columns. 
See  note  above 


192 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


ARCHITECTURAL    FEATURES   OF    THE    GARDEN 


193 


L,r,4-i< 


e-  (p-jo 


Or^ickL 


Fig.  153. — Detail  for  construction  of  raf- 
ters on  brick  piers.     Note  the  stone  cap. 
See  also  page  191 


is  not  necessary  that  the  cap 
be  all  one  piece;  when  con- 
structed of  two  or  more  pieces 
the  joints  should  be  pointed. 

It  is  essential  to  build  an- 
chor bolts  in  the  top  of  the 
columns  (Fig.  152)  to  secure 
the  lintels.  These  bolts  should 
have  a  four-inch  flat  iron  plate 
on  the  bottom  to  pre\-ent  the 
bolt  from  being  pulled  out  of 
place  when  tightening  the  nut  at  the  top. 

Piers  or  columns  constructed  of  brick  should  be  of  the  dark 
shades;  Harvard,  Sayre  and  Fisher,  or  tapestry  brick,  are  all  suit- 
able kinds.  They  may  be  laid  up  with  either  a  broad  mortar  joint 
or  reveal  joints,  raking  out  the  mortar  for  a  depth  of  two  to  three 
inches.  Brick  piers  are  improved  by  having  a  base  and  cap 
(Fig.  153)  either  of  cut  stone  or  of  brick  laid  on  end  with  a  quarter- 
inch  projection  at  the  bottom  and  edgewise,  set  flush  with  the  sides 
of  the  piers  at  the  top. 

There  are  times  when  light  brick  must  be  used  to  conform  with 
the  house;  but  light  bricks  are  anemic  looking  for  pergolas  and  should 
be  used  only  when  unavoidable. 

Stucco  columns  (Fig.  154)  may  be  built  on  tile,  as  it  is  substantial 
and  economical.  Stucco  piers  should  be  built  on  a  foundation  of 
stone  or  concrete  projecting  beyond  the  line  of  the  tile.  Twelve- 
inch  tile  is  about  the  minimum  size  to  use,  as  it  is  difficult  to  hold  a 
smaller  size  plumb  when  building. 


FLOORS 

Pergola  floors  should  be  built  with  a  view  to  permanency.  The 
foundation  should  consist  of  eight  or  twelve  inches  of  clean  cinders 
wet  and  thoroughly  compacted,  or  of  equal  depth  of  crushed  stone 
on  which  should  be  laid  a  concrete  slab  four  inches  thick,  composed 
of  one  part  Portland  cement  to  two  of  sharp  sand  and  five  of  crushed 
one  and  one-half  inch  stone,  thoroughly  tamped.  On  this  place  a 
cushion  of  one-inch  bar  sand.  Such  a  foundation  should  be  provided 
for  brick,  slate,  cement  or  stone  paving.  If  concrete  is  not  used  in 
the  foundations  the  cinders  are  best  with  the  sand  cushion  placed 


194  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   CARDENING 

directly  on  top  of  them.  All  paving  should  have  a  slight  fall;  an 
eighth  or  a  quarter  of  an  inch  to  the  foot  is  sufficient.  This  will 
prevent  surface  water  from  collecting. 

If  brick,  stone  or  slate  is  used  for  paving  the  joints  should  be 
pointed  with  a  cement  mortar  to  prevent  grass  and  weeds  growing 
in  the  interstices.  It  is  seldom  practical  to  successfully  grow  turf 
under  pergolas,  as  the  shade  from  the  overhanging  vines  becomes 
too  dense.  On  open  terraces  such  a  treatment  is  satisfactory  and 
picturesque. 

The  cement  finished  floor  is  the  least  desirable  of  all.  It  has  a 
harsh,  mechanical  finish  which  does  not  fit  in  with  soft,  responsi\'e  sur- 
roundings of  the  garden.  If  cement  is  used  much  of  the  glare  may 
be  reduced  and  the  texture  improved  by  tinting  it.  Lamp  black  and 
the  red  mortar  stains  are  used  for  the  purpose.  They  should  be 
applied  in  the  finish  coat,  and  that  rather  sparingly,  or  the  efficiency 
of  the  cement  will  be  much  impaired.  Cement  paving  should  have 
expansion  joints  cut  at  intervals  to  prevent  cracking.  A  cement 
surface  will  have  a  better  appearance  if  it  is  cut  up  into  small 
rectangular  blocks,  either  square  or  oblong  in  form. 

The  color  of  the  timber  superstructure  will  be  largely  influenced 
by  that  of  the  house;  when  adjacent  to  the  house  the  color  adopted 
should  conform  to  the  residence. 

White  may  always  be  used  with  safety  and  will  intensify  the 
shades  of  green  leafage  by  contrast.  There  are  various  shades  of 
brown  obtainable,  from  the  tint  resulting  from  the  use  of  creosote 
"  oil  grade  one "  to  the  almost  black  shade  of  Van  Dyke  brown. 
These  latter  colors  are  especially  attractve  in  combination  with  the 
brick  or  stone  substructure. 

COLOR    or    WOODEN    GARDEN   FEATURES 

The  color  of  wooden  garden  features  is  a  subject  well  worth 
considerable  thought.  White  paint  is  used  more  frequently  than 
any  other  and,  although  pleasing  to  the  eye  when  the  foliage  is  on 
the  plants,  it  is  most  glaring  and  cold  looking  in  the  Winter  season. 
Shades  of  green  are  good  but  do  not  afford  sufficient  contrast.  On 
the  whole,  shades  of  brown  and  weathered  oak  tints  wall  give  the 
greatest  satisfaction. 


ARCHITECTURAL   FEATURES   OF   THE   GARDEN 


195 


196 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


HARDY    BORDERS   AND    ROSE   GARDENS  197 


CHAPTER  IX 


HARDY  BORDERS  AND  ROSE  GARDENS 

PERENNIAL   BORDERS 

Of  the  many  ways  in  which  the  cultivation  of  flowers  is  under- 
taken none  is  so  popular  as  the  "  mixed  "  or  "  hardy  "  border  (Fig. 
155).  Such  borders  are  seen  on  nearly  every  property  and  occupy 
different  and  varied  positions.  They  may  be  planted  in  front  of 
shrubbery  belts  (Fig.  156),  in  the  kitchen  garden  (Fig.  159),  along 
sides  of  walks  (Fig.  165),  and  against  walls  and  buildings  (Fig.  157). 

LOCATION    or   HARDY   BORDERS 

It  is  to  be  regretted  that  hardy  borders  are  usually  placed  to 
the  rear  of  the  house.  Although  some  perennials  do  have  a  short 
season  of  bloom,  and  others  are  not  provided  with  pleasing  foliage, 
even  with  these  deficiencies,  if  the  selection  of  plants  be  carefully 
made,  borders  may  be  so  planted  that  they  will  be  attractive  all 
through  the  season.  On  small  places  particularly,  the  flowers  should 
be  in  the  front,  much  as  they  are  in  the  cottage  gardens  of  England, 
where  borders  along  walks  and  fences  are  so  attractively  treated. 
In  these  plantings  it  is  obvious  that  the  floral  arrangement  is  given 
preference  to  the  outline  of  the  beds  and  this  is  as  it  should  be. 
Irregular  beds  of  meaningless  outline  should  be  avoided  and  the 
simplest  forms  adopted. 

AVOID  BORDERS  NEXT  TO  A  HEDGE 

Perennial  borders  should  never  be  planted  against  a  hedge;  it 
is  preferable  to  leave  about  two  or  three  feet  between  the  hedge 
and  the  bed.  Many  plantings  are  ruined  after  the  first  year  or  two 
by  the  roots  of  hedge  plants  which  grow  apace  in  the  enriched  soil 
of  the  flower  borders. 

TURF   EDGE   FOR   BEDS 

When  borders  are  placed  along  walks  it  is  advisable  to  leave 
at  least  eighteen  inches  of  turf  (Fig.  166)  between  the  bed  and  the 
walk.     It  is  difficult  to  mow  and  trim  a  narrower  strip. 


198  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARUEXLXG 

BORDERS    ALONG    A   FENCE 

A  very  satisfactory  arrangement  of  beds  along  a  fence  (Fig.  158) 
is  to  have  a  narrow  bed,  say  two  feet  wide,  for  the  taller  growing 
varieties  right  against  the  fence,  then  a  turf  strip,  two  and  one-half 
or  three  feet  between  this  and  a  larger  bed  on  the  lawn  side.  This 
will  afford  a  charming  vista  and  give  more  variety  to  the  scene. 

BORDERS  IN  THE  VEGETABLE  GARDEN 

The  vegetable  garden  (Fig.  L59)  may  be  much  improved  by  the 
introduction  of  perennial  borders  along  the  walks  which  bisect  it 
and  also  along  the  outer  walks.  It  is  not  necessary  to  sacrifice,  to 
any  great  extent,  the  utilitarian  side  of  the  garden  for  this  esthetic 
feature,  as  the  beds  may  be  made  quite  narrow  (Fig.  160).  From 
four  to  five  feet  is  a  desirable  width  and  will  afiford  an  area  suscepti- 
ble of  very  pleasing  treatment.  It  is  well  to  give  character  to  bor- 
ders of  this  kind  by  planting  tall  flowering  shrubs  at  the  corners 
formed  by  the  intersection  of  the  walks  and  at  the  outside  corners. 

WIDTH    OF    BORDERS 

The  width  of  the  borders  will  vary  somewhat  according  to 
location.  In  the  open,  where  it  is  practical  to  reach  beds  from  both 
sides,  they  may  be  made  six  feet  wide.  In  positions  where  they 
can  only  be  reached  from  one  side  the  width  should  not  exceed  four 
feet;  three  feet  is  preferable. 

PREPARATION    OF   BEDS 

In  itself  the  word  "  hardy  "  is  suggestive  that  permanency  should 
be  the  first  consideration  in  the  planting  of  such  a  border,  so  that 
with  but  simple  care  the  plants  will  continue  for  years.  It  is  essen- 
tial, therefore,  that  thorough  preparation  of  the  soil  be  made  before 
planting.  Two  feet  of  good  soil,  well  enriched  with  plant  food, 
should  be  provided  for  borders.  Well  rotted  manure,  finely  ground 
bone  and  well  pulverized  sheep  manure,  in  equal  parts  by  weight, 
are  good  fertilizers  for  perennials. 

TIME    TO    PLANT 

Very  early  Spring,  just  as  the  plants  are  starting  into  growth, 
is  the  most  favorable  season  for  planting  the  majority  of  perennials. 
Do  not  plant  in  wet  soil;  it  is  better  to  wait  until  the  ground  is 
fairly  dry.  In  some  localities  the  Spring  season  is  very  short  and 
uncertain;  this  may  call  for  planting  to  be  done  in  the  Fall.     Plants 


HARDY    BORDERS   AND    ROSE   GARDENS 


199 


Fig.    156. — Hardy   Phlox   in  a   border   planting  in  Iront  of  shrubbery.— See  page  197 


Fig.  157.— Hardy  Chrysanthemums  in  a  border  along  a  wall. — See  page  197 


200 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  158.— Plan  for 
perennial  borders 
along  a  fence  and  at 
the  corner  of  a  lawn.       ^j         ^  ^^  ^^^,^^        f3<=.f5,Dr- 

In  the  bed  along  the       WjJ  L___ 

fence     plant     high 

growing   perennials   and    the   lower   growing  kinds  in  the  outer   bed. 
— See  page  198 

moved  in  the  Fall  should  be  well  protected  by  a  mulch 
so  that  the  frost  will  not  lift  them  out. 

SUMMER   CARE  ^" 

Summer  care  of  perennials  will  consist  principally 
of  frequent  cultivation  so  as  to  allow  a  full  circulation  of  air  and  to 
keep  down  the  weeds.  Tall  growing  plants  should  be  staked  so  that 
the  borders  will  present  a  neat  appearance.  Staking  should  be  done 
as  the  plants  grow,  and  not  at  the  last  moment  when  the  weight  of 
foliage  and  flowers  has  made  it  impossible  to  give  proper  support. 

To  get  the  best  result  with  hardy  borders  they  should  be  gone 
over  every  year  so  that  some  of  the  very  rampant  plants,  such  as 
Coreopsis,  can  be  kept  in  check.  It  is  usually  the  late  blooming 
varieties  which  need  more  frequent  division  and  transplanting. 
Spring  blooming  plants  flower  mostly  from  root  crowns  or  buds 
perfected  the  preceding  year;  the  Fall  blooming  plants  from  the 
numerous  new  stems  produced  during  the  growing  season.  Some 
of  the  strong  growing  Fall  bloomers  lose  the  original  crown  every 
year,  leaving  many  side  shoots  which  spread  rapidly  through  the 
borders.  Plants  of  this  type  should  be  dug  up  and  replanted,  setting 
back  just  a  few  of  the  strongest  roots.  This  will  insure  larger  and 
better  blossoms  and  more  kindly  consideration  of  neighboring  plants. 

ARRANGEMENT    OF   PLANTS   IN   HARDY   BORDERS 

The  arrangement  of  plants  in  the  hardy  border  (Fig.  161)  should 
be  with  a  view  to  color  effect  and  sequence  of  bloom.  The  beds 
should  be  interesting  from  early  Spring  to  late  Fall.  The  most 
difficult  plants  to  handle  successfully  with  a  view  to  good  color  effect 
are  those  with  magenta  and  mauve  shades.  It  is  safe  to  separate 
these  from  conflicting  shades  with  white  and  pale  yellow.  The 
white  must  be  used  sparingly,  however,  as  it  is  the  most  conspicuous 
color  in  the  combination.  The  scarlet  shades  are  the  high  lights 
in  the  garden  and  we  cannot  place  magentas  or  blues  too  close  to 
the  scarlets  with  satisfactory  results.  It  is  better  to  pass  from 
orange  and  yellow  to  blue. 


HARDY    BORDERS   AND    ROSE   GARDENS 


201 


:^'? 


i? 


202 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


pPilMWWIIllidlJliI'lJilMlliPM^^ 


Fig.    160. — Showing   an   arrangement   of   perennial    borders     surrounding    a     vegetable 

garden. — See  page  198 


HARDY   BORDERS   AND    ROSE   GARDENS 


203 


204  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

To  get  a  good  color  scheme  and  sequence  of  bloom  it  is  well  to 
make  a  plan  of  the  beds  first  and  figure  out  the  spaces  and  the 
quantities,  such  as  has  been  done  on  the  plans  illustrated.  To 
facilitate  this  work  a  list  of  plants  to  be  used,  arranged  according 
to  season  of  bloom,  height  and  color,  will  be  of  great  help. 

BORDER  BEDS  SHOULD  NOT  BE  GRADUATED  EVENLY  AS  TO  HEIGHT 

It  is  a  mistake  to  plant  all  the  rear  row  with  tall  plants, 
the  middle  rows  with  medium  growing  ones,  and  the  border  with 
low  varieties.  More  consideration  should  be  given  to  the  profile 
or,  as  the  artist  would  say,  the  "  sky  line."  To  obtain  the  most 
pleasing  effects  with  perennials  plant  so  that  the  taller  varieties 
(Fig.  162)  will  stand  out  boldly  and  not  be  held  up  on  both  sides 
by  some  other  tall  kind.  Set  off  the  Larkspurs  (Fig.  162),  Holly- 
hocks (Fig.  163),  or  Foxgloves  by  some  lower  growing  kind  next  to 
them,  and  show  the  medium  growing  varieties  to  better  advantage 
by  introducing  tall  kinds  for  contrast. 

BACKGROUND   FOR   BORDERS 

Where  space  permits  of  long  borders  of  good  width  the  question 
of  a  suitable  background  (Fig.  164)  should  not  be  entirely  over- 
looked. Good  supporting  growth  adds  greatly  to  the  charm  and 
attractiveness  of  perennial  plantings.  For  this  reason  it  is  well  to 
introduce  shrubs  or  evergreens  at  regular  intervals  in  borders  along 
walks.     These  will  strengthen  the  planting  and  add  to  the  character. 

ROSE    CHAINS   IN   PERENNIAL   BORDERS 

Another  pleasing  addition  to  the  perennial  border  is  the 
introduction  of  cedar  posts  at  intervals  of  from  ten  to  twelve  feet, 
through  which,  at  a  point  about  ten  inches  from  the  top  of  the  post, 
a  chain  of  one  and  one-half  inch  links  should  be  run.  Plant  a 
climbing  Rose  at  each  post,  to  form  a  pillar  of  green,  and  train  the 
leaders  along  the  chain  to  form  a  festoon. 

ARCHES    OVER   WALKS 

Rose  arches  (Fig.  165)  are  pleasing  to  tie  together  border  beds 
along  walks  and  increase  the  apparent  distance.  These  should  not 
be  planted  too  closely  together;  fifteen  to  twenty  feet  apart  is  the 
most  satisfactory  distance. 

PLANTING   IN   CLUMPS 

It  is  not  advisable  to  dot  single  plants  of  favorite  varieties  all 
through  the  borders.     Rather,  have  some  good  clumps   (Fig.   166) 


HARDY    BORDERS   AND    ROSE   GARDENS  205 

at  one,  two,  or  several  places  in  the  bed.  Too  much  stress  cannot 
be  laid  on  this  point.  Keep  varieties  together;  do  not  scatter  them 
too  much.  The  effect  is  better;  it  helps  greatly  in  the  care  of  the 
beds,  and  allows  of  keeping  in  much  closer  touch  with  individuals. 
The  size  of  the  clumps  will  depend  greatly  on  the  area  of  the  borders 
and  the  location.  Care  should  be  taken  not  to  plant  large  clumps 
of  varieties  which  have  a  very  limited  blooming  season,  such  as  the 
Oriental  Poppy,  or  kinds  with  poor  foliage,  such  as  Anthemis  tinc- 
toria.  Frequent  small  clumps  of  such  kinds  are  better  with  Gladioli 
planted  among  them  for  later  bloom. 

BULBS    AND    TUBERS 

Greater  use  should  be  made  of  bulbs  and  tubers  in  the  hardy 
borders.  They  are  inexpensive  and  should  otherwise  be  considered 
from  the  standpoint  of  ease  of  culture,  color,  and  succession  of 
bloom.  It  is  possible,  by  a  careful  selection,  to  secure  a  sequence  of 
bloom  lasting  through  the  entire  season. 

Bulbs  and  tubers  may  be  generally  divided  into  two  classes; 
those  known  as  hardy  bulbs,  such  as  Daffodils  and  Crocuses,  which 
may  be  allowed  to  remain  in  the  border  from  season  to  season;  and 
tender  bulbs,  such  as  Gladioli  and  Dahlias,  which  must  be  lifted  and 
wintered  under  cover.  These  classes  may  again  be  divided  into 
Spring,  Summer  and  Fall  blooming  kinds. 

SPRING   BULBS 

Of  the  Spring  kinds  nearly  all  are  suitable  for  garden  culture. 
Among  the  first  to  bloom,  usually  as  early  as  February,  we  have 
Winter  Aconite  {Eranthis  hyemalis),  Snowdrops  and  Crocuses, 
followed  by  Daffodils,  early  and  late  Tulips  and  Hyacinths. 

The  late  blooming  Tulips,  such  as  the  Darwins,  Cottage  and 
Parrot  tj^es,  deserve  more  general  recognition  in  our  garden  beds. 
They  afford  magnificent  coloring  and  have  good  long  stems,  making 
them  suitable  for  use  as  cut  flowers. 

SUMMER  FLOWERING  BULBS 

Of  the  Summer  flowering  bulbs  and  tubers  the  Gladiolus  and 
Dahlia  are  the  best  known. 

Gladioli  may  be  had  in  very  choice  colors  and  are  unexcelled  for 
planting  among  Peonies  and  other  herbaceous  plants  with  heavy 
foliage   and  but  a  very   short  blooming   season.     Gladioli   may  be 


206 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


HARDY  BORDERS  AND  ROSE  GARDENS 


207 


Fig.  163.— Hollyhocks  in  a  border  planting. — See  page  2U4 


208 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENLN'G 


Fig.  164. — This  early  flowering  border  of   Iris,  Peonies,  Foxgloves  and  English    Daisies 

illustrates  the  advantages  of  a  background.     The  Funkia    cordifolia,  as  a  center  feature 

at  the  corner,  is  well  placed. — See  page  204 


HARDY    BORDERS   AND    ROSE   GARDENS 


209 


210  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

planted  weekly  from  May  to  July,  and  will  afford  a  succession  of 
bloom  through  the  Summer. 

Dahlias  given  but  ordinary  treatment  in  the  garden  will  repay 
one  with  a  wealth  of  bloom  in  the  late  Summer  and  Fall  months. 
Varieties  may  be  had  in  many  forms  and  colors  to  suit  the  individual 
taste.  Plant  young  plants  in  preference  to  tubers  and  give  them 
an  open,  sunny  position.  The  plants  should  be  kept  upright  and 
tidy  by  the  use  of  supports. 

Tuberous  rooted  Begonias  may  be  introduced  into  the  shaded 
portions  of  the  garden  and  will  afford  a  variety  of  gay  colors  in  large 
and  beautiful  flowers.  They  are  more  effective  when  planted  together 
in  a  bed  rather  than  scattered  through  the  garden.  Better  treat- 
ment can  be  afforded  them  in  this  way  as  they  need  a  light  but  rich 
soil  for  the  best  results.  The  tubers  should  be  started  indoors 
to  ensure  early  bloom. 

The  Summer  Hyacinth  {Hyacinthus  candicans)  is  a  splendid 
Summer  flowering  bulb  to  scatter  through  the  borders  in  clumps  of 
five  or  more.  The  bell-shaped  flowers  appear  on  long  stems,  three 
to  five  feet  high;   there  are  as  many  as  thirty  flowers  on  a  stem. 

Many  of  the  Lilies  are  hardy  and  may  be  successfully  introduced 
into  the  borders.  Groups  of  L.  auratum  (the  gold-banded  Lily  of 
Japan);  L.  elegans,  a  lovely,  upright,  orange-colored  type;  L. 
speciosum,  a  Japanese  variety,  and  L.  tigrinum,  the  old-fashioned 
Tiger  Lily,  are  the  best  for  border  use. 

The  Tuberose  is  an  old-fashioned  favorite,  rather  stiff,  it  is  true, 
but  very  fragrant  and  beautiful.  By  careful  management,  starting 
to  plant  as  soon  as  the  conditions  are  favorable  in  the  Spring  and 
continuing  until  July,  a  succession  of  bloom  may  be  had  all  Summer. 

The  Eremurus,  or  Giant  Asphodel,  might  well  be  classed  among 
Summer  flowering  bulbs,  as  it  has  a  stout,  fleshy  root  with  a  central 
crown  from  which  the  rootlets  radiate.  Well  drained  land  and 
plenty  of  plant  food  are  requisites.  The  flowers  come  on  tall  stalks 
sometimes  eight  to  ten  feet  high.  The  flowers  form  on  the  upper 
part  of  the  stalk  and  continue  to  form  as  the  stem  lengthens.  Ere- 
murus needs  considerable  room  in  the  border,  so  should  only  be  used 
where  extensive  space  is  to  be  had.  It  should  be  set  in  the 
Autumn,  planted  at  least  six  inches  deep. 

AUTUMN   BULBS 

Of  the  Autumn  flowering  bulbs,  Colchicum  autumnale,  the 
Meadow  Saffron  or  Autumn  Crocus,  is  perhaps  best  known.     The 


HARDY    BORDERS   AND    ROSE   GARDENS  211 

flowers  very  much  resemble  Crocuses.  The  bulbs  should  be  planted 
in  July  and  August,  in  clumps,  not  too  set  looking,  in  the  front  of 
the  borders.     They  may  be  had  in  white,  lilac  and  blue. 

The  Red  Hot  Poker  plant,  or  Tritoma,  may  be  classed  among 
the  Autumn  flowering  bulbous  plants  worthy  of  a  place  in  all  hardy 
borders.  The  orange,  coral  red  and  yellow  flowers  are  very  strik- 
ing. Some  of  the  newer  kinds  have  early,  free,  and  continuous 
blooming  qualities,  and  succeed  in  an  ordinary  garden  soil.  Tri- 
tomas  are  not  altogether  hardy  in  some  locations  and,  for  safety, 
should  be  lifted  in  the  Fall  and  wintered  under  cover,  buried  in 
sand  in  a  cool  cellar  or  shed. 

The  Montbretia  is  a  hardy  bulbous  plant  that  should  be  in  every 
flower  border.  The  flowers  are  brightly  colored,  mostly  orange 
red,  and  on  stems  from  two  to  three  feet  high.  They  should 
be  planted  in  an  open,  sunny  position.  Bulbs  may  be  set  in  the 
Autumn  or  very  early  Spring. 

ANNUALS   IN   THE   BORDERS 

Very  often  the  effect  of  perennial  beds  is  marred  by  allowing  too 
much  bare  soil  to  show,  particularly  along  the  edges.  This  may  be 
overcome  by  planting  cover  plants,  or  in  the  new  border  by  planting 
an  assortment  of  annuals.  As  hardy  cover  plants  the  Candytuft, 
Creeping  Phlox,  early  blue  Phlox,  Plumbago,  Rock  Cress,  and  many 
similar  varieties,  are  splendid.  Of  the  annuals  many  kinds  are 
suitable  for  border  planting;  among  the  best  are  Sweet  Sultan. 
Silene,  Coreopsis,  Larkspur,  Balsam,  Zinnia,  Dianthus,  Eschscholt- 
zia.  Aster,  Godetia,  Clarkia,  Snapdragon,  Calendula  and  Poppy. 
Annuals  are  very  easily  grown.  If  wanted  early,  the  seeds  should 
be  started  indoors  in  flats.  Many  kinds  may  be  quickly  and  easily 
grown  by  sowing  in  the  open  ground  when  danger  of  frost  is  over. 

Really,  the  material  for  hardy  beds  is  inexhaustible  and  a  selec- 
tion may  be  made  for  a  constant  succession  of  bloom  through  the 
entire  season.  If  they  are  planned  carefully,  remembering  that  it 
is  the  contents  of  the  beds  and  not  the  outline  that  is  attractive, 
and  with  the  idea  of  permanency  before  us,  such  borders  will  con- 
tinue for  years  with  but  little  care. 

ROSE  GARDENS 

Every  one  knows  how  satisfactory  the  Rose  is  for  outdoor 
decoration  and  for  cutting,  but  it  does  not  receive  all  the  considera- 


212 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  166. — Better  effects  may  be  secured  in  hardy  border  through    planting    in  clumps 

rather  than  scattering  single  plants  all  through  the  border.     Note  turf 

edge  between  walk  and  bed.— See  pages  197,  204 


HARDY   BORDERS   AND   ROSE   GARDENS  213 

tion  it  deserves  in  our  gardens.     No  garden  is  complete  without 
some  of  this  queen  among  flowers. 

ROSE    GARDEN   DESIGNS 

For  the  best  effect  Roses  should  be  planted  in  mass  and  in'  this 
way  they  can  be  shown  to  greater  advantage  in  a  garden  of  formal 
outline.  The  design  (Fig.  1()7)  may  vary  greatly,  depending  on 
the  garden  location,  individual  taste,  and  the  space  at  hand,  but 
the  beds  should  always  be  narrow  with  larger  turf  area.  Gardens 
built  on  several  levels  should  have  one  level  reserved  for  Roses  (Fig. 
136).  Gardens  built  all  on  the  same  level  should  have  the  Roses 
in  the  outside  beds  with  the  perennial  beds  toward  the  center. 

POSITION 

The  Rose  garden  should  be  on  high  ground  in  an  open  situation 
that  will  allow  an  abundance  of  sunshine  and  a  free  circulation  of 
air  (Fig.  168).  The  garden  should  not  be  too  close  to  large  trees, 
the  roots  of  which  extend  for  some  distance.  A  southeastern  expo- 
sure is  the  best. 

BEDS 

Experience  has  taught  us  that  Roses  thrive  best  in  narrow  beds 
not  more  than  twelve  inches  wide,  (though  up  to  three  feet  is  prac- 
tical,) with  a  turf  path  from  two  feet  six  inches  to  three  feet  wide 
between  each  bed  (Fig.  167).  The  plants  should  be  placed  from 
twenty-four  to  thirty  inches  apart.  It  is  a  great  mistake  to  plant 
Roses  too  far  apart,  a  good  average  distance  being  twenty-four 
inches. 

The  broad  turf  area  forms  a  pleasing  setting  for  the  Roses,  quite 
in  contrast  with  the  usual  broad  beds,  which  are  unsightly,  impractical 
for  the  proper  care  of  the  plants,  and  a  source  of  great  aggravation 
when  gathering  the  flowers. 

PREPARATION    OF   BEDS 

The  beds  should  be  very  carefully  prepared  if  the  best  results  are 
to  be  obtained.  This  is  even  more  important  than  a  good  selection 
of  varieties.  Roses  like  fertile,  well  drained  soil,  at  least  eighteen 
inches  deep.  If  the  soil  is  very  heavy,  affording  poor  drainage  to 
the  plants,  the  beds  should  be  dug  out  deep  and  crushed  stone  or 
cinders  placed  in  the  bottom  to  carry  off  the  excess.  Although 
Roses  should  be  in  well  drained  soil  they  do  not  thrive  vigorously 


214 


PRACTICAL 


LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


HARDY  BORDERS  AND  ROSE  GARDENS 


215 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig  167 

Fig.  167. — A  design  for  a  Rose  garden.     Narrow  beds  with  larger  turf  areas. 
See  pages  213,  216 


Kev 

No. 

Quan. 

Variety 

I 

8 

Spirsea  Thunbergii 

2 

8 

Rosa  rugosa 

3 

10 

Rosa  Baby  Rambler 

4 

8 

Ligustrum  lucidum 

5 

10 

Rosa  rugosa,  white 

6 

6 

Thuya  occidentalis  pyramidaHs 

7 

8 

Rosa  rugosa  Ferdinand  Myers 

8 

30 

Rosa  multiflora 

9 

8 

Juniperus  Schottii 

10 

12 

Rosa,  Harrison's  Yellow 

II 

8 

Rosa  rugosa  Mme.  Bruant 

12 

10 

Rosa  rugosa,  red 

13 

6 

Thuya  occidentalis  pyramidalis 

14 

8 

Ligustrum  lucidum 

15 

150 

Hybrid  tea  Roses 

Common  Name 
Snow  Garland 
Japanese  Rose 
Everblooraing  Dwarf  Rose 
Evergreen  Privet 
White  Japanese  Rose 
Pyramidal  Arborvitae 
Pink  Japanese  Rose 
White  Rose 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Yellow  Bush  Rose 
Double  White  Japanese  Rose 
Red  Japanese  Rose 
Pyramidal  Arborvitae 
Evergreen  Privet 
Everblooming  Roses 


216  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

in  very  light  soils.     A  good  loam,  well  enriched  with  cow  manure, 
will  produce  splendid  flowers. 

PLANTING   AND   CARE 

Fall  or  very  early  Spring  is  the  best  planting  season  for  dormant 
plants.  If  plants  started  in  pots  are  secured  they  may  be  set  any 
time  after  May  first.  The  plants  should  receive  frequent  cultiva- 
tion during  the  Summer.  An  abundance  of  water  will  help  greatly 
in  getting  best  results,  so  that,  if  possible,  water  should  be  piped 
to  the  Rose  garden  for  convenience.  Frequent  spraying  of  the 
foliage  with  water  is  an  aid  in  keeping  insect  pests  in  control.  Spray- 
ing should  be  done  in  the  morning,  so  that  the  foliage  will  be  dry 
by  night. 

If  the  plants  are  robust  and  healthy,  the  result  of  favorable  condi- 
tions, insect  pests  are  not  a  serious  menace. 

Green  fly  and  aphis  are  most  prevalent.  These  are  easily 
controlled  by  spraying  with  tobacco  water.  Leaf  eating  insects 
may  be  kept  under  control  by  occasional  sprayings  with  arsenate  of 
lead,  eight  ounces  to  five  gallons  of  water,  applied  to  the  under  side 
of  the  foliage.  For  mildew  apply  sulphate  of  potassium,  one-half 
ounce  to  one  gallon  of  water. 

The  proper  pruning  of  the  plants  will  depend  largely  on  the 
type.  The  two  principal  types  to  be  met  in  gardens  are  the  so-called 
hybrid  tea  or  everblooming  Roses,  and  the  hybrid  perpetuals  or 
June  Roses. 

Hybrid  tea  Roses  should  be  cut  back  severely;  the  strong  shoots 
should  be  cut  to  within  twelve  inches  of  the  ground  and  the  weak 
shoots  removed  entirely. 

Hybrid  perpetuals  or  June  Roses  are  much  stronger  growing. 
To  insure  the  best  individual  blooms  the  strong  shoots  should  be 
cut  back  within  a  foot  of  the  base.  A  less  severe  pruning  will  suf- 
fice where  quantity  of  bloom  is  desired. 

All  pruning  should  be  done  very  early  in  the  Spring. 

Roses  may  be  successfully  protected  from  severe  Winters  by 
a  mounding  of  soil  around  the  base.  The  entire  bed  should  have  a 
light  mulching  with  coarse  manure  or  straw.  Too  hea\y  a  mulch 
is  dangerous,  as  it  induces  growth  to  start  too  early  in  the  Spring. 

VARIETIES 

As  before  stated,  the  two  types  of  Roses  most  generally  used  in  the 
Rose  garden  are  the  hybrid  tea  Roses  and  the  hybrid  perpetual  Roses. 


HARDY   BORDERS  AND    ROSE   GARDENS 


217 


218 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.    loy.— Rose  arclies  clothed   with  hardy  climbing  Roses  may  often   be    successfully 
introduced  into  the  Rose  garden. — See  page  219 


HARDY   BORDERS  AND   ROSE   GARDENS  219 

The  hybrid  tea  Roses  are  popularly  known  as  monthly  or  ever- 
blooming  sorts.  They  are  most  satisfying  for  garden  purposes,  as 
they  are  usually  of  neat  habit  with  pleasing  foliage  and  fragrant 
flowers,  in  many  delicate  and  beautiful  colors.  There  are  so  many 
varieties  to  choose  from  now,  that  a  selection  must  depend  largely 
on  the  taste  of  the  individual.  For  the  guidance  of  those  unfamiliar 
with  such  plants  I  will  name  this  brief  selection  of  dependable  va- 
rieties^  General  MacArthur,  crimson  red;  Laurent  Carle,  carmine; 
Farben  Konigin,  pink;  Killarney,  pink;  Harry  Kirk,  a  yellow  tea 
Rose;  Lady  Hillingdon,  a  yellow  tea  Rose;  Kaiser  in  Augusta  Vic- 
toria, white. 

The  hybrid  perpetuals  or  June  Roses  make  a  splendid  showing 
in  June  when  the  plants  are  in  full  bloom.  After  that  they  have  but 
a  scattering  bloom  during  August  and  September.  A  few  of  the 
best  varieties  are  Frau  Karl  Druschki,  white;  General  Jacqueminot, 
crimson;  Ulrich  Brunner,  cherry  red;  Mrs.  R.  Sharman-Crawford, 
deep  pink;  Magna  Charta,  bright  pink. 

There  are  numerous  reliable  Rose  specialists  throughout  the 
country  from  whom  catalogues  should  be  obtained  and  varieties 
studied  out  in  order  that  a  satisfactory  selection  be  made. 

CLIMBING   ROSES 

Rose  arches  (Fig.  169)  and  Rose  chains  may  often  be  very 
successfully  introduced  into  the  Rose  garden.  These  should  be 
clothed  with  the  hardy  climbing  Roses,  of  which  there  is  a  large 
selection  to  choose  from.  Climbing  Roses  should  be  given  plenty 
of  space  so  that  they  may  freely  develop.  To  get  the  best 
results  with  climbers  the  question  of  pruning  is  very  important. 
The  plants  should  be  cut  back  just  as  soon  as  the  flowering  season 
has  passed,  cutting  out  the  old  flowering  shoots  and  leaving  the 
young  growth  to  develop.  June  and  July  are  the  months  when 
climbing  Roses  are  at  their  best,  and  the  floral  treatment  of  the 
garden  should  be  so  designed  that  this  wealth  of  bloom  and  color 
may  be  taken  advantage  of  to  the  fullest  extent.  These  varieties 
are  recommended:  Carmine  Pillar,  single  carmine  with  white 
center,  early;  Hiawatha,  ruby  carmine  with  white  center;  Crimson 
Rambler,  crimson  double;  Dorothy  Perkins,  double  pink;  Christine 
Wright,  double  pink;  Dr.  Van  Fleet,  flesh  pink;  Alberic  Barbier,  a 
double  pure  white;  Gloire  de  Dijon,  white  shaded  with  salmon, 
rather  tender;  Tausendschon,  semi-double  pink. 


220 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENLNG 


Fig.  170.^The  wild  garden  will  appear  best  in  a  depression  where  it  is  practicable  to 

plant  the  side    slopes  with  evergreens  and  flowering  shrubs  in  a 

naturalistic  way. — See  page  221 


WILD  GARDENS  AND  ROCK  GARDENS        221 


CHAPTER  X 


WILD   GARDENS 

The  wild  garden,  as  the  name  suggests,  is  a  garden  of  informal 
outline,  but  it  is  not,  as  many  think,  a  wilderness,  requiring  little 
or  no  attention.  The  primary  purpose  of  the  garden  is  flowers,  and 
if  success  is  to  be  looked  for  there  must  be  a  degree  of  care  and  regard 
bestowed  upon  it,  although  when  the  garden  is  once  established 
this  care  may  be  reduced  to  a  minimum. 

A  wild  garden  consists  of  a  collection  of  plants,  perennials  and 
shrubs,  placed  so  nearly  in  their  original  environment  that  they 
become  established  and  in  great  measure  take  care  of  themselves. 

Very  often  an  entire  property  is  developed  along  naturalistic 
lines,  aiming  toward  the  picturesque  in  landscape  design.  Such  a 
development  may  not  be  classed  as  a  wild  garden,  as  very  often  the 
effects  secured  are  the  result  of  almost  constant  care. 

THE    WILD    GARDEN    AS    AN   ISOLATED   FEATURE 

The  true  wild  garden  should  be  treated  as  an  isolated  feature 
and  will  appear  best  in  a  depression  (Fig.  170)  where  it  is  practicable 
to  plant  the  side  slopes  with  evergreens  and  flowering  shrubs  in  a 
naturalistic  way.  When  boulders  are  at  hand  it  may  be  made  even 
more  picturesque  by  placing  them  "on  the  slopes  and  extending  the 
plantations  of  wild  flowers  around  them  to  tie  the  entire  scene 
together. 

Where  space  admits  the  plot  given  over  to  the  wild  garden  should 
be  large  enough  to  allow  the  greatest  freedom  in  the  modification 
of  the  ground;  walks  should  lead  through  depressions,  the  slopes  of 
which  may  be  built  up  with  the  earth  excavated  from  them. 

Very  often  a  favorably  located  spring  will  supply  running  water 
and  add  a  feature  of  inestimable  worth  to  the  wild  garden.  Many 
and  varied  are  the  native  plants  that  can  then  be  introduced  and 
charming  indeed  the  efifects  procurable. 

The  wild  garden  should  be  so  designed  that  the  scenes  are  ever 
changing;     the   paths    should    follow    the    running    water,    through 


222  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE    GARDENING 

dense,  cool,  shaded  places,  where  ferns  and  mosses  thrive,  and  again 
through  open,  sunny,  meadow-like  spaces  where  Buttercups  and 
Daisies  abound. 

WALKS 

In  the  wild  garden  the  paths  should  be  of  turf  (Fig.  171)  or 
stepping  stones,  and  very  broad,  allowing  the  flowers  to  sprawl  over 
the  path  in  places  without  interfering  entirely  with  the  purpose  of 
the  walk.  Stepping  stones  should  be  placed  twenty  inches  apart, 
center  to  center. 

BEDS 

Beds  for  the  establishing  of  flowers  should  not  be  more  than 
six  feet  wide.  Where  it  is  necessary  to  have  them  of  greater  width, 
it  is  preferable  to  place  shrubbery  in  the  center  of  the  bed  and  to 
allow  about  three  feet  between  the  shrubbery  and  the  turf  edge  of 
the  path. 

PLANTING   IN   THE   WILD    GARDEN 

The  proper  planting  of  the  wild  garden  will  require  an  intimate 
knowledge  of  plants  and  a  fine  sense  of  fitness.  The  proper  plant- 
ing relates  not  only  to  the  colonies  of  the  smaller  flowers  that  border 
the  walks  and  the  edges  of  streams,  but  also  to  the  trees,  shrubs  and 
evergreens  needed  to  make  up  the  scene.  Trees  and  shrubs  should 
be  selected  which  will  supply  the  overhanging  branches  desired  in 
places  without  encroaching  on  the  open  meadow-like  sunny  spots. 

Many  plants,  such  as  the  Foxgloves  and  Cardinal  Flowers  that 
are  given  places  in  the  regular  .flower  garden,  are  equally  at  home 
in  the  wild  garden,  but  plants  such  as  Geraniums  and  Scarlet  Sage, 
which  are  peculiarly  garden  plants,  have  no  place  in  it. 

FLOWERS   IN   THE    WILD    GARDEN 

As  in  the  flower  garden,  the  aim  should  be  toward  continuity 
of  bloom.  There  should  be  no  lack  of  flowers  at  any  time,  although 
the  Spring  and  Fall  seasons  will  be  greatly  to  the  fore.  In  this  re- 
spect great  aid  may  be  looked  for  from  the  free  use  of  hardy  bulbs. 
Nothing  is  quite  so  pretty  as  colonies  of  Snowdrops,  Jonquils,  Daf- 
fodils, and  similar  bulbs,  thoroughly  naturalized. 

Splendid  color  effects  may  be  secured  by  very  simple  combina- 
tions of  plants  in  the  wild  garden.     These  may  be  copied  closely  from 


WILD  GARDENS  AND  ROCK  GARDENS 


223 


Fig.  171. — In  the  wild  garden  the  paths  should  be  of  turf  and  very  broad. — See  page  222 

nature,  or  be  the  result  of  individual  taste  in  colors  and  color  com- 
binations. 

ROCK    GARDENS 

GARDEN   LOCATIONS 

The  Alpine  or  rock  garden  is  closely  akin  to  the  wild  garden, 
as  here,  too,  we  endeavor  to  establish  plants  as  nearly  as  possible 
in  their  native  environment.  The  Rock  Garden  should  be  apart 
and  secluded  from  the  Flower  Garden.  If  it  is  possible  to  select  a 
place  where  there  is  running  water  it  will  greatly  enlarge  the  variety 
of  plants  that  may  be  grown  and  increase  the  possibilities. 


PLACING    OF   ROCKS 


The  rocks  should  be  placed  on  a  gentle  slope  and  the  surface  so 
varied  that  the  contour  will  be  undulating.  A  few  large  rocks  are 
better  than  many  small  ones.  When  placing  the  rocks  adopt  a 
plan  of  stratification  so  that  the  strata  all  run  in  the  same  direction. 
Secure  the  largest  boulders  possible  and  arrange  them  so  that  the 


224 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.  172. — A  dry  retaining  wall  with  pockets  for  plants,  where  the  water  feature  adds 
greatly  to  the  scene. — See  page  226 

most  formidable  stones  come  at  the  base.  In  some  places  the  ar- 
rangement should  be  almost  perpendicular  and  in  others  flattened 
out  to  a  more  gentle  slope.  In  this  class  of  work  we  are  imitating 
nature  just  as  closely  as  possible  and  the  boulders  must  be  so 
arranged  as  to  appear  inherent  in  the  soil. 

SOIL 

An  abundance  of  good  porous  soil  must  be  used  and  well  mixed 
with  leaf  mold  and  well  rotted  manure  to  a  depth  of  two  or  three 
feet.  It  is  almost  impossible  to  establish  and  grow  a  good  assort- 
ment of  rock  plants  on  many  of  the  so-called  rockeries  for  the  reason 
that  the  pockets  for  soil  are  far  too  small  and  devoid  of  moisture, 
so  that  only  the  very  hardiest  of  drought  resisting  Alpines  can 
exist. 


ARRANGEMENT    OF    PLANTS 


The  arrangement  of  the  plants  should  be  in  clumps  or  colonies 
of  one  variety,  and  not  of  a  mixed  planting  where  the  strongest  grow- 


WILD  GARDENS  AND  ROCK  GARDENS 


225 


iJRY  WALL  GARDENING 
Fig.  173. — In  dry  wall  construction  the  large  stones  should  be  placed  at  the  base,  and 
the  face  of  the  wall  battered  back  two  or  three  inches  to  the  foot.  Pockets  of  generous 
dimensions  should  be  provided  for  the  plants,  and  all  the  stones  should  have  an  inclina- 
tion toward  the  bank.  In  the  illustration  the  plants  consist  of  Armeria,  Phlox,  Dianthus, 
Aquilegia  and  Epimedium. — See  page  226 

ing  kinds  can  o\errun  the  weaker,  many  of  which  would  soon  perish 
under  these  conditions. 


MOISTURE    IMPORTANT 

When  a  rock  garden  is  constructed  on  a  dry  hill  it  should  be 
provided  with  a  sub-irrigation  system,  as  many  Alpine  plants  require 
a  deep,  moist  soil.  This  is  very  much  more  important  than  the 
shade  or  partial  shade  so  often  thought  necessary  to  their  well  doing. 
Such  a  system  of  irrigation  may  be  economically  installed  by  running 
a  two-inch  agricultural  tile  along  the  top  of  the  slope,  twelve  inches 
below  the  surface.  The  bottom  of  the  trench  should  be  inclined 
toward  the  rockery  and  filled  with  crushed  stone  or  clean  cinders, 
placed  around  the  tile.  The  tile  should  be  connected  with  a  rubber 
hose  at  the  faucet.     The  use  of  valves  is  thus  done  away  with,  such 


226 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDEXLNG 


ID      prTAiL  f^R  l)f^r  ^^-iMninq  wa.ll  to  5r  PLA/iirp 


'  ^^^-r 


Fig.    174. — Dry  stone  wall   with  pockd:s  for   planting.     Note  system  for    watering. 


as  would  be  necessary  if  the  line  was  directly  connected  with  the 
water  supply  system.  Where  the  rock  garden  is  close  enough  to 
the  house,  water  may  be  applied  directly  by  hose,  but  the  irrigation 
method  is  to  be  preferred. 

An  interesting  use  of  rock  and  Alpine  plants  is  in  the  planting  of 
dry  walls  (Figs.  172  and  173)  and  particularly  when  such  walls  are 
built  as  retaining  walls  in  the  flower  garden.  A  great  variety  of 
plants  may  be  had  for  such  a  purpose  and  the  list  greatly  enlarged 
if  a  water  supply  is  near  by  to  help  out  in  very  dry  periods. 

When  it  is  purposed  to  plant  the  interstices  in  dry  walls,  the 
walls  should  have  a  batter  (Fig.  174)  of  three  inches  to  the  foot,  or 
one  foot  in  a  wall  four  feet  high.  The  stones  should  be  set  at  a 
right  angle  to  the  inclined  line.  The  pockets  left  for  plants  should 
continue  directly  or  indirectly  through  the  wall  so  that  the  soil  will 
be  in  direct  contact  with  that  at  the  back  of  the  wall.  These  soil 
pockets  should  be  filled  as  the  wall  progresses  and  the  soil  held  in 
place  by  tough  pieces  of  sod  until  ready  for  planting. 

For  wall  gardens  it  is  advisable  to  install  a  sub-irrigation 
system     (Fig.     174)    to    supply    abundant    moisture    to    the    wall 


WILD  GARDENS  AND  ROCK  GARDENS 


227 


y-^'''  ^  ^^ 


•*i^ 


..  '■^v^  v> 


ANOTHER  FORM  OF  ALPINE  GARDENING 

Fig.  175. — Rustic  garden  steps  such  as  these  should  have  six-inch  risers  and  treads  of  not 

less  than  fourteen  inches.     The  larger  stones  should  be  used  for  the  base,  and  the  soil  well 

rammed  to  prevent  settling.     The  treads  should  be  tied  into  the  cheek  walls.     In  rustic 

work  the  cheek  walls  may  be  left  without  coping. 


plants;  this  may  be  done  by  installing  a  perforated  wrought 
iron  pipe  along  the  top  at  the  rear  of  the  wall;  the  perfora- 
tion should  be  a  thirty-second  of  an  inch  in  diameter,  spaced  at 
intervals  of  one  inch.  The  pipe  should  be  placed  with  the  holes  at 
the  bottom,  on  a  bed  of  crushed  stone,  seven  inches  below  the  sur- 
face, and  covered  with  three  inches  of  cinders,  allowing  four  inches 
of  top  soil  above.  The  water  supply  should  be  controlled  by  a 
valve  set  flush  with  the  grade,  in  a  neat  box,  and  located  at  a  con- 
venient point. 

GARDEN   STEPS   WITH  POCKETS   FOR   PLANTS 

Garden  steps  of  field  stone  (Fig.  175)  in  fashion  with  the 
retaining  walls  may  be  so  constructed  as  to  leave  pockets  for  the 
planting  of  Alpines.  Following  a  first  principle  of  wall  construc- 
tion, such  steps  should  be  as  regular  as  possible,  not  in  absolutely 
straight  lines,  but  the  structure  in  general  should  be  regular  and 
uniform.     This  regularity  should  not  be  followed  in  the  planting; 


228 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


Fig.   176. — Stone    steps    making    an    interesting   approach    to    the    rock    garden.     Large 

field   stones  form   the   treads   with  earth  risers.     Sedum  acre    (Wall   Pepper)  is   planted 

between  the  stones. — See  page  229 


WILD  GARDENS  AND  ROCK  GARDENS 


229 


-Small,  compact  growing  shrubs  are  introduced  into  a  rock  garden  not  only  for 
their  floral  beauty,  but  to  add  stability. — See  page  230 


on  the  contrary,  it  may  be  very  much  varied.  An  important  con- 
sideration in  the  building  of  such  steps  is  stability.  Large,  heavy 
stones  should  be  selected  for  the  base  and  placed  on  a  firm  founda- 
tion. As  the  other  stones  are  placed  they  should  all  lie  firmly  and 
the  soil  between  be  well  rammed  to  prevent  too  much  settling.  The 
planting  may  usually  be  done  as  the  work  is  in  progress;  the  plants 
will  then  be  better  placed,  the  roots  spread  more  easily.  The  pockets 
for  plants  should  be  so  made  as  to  prevent  the  crushing  of  the 
roots  as  the  work  progresses.  Plants  that  show  to  best  advantage 
on  a  flat  surface  should  be  given  the  preference,  but  in  not  too  great 
a  variety.  Plants  suitable  are  Rock  Cress  {Arabis  albida),  Wall 
Pepper  {Sediim  acre. — Fig.  170),  Bugle  {Ajuga  re  pens),  Harebell 
{Campanula  rohmdifolia),  Soapwort  {Saponaria  ocymoides)  and 
Speedwell  {Veronica  riipestris). 


TIME    OF    PLANTING 


Great  care  should  be  taken  in  planting  Alpines  or  many  failures 
will    result.     Late  Spring  is  the  very  best  season  for  planting  and 


230  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 

if  it  is  possible  to  secure  small  potted  plants  they  are  more  easily 
handled.  Planting  and  building  may  often  be  done  at  the  same 
time  and  this  is  advisable  where  possible. 

SHRUBS    IN   ROCK    GARDENS 

The  introduction  of  small,  compact  growing  shrubs  will  give  an 
appearance  of  stability  to  the  rockery  and  deter  the  eye  from  taking 
in  too  much  at  a  time.  Many  of  the  hardy  heaths  are  suitable  for 
this  purpose,  as  are  also  the  Andromedas,  Azaleas  (Fig.  177), 
Daphnes,  Dwarf  Rhododendrons  and  Cotoneasters. 

EVERGREENS  IN  THE  ROCK  GARDEN 

Coniferous  evergreens  should  be  used  sparingly  in  the  rock 
garden.  The  tall,  upright  types  are  not  in  keeping,  and  all  those 
with  golden  or  silvery  foliage  should  be  omitted.  Some  of  the  dwarf 
Junipers,  such  as  J.  tamariscifolia  and  J.  sabina  prostrata,  are  use- 
ful, as  are  the  dwarf  Spruces  such  as  Picea  Remonti,  and  the  dwarf 
Retinisporas  as  Retinispora  obtusa  nana. 

THE  HEATHERS 

The  hardy  heaths  bloom  from  April  until  July.  The  first  to  bloom 
is  Erica  mediterranea.  This  variety  makes  its  flower  buds  in  the 
Summer  and  blooms  the  following  April  and  May.  Other  hardy 
kinds  are  E.  Tetralix,  E.  cinerea,  E.  vagans,  E.  ciliaris  and  Calluna 
vulgaris. 

Used  in  the  rock  garden  the  heaths  should  be  planted  in  clumps 
rather  than  as  individual  plants.  A  rather  peaty  soil  should  be 
provided  and  the  plants  placed  close  together,  protecting  the  roots 
from   wind  and  undue  exposure. 


PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO  231 


CHAPTER  XI 


PLANTING   PLANS  AND   KEYS  THERETO 

The  plans  illustrated  on  the  following  pages  are  mostly  of 
properties  which  have  been  developed  as  planned  and,  though  they 
will  not  apply  to  other  plots  in  every  detail,  they  may  be  readily 
adjusted  to  conform  to  grounds  of  a  similar  size. 

The  garden  plans  may  be  easily  adopted  where  the  area  is  at 
hand  to  accommodate  them  and  the  enclosing  plantations;  the 
latter  is  essential,  for  the  garden  setting  has  much  to  do  with  its 
success  from  a  pictorial  point  of  view  as  well  as  from  the  privacy 
it  affords. 

When  modifying  the  plans  and  making  substitutions  to  suit 
one's  fancy  or  local  conditions,  it  will  save  much  time  and  annoy- 
ance to  first  make  a  list  of  the  plants  to  be  used,  noting  their 
ultimate  height  and  spread,  season  of  blooming,  and  the  color  of 
the  flower;  such  a  list  saves  much  confusion  in  looking  up  each 
variety  in  the  nursery  catalogues  when  making  the  plan. 

In  border  plantations  it  should  be  borne  in  mind  that  a  grouping 
of  shrubs  on  level  ground  should  never  exceed  more  than  three 
plants  in  depth  (placed  irregularly  and  not  in  straight  rows);  in 
a  limited  space  two  plants  deep  will  be  sufficient.  More  than  this 
quantity  will  give  a  monotonous,  flat  appearance.  On  slopes,  the 
dimensions  of  the  individual  groupings  are  only  limited  by  the 
space  or  the  fancy  of  the  designer. 

Most  of  the  shrubs  bloom  early  in  the  Spring  or  late  Summer, 
so  it  is  suggested  that  a  generous  quantity  of  perennials  be  included 
in  the  plantations;  these  latter  will  give  a  charming  sequence  of 
bloom  and  brighten  the  scene  throughout  the  season. 

For  the  best  results  in  plant  arrangement  it  is  essential  that 
we  have  some  preconceived  idea  as  to  the  placing  of  the  material 
of  which  the  scene  is  to  be  made;  after  the  conception  the  next 
step  is  to  develop  the  scheme  on  paper,  in  a  comprehensive  manner, 
drawn  to  an  accurate  scale,  so  that  it  may  readily  be  reproduced 
on  the  ground.  The  eraser  should  be  used  unsparingly,  for  it  is 
only  by  the  process  of  elimination  that  we  finally  realize  the  best. 


232 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN. -Fig.  173 


Key 
No.  Qua 


13 

3 

14 

3 

IS 

6 

i6 

5 

17 

5 

l8 

5 

19 

5 

20 

8 

21 

7 

22 

6 

2i 

5 

232 

6 

24 

I 

25 

8 

26 

9 

27 

5 

28 

9 

29 

8 

30 

9 

31 

9 

32 

2 

33, 

12 

34 

14 

35 

8 

36 

9 

37 

5 

38 

S 

39 

8 

40 

10 

41 

4 

42 

4 

43 

5 

44 

5 

45 

10 

46 

8 

47 

8 

48 

8 

49 

10 

SO 

10 

SI 

5 

52 

S 

53 

5 

54 

5 

55 

5 

S6 

57 

15 

S8 

7 

59 

IS 

60 

12 

61 

7 

62 

6 

63 

12 

64 

12 

6S 

12 

66 

4 

67 

7 

68 

5 

1.  Variety 

Rhodotypos  kerrioides 
Hibiscus  syriacus,  single  pink 
Spiraea  A.  Waterer 
Lonicera  fragrantissima 
Hydrangea  paniculata  (type) 
Spira-a  Thungergii 
Buddleia  Veitchiana 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora  alba 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Spira?a  A.  Waterer 
Yucca  filamentosa 
Acer  saccharum 
Mahonia  aquifolia 
Philadelphus  coronarius 
Jasminum  nudiflorum 
Desmodium  penduliflorum 
Rhodotypos  kerrioides 
Desmodium  japonicum 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Rhododendron  album  elegans 
Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Rhododendron  myrtifolium 
Rhododendron  John  Walter 
Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Forsythia  suspensa 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Lonicera  fragrantissima 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Forsythia  suspensa 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Spiraa  Thunbergii 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Spirsea  Van  Houttei 
Caryopteris  mastacanthus 
Syringa  Marie  Legraye 
Buddleia  Veitchiana 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 
Rhododendron  Hybrids 
Rhododendron  Hybrids 
Rhododendron  Hybrids 
Rhododendron  Hybrids 
Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 
Phlox  Rheinlander 
Hesperis  matronalis 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Aster  amellus,  Beauty  of  Ronsdorf 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Hydrangea  paniculata  (type) 
Exochorda  grandiflora 
Lonicera  fragrantissima 
Annuals  and  Bedding  Plants 
Juniperus  Schottii 
Desmodium  penduliflorum 
Phlox  Miss  Lingard 
Gaillardia  grandiflora 
Hypericum  aureum 
Deutzia  gracilis 
Chrysanthemum  St.  Illoria 
Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 
Phlox  Von  Lassburg 
Kerria  japonica,  single 
Rosa  rugosa 
Spiraa  Thunbergii 


Common  Name 
White  Kerria 
Rose  of  Sharon 
Dwarf  Pink  Spirsea 
Early   Fragrant   Honeysuckle 
Late  Hydrangea 
Snow  Garland 
Butterfly  Plant 
Hills  of  Snow 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Dwarf  Pink  Spiraea 
.Adam's  Needle 
Sugar  Maple 
Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Mock  Orange 
Yellow  Jasmine 
Bush  Clover 
White  Kerria 
White  Bush  Clover 
Hybrid  .Abelia 
White  Rhododendron 
Japanese  Evergreen  .Azalea 
Myrtle-leaved  Rhododendron 
Crimson  Rhododendron 
Pink  Rhododendron 
Blue  Cedar 
Hybrid  .Abelia 
Weeping  Golden  Bell 
Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Fragrant  Honeysuckle 
Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Drooping  Golden  Bell 
Hybrid  .Abelia 
Cannart's  Cedar 
Snow  Garland 
Regel's  Privet 
Dark  Red  Weigela 
Bridal  Wreath 
Blue  Spiraea 
Lilac 

Butterfly  Plant 
Large-flowered  Hydrangea 


Yellow  Chrysanthemum 

Pink  Phlox 

Rocket 

Foxglove 

Michaelmas  Daisy 

Foxglove 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Panicled  Hydrangea 

Pearl  Bush 

Fragrant  Honeysuckle 

Schott's  Juniper 
Siebold's  Desmodium 
Early  White  Phlox 
Blanket  Flower 
St.  John's  Wort 
Slender  Deutzia 
Pink  Chrysanthemum 
Early  Phlox 
Hardy  Phlox 
Japanese  Rose 
Wrinkled  Japanese  Rose 
Snow  Garland 


PLANTING  PLANS  AND  KEYS  THERETO 


233 


PLANTING  PLAN.— Fig.  178 


COMPLETE  HOME  GROUND  SURROUNDINGS 

Fig.    178. — Property  approximately  195  feet  x  163  feet.    A  very  complete  scheme  including 

a  tennis  court,  garage,  greenhouse  and  coldframes.     The  tennis  court  is  enclosed  by  a 

pergola  and  affords  a  space  for  open  air  theatricals,  the   workroom    of   the  greenhouse 

providing  a  dressing  room  for  the  same 


234 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE    GARDEN  I XG 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.   179 


Key 

No.     Quan. 


13 

5 

14 

6 

15 

7 

l6 

6 

23 

6 

24 

4 

25 

5 

26 

3 

27 

5 

28 

6 

29 

6 

30 

8 

31 

9 

32 

7 

33 

7 

34 

5 

35 

6 

36 

12 

37 

7 

38 

6 

39 

10 

40 

ID 

41 

10 

42 

8 

43 

3 

44 

10 

45 

12 

46 

3 

47 

16 

48 

:; 

49 

18 

SO 

12 

51 

10 

52 

6 

53 

10 

54 

12 

55 

6 

56 

12 

57 

8 

58 

8 

59 

5 

6o 

2 

6i 

9 

62 

8 

63 

5 

•54 

5 

Vartetj/ 
Populus  fastigiata 
Populus  fastigata 
Quercus  palustris 
Fraxinus  americana 
Acer  saccharum 
Salisburia  adiantifolia 
Acer  polymorphum  dissectum  rubrum 
Thuya  plicatutn 
Juniperus  elegantissima  Leei 
Liquidambar  styraciflua 
Viburnum  tomentosum 
Lonicera  fragrantissima 
Syringa,  named  varieties 
Hydrangea  paniculata 
Philadelphus  coronarius 
Rosa  rugosa 
Buddleia  \'eitchiana 
\'iburnum  plicatum 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Rhododendron  album  elegans 
Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Rosa  rugosa 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Philadelphus  Lemoinei 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Spiraea  arguta 
Kerria  japonica,  single 
Iris  Silver  King 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Rosa  multiflora 
Phlox  divaricata 
Aquilegia  flabellata  nana  alba 
Stokesia  cyanea 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Paeony  Festiva  maxima 
Aster  amellus  Beauty  of  Ronsdorf 
Chrysanthemum  Julia  Lagrav^re 
Paeony  Richardson's  grandiflora 
Delphinium  formosum 
Dicentra  spectabilis 
Helenium  Hoopesii 
\'eronica  longifolia  subsessilis 
Phlox  Miss  Lingard 
Kerria  japonica,  single 
Hesperis  matronalis 

Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Aquilegia  chrysantha 
Phlox  Rheinstrom 
Phlox  Ardense  Grete 
Syringa.  named  varieties 
Juniperus  virginiana 
Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Hibiscus  syriacus,  single 
Philadelphus  Mont  Blanc 


Common  Name 
Lombardy  Poplars 
Lombardj'  Poplars 
Pin  Oak 
American  Ash 
Sugar  Maple 
Maidenhair  Tree 
Cut-leaved    Japanese    Maple 
Fern-leaved  Arborvitae 
Golden  Juniper 
Sweet  Gum 

Single  Japanese  Snowball 
Early  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Lilacs 

Late  Hydrangea 
Mock  Orange 
Japanese  Rose 
Butterfly  Plant 
Japanese  Snowball 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Hybrid  Abelia 
White  Rhododendron 
Pink  Rhododendron 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Japanese  Rose 
Drooping  Spiraea 
Snow  Garland 
Red  Weigela 
Mock  Orange 
Drooping  Spiraea 
Large  flowering  Hydrangea 
Snow  Garland 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Japanese  Azalea 
Japanese  Azalea 
Hybrid  Spiraea 
Yellow  Kerria 
White  Flag 
St.  John's  Wort 
Dwarf  Japanese  Rose 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
White  Columbine 
Stokes'  Aster 
Lavender  Flag 
White  Peony 
Michaelmas  Daisy 
Red  Chrysanthemum 
Peony 

Indigo  Larkspur 
Bleeding  Heart 
Early  Sneezewort 
Speedwell 
Early  Phlox 
Single  Kerria 
Sweet  Rocket 
Yellow  Chrysanthemum 
Dark  Red  Weigela 
Yellow  Columbine 
Pink  Phlox 
Early  White  Phlox 
Lilac 

Red  Cedar 
Pink  Phlox 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Pink  Rose  of  Sharon 
Mock  Orange 


PLANTING 
PLAN 

Fig.    179.— 

Showing  a  good 
treatment  of  a 
property 
50  feet  X  100 
feet,  using 
broken  flag- 
stones with 
mortar  joints 
for  the  main 
walk  and  step- 
ping stone  walk 
to  the  service 
quarters  and 
the  rear  lawn. 
The  service 
yard  enclosed 
by  hedge 


2  36 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


A  property 

and 

garage. 

Kty 

No. 

Quan. 

I 

9 

2 

l6 

3 

I2S 

4 

350 

5 

3 

7 

I 

8 

5 

10 

10 

II 

3 

12 

10 

13 

6 

14 

5 

15 

I 

i6 

14 

KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  180 

75  feet  X  150  feet,  providing  space  for  flower  and  Rose  garden,  tea  house,  pool 
Entrance  to  the  garage  is  arranged  with  two  cement  tracks,  with  turf  between. 


23 

8 

24 

12 

25 

6 

26 

8 

27 

5 

29 

3 

30 

8 

32 

5 

33 

3 

34 

I 

35 

I 

36 

2 

37 

4 

39 

I 

40 

15 

41 

5 

42 

9 

422 

7 

43 

8 

44 

6 

44q 

4 

45 

I 

46 

5 

47 

9 

48 

3 

49 

I 

SO 

5 

SI 

9 

52 

10 

53 

9 

54 

6 

55 

6 

56 

6 

57 

3 

58 

7 

59 

10 

60 

8 

6l 

5 

62 

I 

65 

9 

66 

12 

67 

6 

68 

12 

69 

8 

70 

"I 

I 

Variety 
Juniperus  virginiana 
Roses.  Hybrid  Tea  (Standards) 
Hybrid  Tea  Roses 
Ligustrum  ovalifolium 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
-       .  .,  .1  Key  Nos.— 6    9  22 

Lonicera  Morrowi  <  i;.  -f^ — ^    .    ~ — r~ 

I  No.  Plants-5    6     5 
Magnolia  acuminata 
Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis 
Buddleia  \'eitchiana 
Biota  orientalis  conspicua 
Desmodium  japonicum 
Hydrangea  quercifolia 
Forsythia  suspensa 
Red  Siberian  Crab 
Dianthus  barbatus 
T,     u     ■    Tu      u       ■•  (Key  Nos.-17    18 
Berbens  Thunbergu  |  ^o.  Plants- 9     9 
Deutzia  Lemoinei 
Phlox  W.  C.  Egan 
Iris  Silver  King 
Rose  Pink  Baby  Rambler 
Rose  White  Baby  Rambler 
Rose  Hermosa 
Rose  Pink  Baby  Rambler 
Rosa  rugosa 
Lonicera  fragrantissima 
Phlox  Miss  Lingard 
Juniperus  Sabina 
Taxus  cuspidata 
Larix  europaea 
Cornus  florida  rubra 
Buxus  arborescens  (Globe » 
Taxus  cuspidata 
Magnolia  conspicua 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Forsythia  suspensa 
.•\belia  grandifiora 
Hydrangea  radiata 
Xanthorriza  apiifi)lia 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Syringa  vulgaris 
Apple,  Grimes'  Golden 
Philadelphus  coronarius 
Spiraea  Margaritae 
Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 
Liquidambar  styraciflua 
Hydrangea  paniculata 
Oenothera  missouriensis 
Iris  Blue  Boy 

Chrysanthemum  St.  Illoria 
Paeonia  Van  Houttei 
Funkia  caerulea 
Phlox  Diadem 
Paeonia  festiva  maxima 
Delphinium  chinense 
Iris  pumila  aurea 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Pyrus  Maulei 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Phlox  Eugene  Danzanvilliers 
Iris  aurea 
Paeonia  grandiflora 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Chrysanthemum  Julia  Lagravdre 
Annuals  and  Perennials 
Populus  fastigiata 


5     3     3J 


Common  Name 
Red  Cedar 

Everblooming  Roses 
California  Privet 
Drooping  Spiraea 

[  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Cucumber  Tree 

Snowball 

Butterfly  Plant 

Columnar     Chinese     .\rborvitae 

Purple  Bush  Clover 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea 

Drooping  Golden  Bell 

Crab  .'\pple 

Sweet  William 


31     641 


Japanese  Barberry 

Lemoine's  Deutzia 
Hardy  Phlox 
White  Flag 
Everblooming  Rose 
Everblooming  Rose 
Everblooming  Rose 
Everblooming  Rose 
Japanese  Rose 
Early  Honeysuckle 
Early  Phlox 
Savin  Juniper 
Japanese  Yew 
European  Larch 
Pink  Dog\vood 
Globe-shaped  Box 
Japanese  Yew 
Wliite  Magnolia 
St.  John's  Wort 
Drooping  Golden  Beh 
Hybrid  .-^belia 
Silver-leaved  Hydrangea 
Yellow  Root 
Snow  Garland 
Lilac 

Mock  Orange 

Pink  Spiraea 

Blue  Cedai 

Sweet  Gum 

Late  Hydrangea 

Evening  Primrose 

German  Flag 

Pink  Chrysanthemum 

Crimson  Peony 

Plantain  Lily 

Hardy  Phlox 

White  Peony 

Chinese  Larkspur 

Dwarf  Flag 

Show  Garland 

Pink  Japanese  Quince 

Pyramidal  Cedar 

Lilac  Plilox 

Yellow  Flag 

Pink  Peony 

Lavender  Flag 

Red  Chrysanthemum 

Lombardy  Poplar 


E=-      r^    •£=  ^~i  T 


^^ 


IJ 


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PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


239 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  181 


A  property  85  feet  x  200  feet.     Good  arrangement 

the   street  and   living-room,  with  a  southeastern 

The  fountain  and  pool  are  the 


Key 
No. 


Quan. 

I 
S 
4 
8 
8 
6 
9 


23 

5 

24 

8 

25 

12 

26 

6 

27 

8 

28 

II 

29 

6 

30 

7 

31 

12 

32 

3 

33 

7 

34 

3 

35 

12 

36 

5 

37 

12 

38 

4 

39 

7 

40 

8 

41 

12 

4lH 

25 

42 

I 

43 

5 

43M 

lo 

44 

5 

4S 

lo 

46 

6 

47 

5 

48 

I 

49 

7 

SO 

5 

51 

5 

52 

I 

53 

7 

54 

5 

55 

10 

S6 

7 

57 

I 

S8 

S 

59 

S 

6o 

7 

6i 

6 

62 

7 

63 

I 

64 

I 

Variety 

Pinus  austriaca 

Styrax  japonica 

Syringa  Marie  Legray 

Weigela  Eva  Rathke 

Cotoneaster  microphylla 

Kerria  japonica 

Buddleia  Veitchiana 

Picea  orientalis 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Rhododendron  Charles  Dickens 

Rhododendron  album  elegans 

Juniperus  virginiana 

Rhododendron  maximum  roseum 

Rhododendron  Chas.  Bagley 

Rhododendron  Mrs.  John  Glutton 

Cedrus  Deodara 

Hibiscus  syriacus,  single  pink 

Hydrangea  paniculata 

Buddleia  Veitchii 

Genista  tinctoria 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Pinus  Strobus 

Cornus  florida 

Cercis  japonica 

Hypericum  Moserianum 

Hydrangea  Otaksa 

Viburnum  plicatum 

Spiraea  .-X.  Waterer 

Forsythia  suspensa 

Syringa  vulgaris 

Desmodium  penduliflorum 

Thuya  Geo.  Peabody 

Lonicera  Morrowi 

Tilia  europaea 

Rosa  rubiginosa 

Rosa  rugosa,  red 

Rosa,  Baby  Rambler  white 

Kerria  japonica 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Buddleia  Veitchiana 

Hypericum  Moserianum 

Philadelphus  Mont  Blanc 

Retinispora  obtusa  nana 

Weigela  Eva  Rathke 

Cotoneaster  microphylla 

Hydrangea  quercifolia 

Deutzia  gracilis 

Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 

Hibiscus  syriacus,  blue  and  white 

Tsuga  canadensis 

Caryopteris  mastacanthus 

Lonicera  fragrantissiraa 

Cornus  florida  rubra 

Pinus  Strobus 

Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

Weigela  rosea 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Buddleia  Veitchii 

Pseudostuga  Douglasi 

Lonicera  Morrowi 

Syringa  vulgaris 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Caryopteris  mastacanthus 

Forsythia  suspensa 

Koelreuteria  paniculata 

Picea  pungens  Kosteriana 


for  residence  with  kitchen  wing  toward 
exposure,  looking  out  on  the  lawn, 
interesting  features 

Common  Name 

Austrian  Pine 

Japanese  Styrax 

White  Lilac 

Dark  Red  Weigela 

Small-leaved  Rose  Box 

Single  Corchorus 

Butterfly  Plant 

Oriental  Spruce 

Hybrid  .•\belia 

Crimson  Rhododendron 

White  Rhododendron 

Red  Cedar 

Pink  Rhododendron 

Crimson  Rhododendron 

White  Rhododendron 

True  Cedar 

Rose  of.  Sharon 

Late  Hvdrangea 

Butterfly  Plant 

Broom 

Snow  Garland 

White  Pine 

White  Dogwood 
Japanese  Judas 

St.  John's  Wort 

Pink  Large-flowering  Hydrangea 

Japanese  Snowball 

Dwarf  Pink  Spiraea 

Drooping  Golden  Bell 

Lilac 

Bush  Clover 

Golden  ArborvittC 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 

European  Linden 

Sweet  Brier  Rose 

Japanese  Rose 

Dwarf  Everblooming  Rose 

Single  Corchorus 

Snow  Garland 

Butterfly  Plant 

St.  John's  Wort 

Mock  Orange 

Dwarf  Japanese  Cedar 

Dark  Red  Weigela 

Small-leaved  Rose  Box 

Oak-leaved  Hydrangea 

Slender  Deutzia 

Large-flowering  Hydrangea 

Rose  of  Sharon 

Hemlock 

Blue  Spiraea 

Fragrant  Bush  Honeysuckle 

Pink  Dogwood 

White  Pine 

White  Kerria 

Pink  Weigela 

Snow  Garland 

Butterfly  Plant 

Douglas  Spruce 

Bush  Honeysuckle 

Lilac 

Snow  Garland 

Blue  Spiraea 

Golden  Bell 

Varnish  Tree 

Blue  Spruce 


240 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  181 -Continued 


Key 

No. 

Quan. 

Variety 

65 

I 

Larix  europaea 

66 

I 

Magnolia  Soulangeana 

67 

3 

Populus  fastigiata 

68 

3 

Betula  nigra 

69 

I 

Red  Siberian  Crab 

70 

I 

Fraxinus  americana 

71 

I 

Cerasus  japonica  rosea  pendula 

72 

2 

Cryptomeria  Lobbi  compacta 

73 

10 

Leucothoe  Catesbaei 

74 

3 

Mahonia  japonica 

75 

5 

Mahonia  aquifolia 

76 

7 

Azalea  Hinodegiri 

77 

I 

Retinispora  obtusa  gracilis 

78 

9 

Leucothoe  Catesbaei 

79 

4 

Mahonia  japonica 

80 

9 

Hypericum  Moserianum 

81 

7 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 

82 

7 

Rhododendron  atrosanguineum 

83 

6 

Andromeda  floribunda 

84 

5 

Rhododendron  maximum  roseum 

8S 

Azalea  indica  alba 

86 

5 

Rhododendron  maximum  roseum 

87 

5 

Rhododendron  Mrs.  J.  Glutton 

88 

5 

Thuya  occidentalis  pyramidalis 

89 

7 

Cotoneaster  Simonsii 

90 

6 

Lonicera  fragrantissima 

91 

7 

Cotoneaster  Simonsii 

92 

3 

Thuya  occidentalis  pyramidalis 

93 

8 

Hydrangea  paniculata  grandifiora 

94 

7 

Desmodium  penduliflorum 

95 

5 

Lonicera  fragrantissima 

96 

3 

Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 

97 

9 

Spiraea  A.  Waterer 

98 

5 

Kerria  japonica  fl.  pi. 

99 

5 

Viburnum  plicatum 

100 

3 

Biota  orientalis  pyramidalis 

lOI 

8 

Spiraea  callosa  rosea 

102 

10 

Yucca  filamentosa 

103 

6 

Buddleia  Veitchii 

104 

3 

Juniperus  virginiana 

105 

12 

Leucothoe  Catesbaei 

106 

7 

Mahonia  aquifolia 

107 

5 

Azalea  indica  alba 

108 

6 

Deutzia  gracilis 

109 

I 

Retinispora  filifera 

no 

I 

Juniperus  elegantissima  Leei 

in 

I 

Salisburia  adiantifolia 

112 

I 

Juniperus  Pfitzeriana 

113 

12 

Phlox  .^rdensi  .Amanda 

114 

30 

Viola  cornuta,  purple 

ns 

20 

Antirrhinum,  yellow 

n6 

ID 

Iris  pallida  dalmatica 

n? 

16 

Phlox  Von  Lassburg 

n8 

12 

Delphinium  formosum 

119 

18 

Heliotrope  Chieftain 

120 

8 

Geranium,  white 

121 

20 

Antirrhinum,  yellow 

122 

30 

Viola  cornuta,  blue 

123 

8 

Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 

124 

10 

Heliopsis  Pitcheriana 

125 

IS 

Iris  Kaempferi 

126 

12 

Phlox  Ardensi  Amanda 

127 

18 

Heliotrope  Chieftain 

128 

8 

Geranium,  white 

Common  Name 
European  Linden 
Pink  Magnolia 
Lombardy  Poplar 
Red  Birch 
Crab  Apple 
American  Ash 
Weeping  Cherry 
Pyramidal  Cryptomeria 
Pipewood 

Japanese     Evergreen      Barberry 
Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Thread-leaved  Cedar 
Pipewood 

Japanese      Evergreen      Barberry 
St.  John's  Wort 
Pink  Rhododendron 
Crimson  Rhododendron 
Early  Andromeda 
Pink  Rhododendron 
White  .Azalea 
Pink  Rhododendron 
White  Rhododendron 
Pyramidal  .Arborvitae 
Shining  Rose  Box 
Fragrant  Honeysuckle 
Shining  Rose  Box 
Pyramidal  .Arborvitae 
Large-flowering  Hydrangea 
Bush  Clover 

Fragrant  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Blue  Cedar 
Dwarf  Pink  Spiraea 
Double  Corchorus 
Japanese  Snowball 
Chinese  Arborvitae 
Pink  Spiraea 
.Adam's  Needle 
Butterfly  Plant 
Red  Cedar 
Pipewood 

Holly-leaved  Barberry 
White  Azalea 
Slender  Deutzia 
Lace-leaved  Cedar 
Golden  Juniper 
Maidenhair  Tree 
Pfitzer's  Cedar 
Early  Phlox 
Tufted  Pansy 
Snapdragon 
Lavender  Flag 
White  Phlox 
Indigo  Larkspur 
Heliotrope 
Geranium 
Snapdragon 
Tufted  Pansy 
Pink  Phlox 
Orange  Sunflower 
Japanese  Iris 
Early  Phlox 
Heliotrope 
Geranium 


PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


241 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN. -Fig.  182 

Lot  1 80  feet  x  240  feet.  Treatment  for  a  residence  with  a  steep  slope  at  the  front  and  rear 

of  the  lot.     The  residence  has  a  basement  entrance  with  living  rooms  on  the  upper 

level,  about  ten  feet  above  the  pavement.     The  steep  slopes  are  planted 

with  shrubs  and  small  trees  of  spiny  or  twiggy  growth,  affording 

protection   without   a   fence   or   hedge,    presenting   a 

naturalistic    appearance    and     providing    a 

cover  for  birds 


Kty 

No. 

Quart. 

Variety 

Common  Name 

I 

15 

Juniperus  virginiana 

Red  Cedar 

2 

15 

Spiraea  Van  Houttei 

Drooping  Spiraea 

3 

50 

Rosa  rubiginosa 

Sweet  Brier 

4 

15 

Crataegus  cordata 

Washington  Thorn 

S 

30 

Hibiscus  syriacus 

Rose  of  Sharon 

6 

30 

Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 

Large-flowering  Hydrangea 

7 

12 

Paeonia  I'Esperance 

Peony 

8 

20 

Phlox  divaricata 

Early  Blue  Phlox 

9 

20 

Iris  Silver  King 

White  Flag 

10 

35 

Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 

Pink  Hardy  Phlox 

II 

35 

Aster  grandiflorus 

Michaelmas  Daisy 

12 

15 

Paeonia  \'an  Houttei 

Crimson  Peony 

13 

40 

Rudbeckia  Newmani 

Black-eyed  Susan 

14 

20 

Pentstemon  Torreyi 

Beard's  Tongue 

15 

25 

Delphinium  formosum 

Indigo  Larkspur 

l6 

15 

Delphinium  chinense 

Chinese  Larkspur 

17 

20 

Funkia  cserulea 

Plantain  Lily 

i8 

20 

Phlox  Miss  Lingard 

Early  Phlox 

19 

12 

Dianthus  barbatus 

Sweet  William 

20 

15 

Delphinium  elatum 

Tall  Blue  Larkspur 

21 

16 

Aster  alpinus 

Alpine  .'^ster 

22 

18 

Iris  Mme.  Chereau 

German  Iris 

23 

12 

Paeonia  festiva  maxima 

White  Peony 

24 

30 

Delphinium  elatum 

Tall  Blue  Larkspur 

25 

25 

Rudbeckia  Newmani 

Black-eyed  Susan 

26 

10 

Dicentra  spectabilis 

Bleeding  Heart 

2" 

15 

Geum  coccineum 

.Avens 

28 

20 

Delphinium  formosum 

Indigo  Larkspur 

29 

30 

Phlox  Crete 

Early  Phlox 

30 

20 

Iris  pallida  dalmatica 

Lavender  Flag 

31 

15 

Funkia  cserulea 

Plantain  Lily 

32 

20 

Dicentra  spectabilis 

Bleeding  Heart 

33 

15 

Chrysanthemum  Golden  Queen 

Hardy  Chrysanthemum 

34 

20 

Delphinium  formosum 

Indigo  Larkspur 

35 

20 

Aster  amellus  elegans 

Michaelmas  Daisy 

36 

18 

Phlox  Miss  Lingard 

Early  Phlox 

37 

30 

Iris  Ksempferi 

Japanese  Flag 

38 

30 

Digitalis  purpurea 

Foxgloves 

39 

20 

Doronicum  plantagineum 

Leopard's  Bane 

40 

2  5 

Scabiosa  caucasica  alba 

White  Sultan 

41 

20 

Phlox  Rheinstrom 

Pink  Phlox 

42 

30 

Eupatorium  cselestinum 

Hardy  Ageratum 

43 

40 

Aquilegia  canadensis 

Red  Columbine 

44 

25 

Helenium  Hoopesii 

Early  Sneezewort 

45 

40 

Digitalis  purpurea 

Foxgloves 

46 

12 

.■\ucuba  japonica.  green 

Japanese  Laurel 

47 

10 

.•\belia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  .A.belia 

48 

10 

Tsuga  canadensis 

Hemlock 

15 

Tsuga  canadensis 

Hemlock 

49 

30 

Cornus  florida 

White  Dogwood 

10 

Populus  fastigiata 

Lombardy  Poplar 

SO 

10 

Tsuga  canadensis 

Hemlock 

26 

Crataegus  cordata 

Washington  Thorn 

51 

25 

Syringa  persica 

Persian  Lilac 

52 

40 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Hybrid  Abelia 

53 

20 

Ligustrum  Regelianum 

Regel's  Privet 

54 

12 

Euonymus  alatus 

Cork-barked  Spindle  Tree 

55 

15 

Cornus  stolonif.ra 

Red-twigged  Dogwood 

56 

30 

Stephanandra  fiexuosa 

Stephanandra 

57 

30 

Forsythia  suspensa 

Drooping  Golden  Bell 

58 

I 

Abies  Veitchii 

V'eitch's  Fir 

PLANTING    PLAN.— Fig.    182.— See  Key,  pages  241  and  243 


PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


243 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  182-Continued 


No. 

Quan. 

59 

I 

60 

I 

61 

3 

6li 

I 

62 

I 

63 

I 

64 

20 

6S 

40 

66 

12 

67 

20 

68 

25 

69 

15 

70 

16 

71 

18 

72 

IS 

73 

7 

74 

20 

75 

10 

76 

25 

76J 

21 

77 

20 

78 

12 

79 

20 

80 

10 

81 

20 

82 

20 

S3 

40 

84 

30 

85 

15 

86 

30 

87 

IS 

88 

30 

89 

15 

90 

5 

91 

10 

92 

15 

93 

20 

94 

I 

95 

I 

96 

I 

97 

I 

98 

20 

99 

30 

100 

60 

lOI 

50 

102 

50 

103 

50 

104 

20 

I  OS 

7 

106 

8 

107 

20 

108 

25 

109 

12 

no 

20 

III 

12 

112 

20 

113 

IS 

114 

100 

IIS 

14 

116 

8 

117 

30 

118 

IS 

119 

15 

120 

250 

121 

9 

122 

20 

Variety 
Betula  alba 
Quercus  rubra 
Styrax  japonica 
Quercus  palustris 
Cedrus  Deodora 
Cedrela  sinensis 
Mahonia  japonica 
Ligustrum  lucidum 
Thuya  occidentalis 
Spiraea  Van  Houttei 
Chrysanthemum  JuHa  Lagravere 
Rudbeckia  Newmani 
Lonicera  fragrantissima 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Helianthus  mollis 
Thuya  occidentalis  pyramidalis 
Spirsea  A.  Waterer 
Yucca  filamentosa 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Salisburia  adiantifolia 
Rliodotypos  kerrioides 
V'iburnum  dentatum 
Heliopsis  Pitcheriana 
Dicentra  spectabilis 
Phlox  Miss  Lingard 
Pentstemon  barbatus 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Hesperis  matronalis 
Iris  aurea 

Eupatorium  caelestinum 
Funkia  cserulea 
Bocconia  cordata 
Aster  Isevis 

Viburnum  tomentosum 
Mahonia  aquifolia 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Berberis  ilicifoha 
Cryptomeria  japonica 
Fagus  sylvatica  Riversi 
Magnolia  Soulangeana 
Picea  pungens  Kosteriana 
Magnolia  glauca 
Cornus  stolonifera 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 
Rosa  rubiginosa 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Juniperus  virginiana 
Pyrus  japonica 
Exochorda  grandiflora 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Syringa  vulgaris 
Callicarpa  purpurea 
Pentstemon  Torreyi 
Phlox  divaricata 
Hesperis  matronalis 
Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora  alba 
Hydrangea  paniculata,  late 
Phlox  divaricata 
Rhododendron  Charles  Dickens 
Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Buxus  sempervirens 
Juniperus  Schottii 
Rhododendron,  Hybrids 


Common  Name 
White  Birch 
Red  Oak 
Styrax 
Pin  Oak 
True  Cedar 
Chinese  Cedrela 
Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Evergreen  Holly 
ArborvitsB 
Drooping  Spira?a 
Dark  Red  Chrysanthemum 
Black-eyed  Susan 
Early  Fragrant  Honeysuckle 
Foxglove 
Sunflower 

Pyramidal  Arborvitae 
Dwarf  Pink  Spiraja 
Adam's  Needle 
St.  John's  Wort 
Maidenhair  Tree 
White  Kerria 
Arrow  Wood 
Orange  Sunflower 
Bleeding  Heart 
Early  Phlox 
Sweet  William 
Japanese  Barberry 
Rocket 
Yellow  Flag 
Hardy  Chrysanthemum 
Plantain  Lily 
Plume  Poppy 
Lavender  Aster 
Japanese  Snowball 
Holly-leaved  Barberry 
St.  John's  Wort 
Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Cryptomeria 
Purple  Beech 
Pink  Magnolia 
Blue  Spruce 
Sweet  Bay 

Red-twigged  Dogwood 
Japanese  Barberry 
Coral  Berry 
Sweet  Brier 
Regel  Privet 
Japanese  Barberry 
Red  Cedar 
Japanese  Quince 
Pearl  Bush 

Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Lilacs 

Beauty  Berry 
Beard's  Tongue 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
Sweet  Rocket 
Pink  Phlox 
Hills  of  Snow 
Late  Hydrangea 
Early  Blue  Phlox 
Dark  Red  Rhododendron 
Pink  Rhododendron 
Bo.x  edging 
Schott's  Cedar 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 


244  PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


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PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO  245 


n 

n 

"T"?.'":'.  : 

PLANTING  PLAN.— Fig.  183 

Fig.   183. — Lot  190  feet  by  190  feet.     Residence  lot  designed  to  provide  a  flower  garden- 
garage,  enclosed  service  yard  and  croquet  lawn.     The  interesting  features  are  a 
terrace  walk  as  shown  in  Fig.  55,  stepping  stone  walk  in  lawn  as  shown  in 
Fig.  6  and  unique  entrance  arrangement  as  shown  in  Fig.  33 


vT?"  cr  y^  i^  s~ 


Arrangement 


Key 

No.     Quan 


PLANTING   PLANS  AND   KEYS   THERETO  247 

KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  184 

designed  for  a  contractor's  residence,  with  detached  office  and  good  service 
yard  arrangement  »crv.cc 


13 
14 
IS 

16 
17 
18 
19 


23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 

38 

39 

40 

41 

42 

43 

44 

45 

46 

47 

48 

49 

50 

51 

52 

53 

54 
55 
56 


59 
60 
61 
62 
63 
64 
65 
66 
67 


30 
15 


30 
30 


14 

6 

IS 


Variety 
Viburnum  plicatum 
Forsytliia  suspensa 
Cah-canthus  floridus 
^^■eisela  Eva  Rathke 
Philadelpluis  coronarius 
Hydrangea  p.  g. 
Thuya  occidentalis  globosa 
Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Rhododendron  Charles.  Dickens 
Rhododendron  Mrs.  J.  Glutton 
.Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Rhodotypos  kerrioides 
Hibiscus  syriacus,  single 
Hydrangea  paniculata  grandiflora 
Carnation  (annual) 
Larkspur  (annual) 
Zinnias,  clear  yellow 
Papaver  nudicaule 
Heliotrope  Chieftain 
Chrysanthemum,  Shasta  Daisy 
CEnothera  missouriensis 
Iris  iVIme.  Chereau 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
.Aster  Alpinus 
Berberis  vulgaris 
Funkia  caerulea 
Begonias 
Begonias 

.A.belia  grandiflora 
Funkia  caerulea 
Phlo.x  \'on  Lassburg 
Chrysanthemum  Shasta  Daisy 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
.Azalea  amcEna 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Rhododendron  album  elegans' 
Rhododendron  Everestianum 
Rhododendron,  Charles  Dickens 
-Abeha  grandiflora 
Calluna  vulgaris 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Spiraea  .A.  Waterer 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Spirsa  Van  Houttei 
Juniperus  Schottii 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Iris  Volande 
Cornus  florida 
Cedrela  sinensis 
Cercis  japonica 

Thuya  occidentalis  pyramidalis 
JJesmodium  penduliflorum 
PKonia  -Andre  Lauris 
Iris  Kaempferi 
Cornus  florida  rubra 
CEnothera  missouriensis 
Chrysanthemum  arcticim 
Paeonia  \'an  Houttei 
Buddleia  Witchiana 
Hesperis  matronalis 
Hypericum  iMoserianum 
.Aquilegia  canadensis 
Mahonia  aquifolia 
Deutzia  gracilis 
Amygdalus  nana,  pink 
Phlo.x  divaricata 


Common  Name 
Japanese  Snowball 
Drooping  Golden  Bell 
Old-tashioned  Sweet  Shrub 
Dark  Red  Weigela 
Mock  Orange 

Large-flowering  Hydrangea 
Crlobe  .Arborvitae 
Japanese  Evergreen  Azalea 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Evergreen  .Azalea 
White  Kerria 
Pink  Rose  of  Sharon 
Large-flowering  Hydrangea 

Youth  and  Old  Age 
Iceland  Poppy 

Shasta  Daisy 
Evening  Primrose 
White  Blue  Flag 
Japanese  Barberry 
Alpine  .Aster 
Common  Barberry 
Plantain  Lily 

Hybrid  Abelia 
Plantain  Lily 
White  Phlo.x 

St.  John's  Wort 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  .Abelia 
Scotch  Heather 
Hybrid  .Abelia 
Dwarf  Pink  Spirsa 
Regel's  Privet 
Snow  Garland 
Drooping  Spiraea 
Schott's  Juniper 
Snow  Garland 
Purple  Flag 

Dogwood 

Cedrela 

Japanese  Judas 

Arborvitas 

Bush  Clover 

Peony 

Japanese  Iris 

Pink  Dogwood 

Evening  Primrose 

Arctic  Daisy 

Peony 

Butterfly  Plant 

Sweet  Rocket 

St.  John's  Wort 

Red  Columbine 

Holly-leaved  Barberry 

Dwarf  Deutzia 
Flowering  .Almond 

Early  Blue  Phlox 


248 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  1 84-Continued 


Common  Name 
White  Flag 
White  Peony 
Foxglove 
Foxglove 
Early  Phlox 
Yellow  Day  Lily 
Cowslip 
Yellow  Flag 
Pink  Chrysanthemum 
Yellow  Columbine 
Pink  Aster 
Plantain  Lily 
Indigo  Larkspur 
Chinese  Larkspur 
Blanket  Flower 
Japanese  Iris 
Pearl  Bush 
Snake  Root 
Pink  Weigela 
Golden  Bell 
Late  Hydrangea 


Early  Blue  Phlox 
Japanese  Iris 
Pink  Phlox 
Hybrid  Larkspur 

Snapdragon 

Sugar  Maple 

Pin  Oak 

Red  Japanese  Maple 

Maidenhair  Tree  Ginkgo 
Lombardy  Poplar 
Yellow-twigged  Linden 
Pink  Climbing  Rose 
White  Climbing  Rose 


Key 

No. 

Quart 

Variety 

68 

7 

Iris  Silver  King 

69 

6 

Paeonia  festiva  maxima 

70 

8 

Digitalis  purpurea 

71 

8 

Digitalis  purpurea 

72 

8 

Phlox  Miss  Lingard 

73 

7 

Hemerocallis  flava 

74 

10 

Primula  polyantha 

75 

12 

Iris  Germanica  aurea 

76 

10 

Chrysanthemum  St.  Illoria 

77 

9 

Aquilegia  chrj'santha 

78 

8 

Aster  amellus  elegans 

79 

10 

Funkia  caerulea 

8o 

10 

Delphinium  formosum 

8i 

10 

Delphinium  chinense 

82 

10 

Gaillardia  grandiflora 

83 

8 

Iris  Kaempferi 

84 

S 

Exochorda  grandiflora 

85 

20 

Eupatorium  ageratoides 

86 

6 

Weigela  rosea 

87 

6 

Forsythia  viridissima 

88 

8 

Hydrangea  paniculata 

89 

20 

Hybrid  Tea  Roses 

90 

15 

Aster,  Blue  (annual) 

91 

12 

Phlox  divaricata 

92 

10 

Iris  Kaempferi 

93 

10 

Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 

94 

8 

Delphinium  elatum 

95 

25 

Ageratum 

96 

12 

Antirrhinum,  yellow 

97 

I 

Acer  saccharum 

98 

I 

Quercus  palustris 

99 

2 

Acer  polymorphum  atropurpureum 

100 

2 

Roses,  standards 

lOI 

I 

Salisburia  adiantifolia 

102 

10 

Populus  fastigiata 

103 

I 

f      I 

Tilia  dasystyla 
Rose.  Tausendschon 

104 

i  I 

Rose  Alberic  Barbier 

PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


249 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN-Fig.  186 


Fig.  186. 


Key 

No. 

Quan. 

I 

35 

2 

35 

3 

25 

4 

10 

5 

17 

6 

12 

7 

7 

8 

40 

9 

20 

10 

SO 

II 

30 

20 

12 

SO 

13 

60 

14 

20 

15 

20 

l6 

5 

17 

30 

i8 

20 

19 

IS 

20 

35 

21 

35 

22 

7 

23 

30 

24 

25 

25 

35 

30 

26 

20 

26>^ 

10 

27 

75 

27j^ 

lO 

28 

40 

29 

20 

30 

5 

31 

30 

32 

30 

33 

15 

34 

30 

35 

35 

36 

35 

37 

45 

38 

40 

39 

30 

40 

50 

41 

35 

42 

45 

43 

35 

44 

65 

45 

45 

46 

50 

47 

40 

48 

IS 

49 

40 

SO 

25 

51 

25 

52 

18 

53 

IS 

54 

30 

55 

20 

30 

56 

20 

57 

30 

S8 

SO 

59 

14 

6o 

40 

6i 

20 

62 

25 

-Treatment  designed  to  attract  birds 
area,  thus  reducing  greatly  the 

I  'ariely 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Mahonia  japonica 
Euonymus  Bungeanus 
Euonymus  americana 
Cerasus  pennsylvanica 
Viburnum  Opulus  sterilis 
Cornus  florida 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 
Cotoneaster  Simonsii 
Ligustrum  Rcgelianum 
Ribes  aureum 
Itea  virginica 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Ligustrum  Quihoui 
Crataegus  Crus-galli 
Photinia  villosa 
Cerasus  Jas.  H.  Veitch 
Cornus  stolonifera 
Eyonymus  alatus 
Lonicera  tatarica 
Aralia  pentaphylla 
Callicarpa  purpurea 
Crataegus  cordata 
Sambucus  pubens 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
.•\ralia  spinosa 
Pinus  Strobus 
Eleagnus  longipes  (fruiting) 
Crataegus  Lelandi 
Rhus  copallina 

Lonicera  Morrowi,  Yellow  Berried 
Rhus  copallina 
Crataegus  pyracantha 
Amelanchier  botryapium 
Ilex  verticillata 
Lindea  benzoin 
Crataegus  cordata 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Pyrus  arbutifolia 
Euonymus  alatus 
Crataegus  Crus-galli 
Myrica  cerifera 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Viburnum  dentatum 
Chionanthus  virginica 
Rhodotypos  kerrioides 
Cornus  alternifolia 
Symphoricarpos  vulgaris 
Viburnum  cassinoides 
Ilex  glabra 
Viburnum  Lantana 
Crataegus  Oxycanlha 
Cornus  sibirica 
Pinus  rigida 
Viburnum  prunifolium 
Rhamnus  caroliniensis 
Pinus  Mughus 
Cornus  paniculata 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Berberis  vulgaris 
Cornus  florida 
Cornus  mascula 
Viburnum  dilitatum 
Lonicera  Ruprcchtiana 
Tsuga  canadensis 
Cornus  florida 
Eleagnus  longipes 


and  at  the  same  time  decrease  the  lawn 
cost  of  maintenance 

Common    Name 
Japanese  Barberry 
Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Chinese  Spindle  Tree 
Strawberry  Tree 
Honey  Cherry 
High  Bush  Cranberry 
White  Dogwood 
Coral  Berry 
Shining  Rose  Box 
Regel's  Privet 
Flowering  Currant 
Virginian  Willow 
Japanese  Barberry 
Evergreen  Privet 
Shining  Thorn 
Photinia 
Japanese  Cherry 
Red-twigged  Dogwood 
Cork-barked  Spindle  Tree 
Tartarian  Honeysuckle 
Dwarf  Angelica  Tree 
Beauty  Berry 
Washington  Thorn 
Red-berried  Elder 
Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Hercules'  Club 
White  Pine 
Silver  Thorn 
Evergreen  Thorn 
Shining  Sumach 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Shining  Sumach 
Evergreen  Thorn 
June  Berry 
Deciduous  Holly 
Spice  Bush 
Washington  Thorn 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Choke  Berry 

Cork-barked  Spindle  Tree 
Shining  Thorn 
Wax  Myrtle 
Regel's  Privet 
Arrow  Wood 
White  Fringe 
White  Kerria 
Blue  Dogwood 
Cora!  Berry 
Withe  Rod 
Inkberry 
Wayfaring  Tree 
English  Hawthorn 
Red-twigged  Cornel 
Pitch  Pine 
Sheep  Berry 
Buckthorn 
Dwarf  Pine 
Panicled  Dogwood 
Japanese  Barberry 
Common  Barberry 
White  Dogwood 
Cornelian  Cherry 
Japanese  Bush  Cranberry 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Hemlock  Spruce 
White  Dogwood 
Silver  Thorn 


250 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


PLANTING  PLAN— Fig   186 

See  Key,  pages  249  and  251 


PLANTING   PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


251 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN-Fig.  186-Continued 


Key 

No. 

Quan 

63 

50 

64 

I 

6S 

I 

66 

I 

67 

3 

68 

2 

69 

2 

"0 

3 

71 

I 

72 

I 

73 

7 

74 

7 

75 

7 

76 

12 

77 

12 

78 

s 

79 

7 

80 

10 

81 

8 

82 

8 

83 

9 

84 

14 

85 

14 

86 

6 

87 

5 

88 

8 

89 

6 

90 

7 

01 

12 

92 

8 

93 

12 

94 

12 

95 

6 

96 

14 

97 

10 

98 

7 

99 

10 

100 

7 

lOI 

10 

102 

12 

103 

8 

104 

5 

105 

6 

106 

2 

107 

2 

108 

I 

109 

2 

IIO 

2 

III 

3 

112 

3 

113 

I 

Symphoricarpus  racemosus 

Ulmus  americana 

Tilia  americana 

Acer  saccharum 

Populus  fa?tigiata 

Quercus  palustris 

Buxus  arborescens,  untrimmed 

Quercus  coccinea 

Quercus  rubra 

Quercus  rubra 

Rhododendron  Charles  Dickens 

Azalea  indica  alba 

Rhododendron  Mrs.  J.  Glutton 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Rhododendron  album  elegans 

Rhododendron  Charles  Dickens 

Azalea  Hinodegiri 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Rhododendron  album  elegans 

Rhododendron  John  Waterer 

Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 

Azalea  Hinodegiri 

Hypericum  Moserianum 

Azalea  indica  alba 

Aucuba  japonica,  green 

Abelia  grandiflora 

Spiraea  Thunbergii 

Lonicera  Morrowi 

Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 

Phlox  Grete 

Iris  Silver  King 

Paeonia  Andre  Lauris 

Buddleia  \'eitchii 

Phlox  \'on  Lassburg 

Phlox  Eugene  Danzanvilliers 

Kerria  japonica,  single 

Chrysanthemum  Golden  Mme.  Martha 

Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

Funkia  caerulea 

Pentstemon  Torreyi 

Dianthus  barbatus,  white 

Morus  tatarica 

Quercus  rubra 

Cerasus  pennsylvanica 

Prunus  serotina 

Quercus  tinctoria 

Larix  europiea 

Kcelreuteria  paniculata 

Pyrus  americana 

Magnolia  acuminata 

Quercus  palustris 


Common    Name 
Snowberry 
American  Elm 
American  Linden 
Sugar  Maple 
Lombardy  Poplar 
Pin  Oak 

Old-fashioned  Box 
Scarlet  Oak 
Red  Oak 
Red  Oak 

Hybrid  Rhododendron 
White  Azalea 
White  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Hybrid  Abelia 
White  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Evergreen  Azalea 
St.  John's  Wort 
White  Azalea 
Japanese  Laurel 
Hybrid  .\belia 
Snow  Garland 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Pink  Hardy  Phlox 
Early  Phlox 
White  Flag 
Red  Peony 
Butterflv  Shrub 
White  Phlox 
Mauve  Phlox 
Yellow  Kerria 
Yellow  Chri'santhemum 
White  Kerria 
Plantain  Lily 
Beard's  Tongue 
Sweet  William 
Russian  Mulberry 
Red  Oak 
Wild  Cherrv 
Wild  Black  Cherry 
Black  Oak 
European  Larch 
\'arnish  Tree 
Mountain  Ash 
Cucumber  Tree 
Pin  Oak 


PLANTING 

PLAN 

Fig.  188 

See  Key 
Pages  253-254 


PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


253 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-  Fig.  188 

Unusual  flower  garden,  designed  on  informal  lines,  planted  with  perennials  and  annuals 
to  provide  an  abundance  of  bloom  in  masses  throughout  the  Summer 


Key 

No. 


Quan. 

3 
3 
3 


12 

30 

13 

30 

14 

9 

IS 

15 

l6 

9 

17 

30 

30 

i8 

20 

19 

25 

20 

15 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 

27 

18 

28 

2 

29 

2 

29j^ 

2 

30 

20 

20 

31 

I 

32 

20 

i3 

30 

34 

27 

35 

I 

36 

45 

37 

40 

38 

20 

39 

I 

40 

40 

41 

40 

42 

27 

43 

20 

44 

30 

45 

25 

46 

I 

■^^w 

40 

47H 

40 

48 

3 

3 
3 

49 

45 

50 

I 

51 

45 

52 

65 

53 

5 

54 

48 

55 

I 

56 

45 

Variety 
Forsythia  yiridissima 
Philadelphus  coronarius 
Hydrangea  paniculata,  late 
Populus  Bolleana 

Arabis  albida 
Narcissus  Von  Sion 
Juniperus  virginiana 
Juniperus  Schottii 
Iris  pallida  dalmatica 
Syringa,  named  kinds 
Lilium  auratum 
Rudbeckia  laciniata  fl.  pi. 
Delphinium  hybridum 
Aster  noyi-belgii,  var.  Climax 
Chrysanthemum  Boston 
Marigolds 
Centaurea  montana 
Campanula  persicifolia 
Paeonia,  named  kinds 
Houstonia  serpyllifolia 
Pansies 

Lilium  speciosum  roseum 
Digitalis  purpurea 
Eupatorium  cselestinum 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Juniperus  chinensis 
Juniperus  Schottii 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Juniperus  virginiana  glauca 
Juniperus  chinensis 
Marigolds 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Ligustrum  ovalifolium  (to  form 

an  arch) 
Gladiolus  Sulphur  King 

Paeonia  edulis  superba 

Biota  orientalis  conspicua 

Mignonette 

Delphinium  (annual) 

Phlox  Elizabeth  Campbell 

Thuya  plicata 

Phlox,  Miss  Lingard 
•    Heliotrope 

Shasta  Daisy 

Cryptomeria  japonica 

Ageratum 

Zinnias,  salmon  pink 

Campanula  latifolia  macrantha 

Clarkia 

Viola  lutea  splendens 

China  Asters,  pink 

Retinispora  obtusa  nana 

Ageratum 

Zinnias,  clear  yellow 

Forsythia  viridissima 

Exorchorda  grandiflora 

Hydrangea  paniculata.  late 

Phlox,  Mrs.  Jenkins 

Cryptomeria  japonica 
Iberis  sempervirens 
Scabiosa  (Pansies  along  edge) 
Papaver  orientale 
Phlox  Rheinlander 
Bio'a  orientalis  conspicua 
\iola  corntita  purpurea 


Common   Name 
Golden  Bell 
Mock  Orange 
Late  Hydrangea 
Silver-leaved  Pyramidal  Pop- 
lar 
Rock  Cress 
Daffodil 
Red  Cedar 
Pyramidal  Juniper 
Lavender  Flag 
Lilacs 

Gold  Banded  Lily 
Golden  Glow 
Larkspur 

Lavender  Blue  Hardy  Aster 
Yellow  Chrysanthemum 

Cornflower 
Peach-leaved  Bellflower 

Bluets 

Japanese  Lilies 
Foxglove 
Hardy  Ageratum 
Pyramidal  Juniper 
Chinese  Pyramidal  Juniper 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Pyramidal  Cedar 

Pyramidal  Cedar 
Pyramidal  Cedar 

California  Privet 
Yellow  Gladiolus 
Pink  Peony 
Oriental  Arborvitae 

Larkspur  . 

Pink  Phlox 

Fern-leaved  Arborvitae 
Early  White  Phlox 


Bellflower 

Tufted  Pansy 

Dwarf  Japanese  Cypress 


Golden  Bell 
Pearl  Bush 
Late  Hydrangea 
White  Phlox 

Candytuft 
Blue  Bonnet 
Oriental  Poppy 
Salmon  Pink  Phlox 
Oriental  .Arborvitae 
Tufted  Pansy 


254 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  188-Continued 


Key 

No. 

Quan. 

Var'iely 

57 

2-, 

Chrysanthemum  Thodo 

S8 

I 

Juniperus  chinensis 

59 

50 

Pink  Petunias 

60 

26 

Phlox  W.  C.  Egan 

6l 

30 

Lupinus  polyphyllus 

62 

I 

Thuya  plicata 

63 

25 

Gladiolus  America 

15 

Peeonia  Andre  Lauris 

64 

15 

Mallow  Marvels  (sow  i  pkg.  of 
Sweet  Alyssum  seed  as  cover) 

65 

6 

Buddleia  \"eitchiana 

i6 

Aquilegia  caerulea 

66 

I 

Syringa  Marie  LeGraye 

67 

I 

Syringa  Charles  X 

68 

20 

Boltonia  asteroides 

68J^ 

I 

Syringa  Josikaea 

69 

I 

Juniperus  Cannarti 

70 

I 

Syringa  Mme.  Lemoine 

71 

I 

Cornus  florida  rubra 

72 

20 

Pansies  around  edge 

25 

Paeonia  festiva  maxima 

73 

40 

Delphinium  hybridum 

74 

25 

Lilium  candidum 

75 

27 

Salpiglossis 

-6 

l8 

Dahlias,  Cactus  varieties 

77 

30 

Phlox  Frau  Anton  Buchner 

78 

17 

Hollyjiocks,  pink 

79 

50 

Narcissus  (under  shrubbery) 

50 

Viola  White  Perfection 

80 

5 

Juniperus  squamata 

-8i 

5 

Juniperus  squamata 

82 

5 

Juniperus  Sabina 

83 

5 

Juniperus  Sabina  tamaricifolia 

84 

5 

Juniperus  tripartita 

85 

5 

Taxus  canadensis 

86 

3 

Taxus  canadensis 

87 

I 

Tsuga  canadensis 

88 

15 

Berberis  Thunbergii 

89 

9 

Rhododendrons,  hybrid 

90 

I 

Rhododendrons,  hybrid 

91 

I 

Cornus  florida 

9iy2 

I 

Tsuga  Sargent's  Weeping 

92 

I 

Syringa,  named  variety 

93 

I 

Syringa,  named  variety 

94 

100 

Cerasus  rosea  pendula 

95 

Vinca  rosea  alba 

96 

50 

Dwarf  Pink  Cosmos 

Common  Name 
Pink  Chrysanthemum 
Chinese  Pyramidal  Juniper 

Hardy  Phlox 

Lupines 

Fern-leaved  Arljorvitae 
Pink  Gladiolus 
Deep  Pink  Peony 


Butterfly  Shrub 
Columbine  Blue 
Lilac.  White 
Lilac,  Red 
Starwort 
Hungarian  Lilac 
Pyramidal  Juniper 
Lilac,  White 
Pink  Dogwood 

White  Peony 
^iLarkspur 
Madonna  Lily 


Hardy  Phlox 


Tufted  Pansy 
Spreading  Juniper 
Spreading  Juniper 
Savin's  Spreading  Juniper 
Savin's  Tamarix-leaved 
Junpier 
American  Yew 
American  Yew 
Hemlock  Spruce 
Japanese  Barberry 


White  Dogwood 

Weeping  Hemlock 

Lilac 

Lilac 

Japanese  Weeping  Cherry 

White  Madagascar  Periwinkle 


PLANTING   PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


255 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN-Fig.  190 

A    good   walk    arrangement    and   planting   treatment    for    a    church    property.       Such 
properties  are  often  devoid  of  any  such  planting,  which  detracts  greatly  from  the  general 

appearance. 


Key 

No. 

Quan 

I 

i6 

2 

10 

3 

30 

4 

20 

5 

s 

6 

10 

7 

7 

13 

15 

14 

7 

IS 

7 

i6 

8 

17 

12 

i8 

6 

19 

9 

20 

3 

21 

5 

22 

7 

23 

ID 

24 

5 

25 

5 

26 

8 

27 

5 

28 

5 

29 

I 

4 

30 

8 

31 

8 

32 

I 

5 

33 

5 

34 

1 

5 

35 

I 

5 

36 

8 

37 

5 

38 

I 

3 

39 

I 

4 

40 

12 

41 

12 

42 

8 

43 

5 

44 

15 

45 

4 

46 

8 

47 

10 

48 

5 

49 

7 

50 

7 

51 

12 

52 

5 

53 

7 

54 

10 

55 

7 

56 

10 

57 

9 

58 

480 

Var  let.y 

Quercus  rubra 

Mahonia  japonica 

Leucothoe  Catesbasi 

Yucca  filamentosa 

Lonicera  Standishi 

Lonicera  Morrowi 

Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

Quercus  palustris 

Quercus  coccinea 

Juniperus  Schottii 

Azalea  amcena 

Quercus  tinctoria 

Leucothoe  Catesbasi 

Lonicera  Standishi 

Rhodotypos  kerrioides 

Aucuba  japonica,  green 

Leucothoe  Catesbaei 

Mahonia  japonica 

Mahonia  aquifolia 

Thuya  pHcata 

Taxus  canadensis 

Taxus  cuspidata 

Leucothoe  Catesbaei 

Juniperus  virginiana 

Juniperus  tamariscifolia 

Cotoneaster  horizontahs 

Biota  orientalis 

Taxus  baccata 
Juniperus  Cannarti 

Ilex  crenata 

Cotoneaster  microphylla 
Cotoneaster  microphylla 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Ilex  crenata 
Taxus  baccata 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Ilex  crenata 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Ilex  crenata 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Taxus  cuspidata 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Ilex  crenata 
Juniperus  Cannarti 
Ilex  crenata 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Mahonia  aquifolia 
Lonicera  fragrantissinia 
Leucothoe  Catesbaei 
Cotoneaster  Simonsii 
Bambusa  Metake 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Deutzia  gracilis 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Hydrangea  p.  g. 
Hibiscus,  single  pink 
Hydrangea  arborescens  g.  a. 
Hibiscus,  single  pink 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Cotoneaster  Simonsii 
Ligustrum  ovalifolium 
Ulmus  Americana 


Common  Name 
Red  Oak 

Japanese  Mahonia 
Drooping  Andromeda 
Adam's  Needle 
Standish's  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 
White  Kerria 
Pin  Oak 
Scarlet  Oak 
Schott's  Juniper 
Hardy  Evergreen  .\zalea 
Black  Oak 
Catesby's  Leucothoe 
Standish's  Bush  Honeysuckle 
White  Kerria 
Japanese  Laurel 
Catesby's  Leucothoe 
Japanese  Mahonia 
Oregon  Barberry 
Fern-leaved  Arborvitae 
Canadian  Yew 
Japanese  Yew 
Catesby's  Leucothoe 
Red  Cedar 

Tamarix-leaved  Juniper 
Prostrate  Cotoneaster 
Oriental  Arborvitae 
English  Yew 
Pyramidal  Juniper 
Japanese  Holly 
Small-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Small-leaved  Cotoneaster 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Japanese  Holly 
English  Yew- 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Japanese  Holly 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Japanese  Holly 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Japanese  Yew 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Japanese  Holly 
Pyramidal  Cedar 
Japanese  Holly 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Oregon  Barberry 
Fragrant  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Catesby's  Leucothoe 
Shining-leaved  Rose  Box 
Japanese  Cane 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Dark  Red  Weigela 
Slender  Deutzia 
Japanese  Bush  Honeysuckle 
Large-flowered  Hydrangea 
Rose  of  Sharon 
"  Hills  of  Snow  " 
Rose  of  Sharon 
Regel's  Priv-et 
Shining-leaved  Rose  Box 
California  Privet 
American  Elm 


256 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE  GARDENING 


PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


257 


No. 
60 

61 
62 
63 
64 
6s 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 
72 
73 
74 
75 
76 
77 
78 
79 
80 


83 

84 
85 
86 
87 
88 
89 
90 
91 
92 
93 
94 
95 
96 
97 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  190-Continued 


Variety 
Cerasus  avium  fl.  pi. 

Salisburia  adiantifolia 

Salisburia  adiantifolia 

Quercus  rubra 

Acer  saccharum 

Crataegus  Oxycantha,  pinlc 

Retinispora  obtusa  nana 

Biota  orientalis  compacta 

Cedrus  Libani 

Salisburia  adiantifolia 

Taxus  baccata 

Buxus  arborescens  pyramidalis 

Larix  europsea 

Buxus  arborescens  pyramidalis 

Taxus  baccata 

Juniperus  virginiana 

Buxus  arborescens  pyramidalis 

Larix  europaea 

Berberis  Thunbergii 

Fagus  Riversi 

Yucca  filamentosa 

Ligustrum  Regelianum 

Spiraea  A.  Waterer 

Rliododendron     Mrs.    J. 

Glutton 
Rhododendron  Charles  Dicken  s 
Rhododendron  Album  elegans 
Rhododendron  Charles  Dickens 
Rhododendron  roseum  elegans 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Acer  platanoides  Schwedleri 
Salisburia  adiantifolia 
Liquidambar  styraciflua 
Cornus  florida  rubra 
Caryopteris  mastacanthus 
Pliiladelphus  Lemoinei 
Ligustrum  Regelianum 
Berberis  Thunbergii 


Common  Name 

European      Double-flowered 

Cherry- 
Maidenhair     Tree     (Ginkgo) 
Maidenhair     Tree     (Ginkgo) 
Red  Oak 
Silver  Maple 
May  Thorn 
Japanese  Cypress 
Compact  Oriental  Arborvitae 
Cedar  of  Lebanon 
Maidenhair     Tree     (Ginkgo) 
Englisli  Yew 
Pyramidal  Box 
European  Larch 
Pyramidal  Box 
English  Yew 
Red  Cedar 
Pyramidal  Box 
European  Larch 
Thunberg's  Barberry 
River's  Purple  Beech 
Adams'  Needle 
Regel's  Privet 
Dwarf  Pink  Spiraea 

Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Regel's  Privet 
Thunberg's  Barberry 
St.  John's  Wort 
Schwedler's  Purple  Maple 
Maidenhair  Tree  (Ginkgo) 
Sweet  Gum 
Pink  Dog\vood 
Verbena  Shrub 
Lemoine's  Monkshood 
Regel's  Privet 
Japanese  Barberry 


258 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


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PLANTING 
PLAN 
Fig.  187 


260 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE    GARDENING 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  185 


Key 

No. 

Quan. 

I 

20 

2 

5 

3 

15 

4 

2 

5 

15 

6 

6 

7 

20 

8 

5 

9 

4 

10 

4 

II 

6 

12 

2 

13 

5 

14 

5 

15 

7 

i6 

5 

17 

10 

23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 

33 

34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 


Variety 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Azalea  indica  alba 
Rhododendron  hybrids 
Buxus  arborescens  (untrimmed) 
Rhododendron  hybrids 
Azalea  indica  alba 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Hydrangea  paniculata 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Azalea  Hinodegiri 
Tilia  dasystyla 
Hibiscus,  single  pink 
Hydrangea  arborescens  grandiflora  alba 
Spiraea  arguta 
Philadelphus  Lemoinei 
Rosa  Baby  Rambler 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Deutzia  gracilis 
Hydrangea  paniculata 
Mahonia  aquifolia 
Pachysandra  terminalis 
Hypericum  Moserianum 
Stephanandra  flexuosa 
Hydrangea  paniculata,  early 
Weigela  Eva  Rathke 
Buddleia  Veitchii 
Spiraea  Thunbergii 
Spiraea  callosa  alba 
N'iburnum  plicatum 
Desmodium  penduliflorum 
Abelia  grandiflora 
Lonicera  Morrowi 
Azalea  indica  alba 
Vinca  minor 
Annuals  and  Bulbs 
Buxus  suffruticosa 
Acer  polymorphum  ampelopsilobum 
Cotoneaster  horizontalis 


Common  Name 
St.  John's  Wort 
Hardy  White  Azalea 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Old-fashioned  Box 
Hybrid  Rhododendron 
Hardy  White  Azalea 
St.  John's  Wort 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
Late  Hydrangea 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Evergreen  Azalea 
Crimean  Linden 
Rose  of  Sharon 
Everblooming  Hydrangea 
Hybrid  Spiraea 
Mock  Orange 
Baby  Rambler  Rose 
Dark  Red  Weigela 
Slender  Deutzia 
Late  Hydrangea 
Holly-leaved  Barberry 
Pachysandra 
St.  John's  Wort 
Stephanandra 
Hydrangea 
Dark  Red  Weigela 
Butterfly  Plant 
Snow  Garland 
Dwarf  White  Spiraea 
Japanese  Snowball 
Bush  Clover 
Hybrid  Abelia 
Bush  Honeysuckle 
White  Azalea 
Periwinkle 

Dwarf  Box 
Japanese  Maple 
Trailing  Rose  Box 


PLANTING   PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


261 


PLANTING  PLAN.— Fig.  185 


Fig.  185. — Good  arrangement  for  a  straight,  box-bordered  approach  to  school,  hospital  or 

institutional  building 


262 


PRACTICAL    LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


or     c-    >^     1_    E=- 


PLANTING  PLAN.— Fig.  1  89 


PLANTING    PLANS   AND    KEYS   THERETO 


263 


KEY  TO  PLANTING  PLAN.-Fig.  189 

Treatment  to  provide  a  picturesque  setting  for  a  public  monument.     The  appearance  of 
many  such  features  would  be  enhanced  by  a  somewhat  similar  planting  arrangement 


Key 

No. 

Quan 

I 

25 

2 

5 

3 

3 

4 

5 

5 
6 

5 
S 

1.5 

7 

14 

30 

I.S 

4 

It> 

I6 

I  7 

40 

I8 

4 

19 

2 

Variety 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
.A.belia  grandiflora 
Viburnum  molle 
.\belia  grandiflora 
V^iburnum  molle 
.■\belia  grandiflora 
Viburnum  molle 
.•\belia  grandiflora 
Viburnum  molle 
.\belia  grandiflora 
Cerasus  Laurocerasus 
Juniperus  virginiana 
Biota  orientalis  compacta 
Yucca  filamentosa 
Ilex  crenata 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Berberis  Thunbergii 
Buxus  pyramidalis 
Ulmus  americana 


Common    Same 
Japanese  Barberry 
Hybrid  .\belia 
Viburnum 
Hybrid  .\belia 
V'iburnum 
Hybrid  .\belia 
Viburnum 
Hybrid  .\belia 
Viburnum 
Hybrid  .Abelia 
English  Laurel 
Red  Cedar 
Chinese  .Arborvitae 
Adams'  Needle 
Japense  Holly 
Japanese  Barberry 
Japanese  Barberry 
Pyramid  Box 
.•\merican  Elm 


264  PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 


GLOSSARY  OF  TECHNICAL  TERMS 

Axis — A  line  actually  drawn  and  used  as  the  basis  of  measurement. 

Bar  Sand — Seashore  sand. 

Batter  (or  break  back) — A  term  used  to  signify  a  wall  or  other  material  which 
does  not  stand  upright  but  inclines  from  you  when  you  stand  before  it. 

Breaker  Dust — The  finest  material  from  the  stone  crusher. 

Broad   Mortar  Joint — Mortar  joint   from   one-half  to  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  brick,  and  from  one  to  two  inches  in  stone  work. 

Cheek  Block:     Cheek  Walls — The  walls  at  the  ends  of  steps,  into  which  the 
steps  are  built. 

Forebay — A  small  reservoir  or  receiving  basin  at  the  head  of  a  pipe  leading 
to  a  ram  or  pump. 

Laid  Quarry  Face  (Stone) — The  natural  rock  face  of  the  stone  as  taken  from 
the  quarry. 

Napping  Hammer — Long-handled  hammer  used  in  breaking  stone,  weighing 
four  to  six  pounds. 

Neat  Width — Exact  width. 

Ramp — A  concavity  in  a  wall  or  railing  rising  from  a  lower  to  a  higher  level, 
or  descending  from  a  higher  to  a  lower  level. 

Reveal  Joint — Unpointed  joints  between  the  stones  forming  a  wall,  the  mortar 
being  raked  out  with  a  small  tool  from  two  to  three  inches  deep. 

Row-lock  Fashion — Brick  laid  on  edge  as  a  coping  or  cover  on  top  of  a  wall. 

Rubble  Gutter  and  Curb — Undressed  stone  from  the  field  or  quarry,  laid  at 
random. 

Scotched  Wall — Stone  set  on  edge;   that  is,  the  narrow  way  up,  and  one  stone 
rising  above  the  other  alternately. 

Splint  Spawls — The  small  stone  resulting  from  dressing  stone  at  the  quarry; 
pieces  which  are  too  small  for  building  purposes. 

Template — A  mould  used  for  forming  or  setting  work. 


265 


INDEX  TO  CONTENTS 


Annuals:  Page 

For  the  Garden 162 

In  the  Border 211 

Approaches.  Arrangement  of 29 

Approaches.  Cement 59 

Arches.  Rose,  over  Walks 204 

Architectural  Features  of  the  Garden.  .171- 

194 

Autumn  Bulbs  in  the  Border 210 

Background  for  the  House 79 

Background.  Garden 133 

Base  Plantings 84,  85 

Basins.  Catch 62 

Connecting  with  Drainage  Lines 63 

Gratings 63 

Beds: 

Garden 150,   156 

Turf  Edge  for 197 

Preparation  of 198 

Rose 213 

In  the  Wild  Garden 222 

Bird  Baths 172 

Bituminous  Roads 58 

Border  Plantings 102 

Borders: 

Used  in  Path  Construction 156 

Hardy 197 

Along  a  Fence 198 

In  \'egetable  Garden 198 

Width  of 198 

Arrangement  of  Plants  in 200 

Background  for 204 

Rose  Chains  in 204 

Bulbs  and  Tubers  in 205 

Spring  Bulbs  in 205 

Summer  Flowering  Bulbs  in 205 

Autumn  Bulbs  in 210 

Annuals  in 211 

Boundary  Plantings lOi 

Brick  Gutters 62 

Brick  Walks 51,  55,   155 

Brick  Walls 140 

Bulbs  and  Tubers  in  Hardy  Borders.  .  .205 

Bulbs  for  the  Garden 162 

Catch  Basins 62 

Connecting  with  Drainage  Lines 63 

Gratings 63 

Cement  Approaches 59 

Driveways 57 

Gutters 61 

Surfacing 59 

Walks 47 

Classification  of  Gardens 123 

Climbing  Roses  in  the  Garden 219 

Coping  for  Garden  Walls 140 

For  Pools 173 

Dimensions  and  Design.  Garden 124 

Drives.  Walks  and  Entrances.  Arrange- 
ment of 29-  46 

Drives,  Walks  and  Roads,  Construction 

of 47-  63 

Drv  Stone  Walls 144 

Dutch  Tile  Walks 55 

Enclosures,  Graden 133,   138 

Enclosures,  Planting  Around  Garden.  .  .  163 

Entrance,  Garden 124 

Entrances.  Walks  and  Drives,  Arrange- 
ment of 29-40 


Evergreens:  Page 

For  Base  Plantings 85 

For  Border  Plantings 102 

For  the  Garden 162 

For  Rock  Gardens 230 

Exposure  for  the  House 10 

Farm,  Ornamental  Planting  on  the.  .  .  .10& 

Fish  for  Pools 179 

Flagstone  Walks 48,   155 

Floral  Treatment  of  the  Garden 159 

Flower  Garden,  The 123-170 

Fountains  and  Pools 172 

Garden: 

Architectural  Features  of  the.  .  .  .  1 71-194 

Background 133 

Beds 150,   156 

Dimensions  and  Design 124 

Enclosures 133,   138,   163 

Entrance 124 

Features,  Wooden.  Color  of 194 

Floral  Treatment  of 159 

Flower 123-170 

Houses 181 

Seats 181 

Steps 149,  227 

^Valks 150,   15s,   156 

Walls 138 

Gardens- 

Classification  of 123 

Rock 223-230 

Wild 221 

Glossary  of  Technical  Words 264 

Grading  Lawns 68 

Grading  Plan,  The 15,   18 

Grass  Seeds 74 

Gratings,  for  Catch  Basins 63 

Grave!  Walks 48,   155 

Gutters: 

Cement,  Rubble 61 

Brick,  Sod 62 

Hardy  Borders 197-21 1 

Hardy  Shrubs  for  the  Garden 162 

Heathers,  The,  in  Rock  Gardens 230 

Hedges 144 

House: 

Locating  the 19 

Exposure  for ig 

Background  for  the 79 

Trees  for  Framing  the 80 

Houses.  Garden 181 

Humus  for  Garden  Beds 159 

Insect  Pests  Attacking  Trees  and  Shrubs. 122 
Lawn  Trees: 

Specimen 93 

Groupings 94 

Lawns: 

Grading.  Construction  and  LTpkeep.6s-  77 

Preliminary  Preparations 65 

Lawns  ascending  from  Highways 67 

Lawns  descending  from  Highways..  . .   67 

Sub-grade 67 

Underdrainage 68 

Grading 68 

Larger  .\reas 68 

House  Below  Pavement  Grade 69 

Terraces 70 

Lawn  Making 71 


266 


PRACTICAL   LANDSCAPE   GARDENING 
INDEX  TO  CONTENTS-Continued 


Lawns — Continued  Pai;e 

Sodding 74 

Seeding 74 

Grass  Seeds 74 

Locating  tlie  House 19 

Macadam  (VVaterbound)  Driveways...  .    57 

Macadam  Walks 48 

Moving  Trees IIO 

Ornamental  Planting  on  the  Farm 106 

Ornamental     Planting     of     Trees     and 

Shrubs 79-122 

Perennial  Borders 197 

Perennials: 

For  the  Garden 150 

Time  to  Plant 198 

Summer  Care  of 200 

Pergolas 188-193 

Piers 1 49 

Plan,  Grading 15,   18 

Plan,  Planting 18 

Planning,  Importance  of  Careful 9 

Planting  Plan,  The 18 

Plantings: 

Base 84,  8s 

.   Boundary loi 

Border 102 

Ornamental,  on  the  Farm 106 

Plants  for  Garden  Pools 179 

Pools: 

Depth 172 

Construction 173 

Coping 173 

Water  Supply  and  Drainage 178 

Fountain  Heads 178 

Plants  Near  and  in 179 

Fish  in 1 79 

Pruning  Trees 115 

Retaining  Walls 146 

Roads,  Drives  and  Walks,  Construction 

of 47-63 

Rock  Gardens: 

Garden  Location 223 

Placing  of  Rocks 223 

Soil 224 

Arrangement  of  Plants 224 

Importance  of  Moisture 225 

Garden  Steps  with  Pockets  for  Plants. 227 

Time  of  Planting 229 

Shrubs  and  Fvergreens  in 230 

Heathers  in 230 

Root  Pruning  of  Trees 120 

Rose  .\rches  over  Walks 204 

Rose  Gardens 211 

Designs 213 

Position 213 

Beds 213 

Planting  and  Care 216 

Varieties 216 

Climbing  Roses .  .216 

Rubble  Gutters 61 

Sandstone  Walls 138 

Seats,  Garden 181 

Seeding  Lawns 74 

Shrubs  and   Trees,   Ornamental    Plant- 
ing of 79-122 

Shrubs,  Hardy,  for  the  Garden 162 

Shrubs  in  Rock  Gardens 230 

Slate  Walks 155 

Sodding 74 

Sod  Gutters 62 

Soil  for  Rock  Gardens 224 


Specimen  Trees:  Page 

Lawn 93,  94 

In  Front  of  Border  Plantings 106 

Stepping  Stone  Walks 54,   155 

Steps,  Garden 149,  227 

Stone  Walls,  Dry 144 

Stucco  Walls 143 

Summer  Flowering  Bulbs  in  Borders.  .  .205 

Sundials 171 

Surfacing,  Cement 59 

Swimming  Pools 170 

Tanbark  Walks 156 

Terrace  Walks 54 

Terraces 70 

Tile  Walks 55 

Tree  Moving 119 

Tree  Planting 115 

With  Dynamite 119 

Trees  and  Shrubs,  Ornamental  Planting 

of 79-122 

Background  for  the  House 79 

Framing  the  House 80 

Base  Plantings 84,  85 

Unity  in  Lawn  Planting 91 

Planting  for  Detail 91 

Trees  for  Driveways 93 

Specimen  Lawn  Trees 93 

Lawn  Groupings 94 

Planting  in  Lawn  Depressions loi 

Planting  in  X'alleys loi 

Boundary  Plantings lOl 

Variety  in  Border  Planting 162 

Edging  the  Border  Plantings 102 

Evergreens  in  Border  Plantings 102 

Specimen   Trees   in   Front   of   Border 

Plantings 106 

Ornamental  Planting  on  the  Farm...  .106 

Tree  Planting 115 

Pruning 115 

Tree  Planting  with  Dynamite 119 

Moving  Large  Trees 119 

Root  Pruning 120 

Care  of  Trees  and  Shrubs 1 20 

Insect  Pests 122 

Turf  Edge  for  Beds 197 

Turf  Walks 155 

Underdrainage  for  Lawns 68 

Valleys,  Planting  in loi 

Vegetable  Garden,  Borders  in 198 

Walks,  Dri  .es  and  Entrances,  Arrange- 
ment of 29-  46 

Walks,  Drives  and  Roads,  Construction 

of 47-63 

Walks: 

Garden 150,  155.  156 

In  Wild  Gardens 222 

Walls: 

Garden 138 

Sandstone 138 

Coping  for 140 

Brick 140 

Stucco 143 

Dry  Stone 144 

Retaining 146 

Water: 

In  the  Garden 170 

For  Swimming  Pools 180 

Waterbound  Macadam  Driveways 57 

Wild  Gardens 221 

Walks  in 222 

Beds  in 222 

Planting  in 222 

Flowers  in 222 

Wooden  Garden  Features,  Color  of 194 


n. 


